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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi there, my recently purchased 1999 9-3 base (184,000 kms, sadly not using synthetic oil at the moment, secound time filling up with premium gas, not inspected yet (well kal tire said I had a dirty air filter and some oil is leaking) has problems starting in the mornings now that it is starting to get colder. I start it up and it quietly stalls in about 3 secounds. If I wait awhile it'll start up and even late at night. Ive noticed a good deal of other forums where 9-5s and some 1999 9-3s have this same problem. I tried leaving it in the on position for about 5 secounds (to prime the fuel pump) one time and it didn't work. I hear that the throttle body has to be cleaned or the fuel pump needs to be replaced. What would be the best thing to do without spending any money? And if that fails what would be best for when I take it in to my indy? Thanks!
 

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At that mileage the fuel pump is really due so I'm not surprised that it could fail.
Possible suspects

1-- The CPS (Crank Position sensor) also dies at around that mileage you need to mesure ther resistance it should be around 650 +-50 Ohms IIRC.

2-- The fuel pump may be bad like you said or the fuel pump relay could have cracks on the soldering points (common problem with high mileage cars.)

3-- Other suspect would be the Direct Ignition Cassette (AKA the DIC).

4-- Another suspect would be the IAC (Idle Air Control) It just need cleaning as it may be sticking.

5-- You may have an unplugged or cracked vacuum hose. Do you have a Check Engine Light?

6-- Did that happen just after the fillup?????

If so, you may have
1-- a sticking purge Valve to diagnose that just unplug the harness going to that valve (in the wheel cage on the passenger side) the car would go back to normal. You'll see the CEL (Check Engine Light) come on but that is normal as this part is an emission controle component it's not dangerous for the car to run like that but it's bad for the environment though so you need to take it off and service it (repairable and serviceable item thank God).

2-- One of the 2 Evap hoses is cracked or unplugged


I hope this helps :cheesy:
 

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Seems as if this automobile is in need of the complete service...Plus, the throttle body probably needs to be cleaned.

You may or may not have the IAC, at the turn of the century, this was replaced by a more comprehensive throttle body..
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks allot for your response Hkayssi! The last owner said the DIC was just recently put in (I havent check the exact date on the module itself yet) and there is no "check engine" lights on. Yeah I have a feeling im going to have to have the fuel pump replaced, o well. Thanks!

O and it happened more than a few days after filling up
 

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earthworm said:
Seems as if this automobile is in need of the complete service...Plus, the throttle body probably needs to be cleaned.

You may or may not have the IAC, at the turn of the century, this was replaced by a more comprehensive throttle body..
I think the IAC was part of all T5 engines but was integrated in the TB on the T7s. The year 99 was confusing as the T7 was introduced but I think all the cars from 99 except the Viggen had the IAC as they were all T5 equipped. The eception was the Viggen that had the first T7 on a 9-3.
 

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Mateo said:
Thanks allot for your response Hkayssi! The last owner said the DIC was just recently put in (I havent check the exact date on the module itself yet) and there is no "check engine" lights on. Yeah I have a feeling im going to have to have the fuel pump replaced, o well. Thanks!

O and it happened more than a few days after filling up
Don assume a thing and do the extensive testing procedure first.

You'll be very mad if you replace the pump only to find out it was the CPS! ;)

Are you going to do the repair yourself?

BTW, I don't believe what POs say. Their moemory is sometimes fuzzy wrong. Was the unit replaced with a brand new DIC or used? if used well.....It's as old as any other unit!
If he replaced it with a new one, when was that (mileage wise)?

Since it's several days after fillup discount the 6th possibility regarding the purge valve.
 

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earthworm said:
Seems as if this automobile is in need of the complete service...Plus, the throttle body probably needs to be cleaned.

You may or may not have the IAC, at the turn of the century, this was replaced by a more comprehensive throttle body..
Would a dirty throttle body be responsible for a "sticky" accelerator pedal, or is that just the cable needing to be lubed?
 

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hkayssi said:
2-- One of the 2 Evap hoses is cracked or unplugged
Where are the two evap hoses? I have the same problem Mateo has, and sure enough, I have a CEL indicating an evap leak. Are they by any chance located to the right-rear of the car, near the fuel filter? Because I can smell fuel sometimes in that area.
 

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huh? On the list number 5, Does an unplugged or cracked vaccum hose make CEL on??? I didn't know that. I thought only O2 malfunction triggers CEL. geez..Learning something everyday...



hkayssi said:
At that mileage the fuel pump is really due so I'm not surprised that it could fail.
Possible suspects

1-- The CPS (Crank Position sensor) also dies at around that mileage you need to mesure ther resistance it should be around 650 +-50 Ohms IIRC.

2-- The fuel pump may be bad like you said or the fuel pump relay could have cracks on the soldering points (common problem with high mileage cars.)

3-- Other suspect would be the Direct Ignition Cassette (AKA the DIC).

4-- Another suspect would be the IAC (Idle Air Control) It just need cleaning as it may be sticking.

5-- You may have an unplugged or cracked vacuum hose. Do you have a Check Engine Light?

6-- Did that happen just after the fillup?????

If so, you may have
1-- a sticking purge Valve to diagnose that just unplug the harness going to that valve (in the wheel cage on the passenger side) the car would go back to normal. You'll see the CEL (Check Engine Light) come on but that is normal as this part is an emission controle component it's not dangerous for the car to run like that but it's bad for the environment though so you need to take it off and service it (repairable and serviceable item thank God).

2-- One of the 2 Evap hoses is cracked or unplugged


I hope this helps :cheesy:
 

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cachaa said:
Would a dirty throttle body be responsible for a "sticky" accelerator pedal, or is that just the cable needing to be lubed?
Examine the throttle plate, this area must be clean enough for the throttle to operate freely.
But, IMO, it is more likely that the accelerator cable is overly dry and hanging up in its sheaving. This is "lifetime lubed"(or nor friction reducers at all are used) by the manufacturer, meaning that it may last 50K miles or 200K , depending:cheesy: ..
I believe it may well be possible to stretch its life and improve the performance by forcing some graphite inside the cable..
 

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suniku55 said:
huh? On the list number 5, Does an unplugged or cracked vaccum hose make CEL on??? I didn't know that. I thought only O2 malfunction triggers CEL. geez..Learning something everyday...
Any component that has anything to do with the emissions system can trigger a CEL if it goes bad and yes an unplugged or cracked vacuum hose could trigger a CEL. The O2 sensor is but 1 possible culperit. Otherwise no need to read the code with a Tech II device. The cause of the CEL would be obvious and no need to read it.
 

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earthworm said:
Examine the throttle plate, this area must be clean enough for the throttle to operate freely.
But, IMO, it is more likely that the accelerator cable is overly dry and hanging up in its sheaving. This is "lifetime lubed"(or nor friction reducers at all are used) by the manufacturer, meaning that it may last 50K miles or 200K , depending:cheesy: ..
I believe it may well be possible to stretch its life and improve the performance by forcing some graphite inside the cable..
Is that just as simple as trying to get some graphite down into the cable where it exits into the engine compartment?
 

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cachaa said:
Would a dirty throttle body be responsible for a "sticky" accelerator pedal, or is that just the cable needing to be lubed?
Crud on the inside of the TB will NOT make the cable "stick". What will happen is that the cable will continue to move, but the throttle plate may not close all the way, allowing too much air in at idle, and cause a stall.

Earthworm has one possible cause, another one is a metal bushing (a.k.a. sleeve bearing) at the throttle arm, which was defective on some early cars. There was a Saab recall for that. Even on later cars like my '96, the bushing may need some cleaning and lube to make sure the arm moves freely. (the arm is the plastic part that the cable attaches to)

Mateo said:
...I start it up and it quietly stalls in about 3 seconds. If I wait awhile it'll start up and even late at night...
If you can start it up after some time goes by, and without any other steps (like banging on the fuel tank to nudge the fuel pump motor) it is NOT a typical symptom of a bad fuel pump.

Btw, the fuel pump does not "prime" just because the ingnition is in the ON position. Power to the fuel pump is applied only after the ECU detects a signal from the CPS to tell it that the engine is in fact turning over.

The IAC (idle air control valve) comes into play when the engine is idling. So, to rule that out, one could pay attention to whether the problem happens at idle, like at a stop light, or while driving. However, if you have an IAC, after 8 years it should be cleaned, especially with cold weather coming on.

If the CPS starts to fail, the usual first symptom is that the car will not re-start when the engine is warm, or will not start at all. A bad signal from the CPS will prevent the CPU from turning on the fuel pump. Once the engine is running, the engine timing uses signals from the DIC, not the CPS, to calculate ignition timing.

The different vacuum hoses, evap canister purge lines and valve, etc. would my first suspects, and also least expensive to replace. To exclude the purge valve, you can unplug it temporarily. Unplugged, the purge valve should be in the closed position. This will cause a CEL and an evap code after some number of starts, but it can be reset easily.

Good luck!
 

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cachaa said:
Is that just as simple as trying to get some graphite down into the cable where it exits into the engine compartment?
I do not think so; completely remove the cable and examine it, the wire or wires must fall freely when the assembly is held vertically.
The graphite should assure this and limit the wear.
I did this same operation on the emergency brake cables; this took hours, but my time was free..Three years later, the hand brake still works well.
 
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