[nphobb01]

My 99 95 with 2.3t/auto keeps stalling. It only does it when braking hard right after hard acceleration. I had the turbo and all of the tubes that regulate the turbo replaced. What do I need to try next?

 

[Chris 9-5]

Stalling..............ok some ideas:

1. Vacuum pipes, (one split or off)
2. Crankshaft position sensor (getting more common now!)
3. Badly split Dump Valve diaphram

or perhaps:


4. Fuel pressure????
5. Injectors????
6. throttle Body????

 

[Kermit]

Have you checked all the black rubber vacuum pipes in the engine bay? They are prone to perishing/tearing and cause stalling problems, most of use have replaced the standard rubber pipes with silicon pipes. Another common cause of stalling problems, is a dirty throttle body (clean carefully with rag and carb cleaner) or the dreaded CPS (crankshaft position sensor).

 

[bloodmire]

It sounds like yr crankshaft sensor. Had the same problem about a week ago. Was driving nad the car would "jerk" while running. Eventually it wouldnt start...or start randomly.

Sadly the engine would die on me while in traffic. My mech ran the tests and replaced the sensor ($361 = 266 labor + 65 parts). Car runs fine now.

Verdict - Very disappointed with Saab so far. My honda has run 76k miles and I've NEVER had any funky problems.

 

[Chris 9-5]

My mech ran the tests and replaced the sensor ($361 = 266 labor + 65 parts). Car runs fine now.

Verdict - Very disappointed with Saab so far. My honda has run 76k miles and I've NEVER had any funky problems.

I'd be dissapointed with your mechanic too, its a $50-70 part and is an easy DIY job :roll:

 

[nphobb01]

If what happened to your car was the crank sensor, I don't belive that is it. It only dies when braking very hard after hard acceleration. It also fires right up, usually as I coast into the parking lot at work . How many vacuum lines are there in the bay? I got a package of silicon lines today to replace some of them, and the diaghram is on the way.

 

[bloodmire]

I'd be dissapointed with your mechanic too, its a $50-70 part and is an easy DIY job :roll:

As one of my earlier posts stated....i dont know s*** about cars :cheesy:

speaking of which, how would i be able to tell whats wrong with the car? i dont have a tech2 (or do you guys use something else)?

 

[Kermit]

As one of my earlier posts stated....i dont know s*** about cars :cheesy:

speaking of which, how would i be able to tell whats wrong with the car? i dont have a tech2 (or do you guys use something else)?

Most of our diagnosis are based on people's past experience and our own ownership. Tech II tends to be only at main dealers/good indy's, its Saabs own diagnostic/programming tool.....its about £3500 to buy one.
If you have a problem we can point you in the right direction, and also give you a clue as to a sensible price to pay. That way you don't get ripped off. :evil:

 

[nphobb01]

Have I told you how much I love my car? Ten bucks worth of silicone tubing and it runs like a top. Anyone else out there with 95s near 100k, check your vacuum lines, half of mine looked to be disentegrated. Unfortunately, the only color I could find on short notice was red, so my engine looks somewhat like a ricer now. Only took about 30min to replace most of the lines, at least the ones that had any wear at all. I also love my mechanic, he does not charge to hook up your car to a computer and see what's wrong. Last time I took it in there were three probs, only cost $100 usd, I love that guy.

 

[Kermit]

Check posts 2 & 3... first suggestion by both Chris and myself, vacuum tubing. Strike 1 to the mods.

 

[Chris 9-5]

Check posts 2 & 3... first suggestion by both Chris and myself, vacuum tubing. Strike 1 to the mods.

And..................

Both posted at the same time

And..................

Within ten mins of the question being asked

All forums should be like this

 

[nphobb01]

Do you all generally use some type of a plastic zip tie or something on the end of the silicon tubes? Driving today and the check engine light came on, two of the new lines had popped off. Can the check engine light be reset w/o actually hooking up to a computer? Thank you for all of your help, you all are great.

 

[Chris 9-5]

You can use a cable tie (zip tie) type if the pipe doesnt fit snuggly, mine havent come off though

To reset the CEL pull fuse 17 or disconnect the battery for a while

 

[nphobb01]

It could be that I used a cheap silicon tubing. They don't seem to be holding their shape all that well when hot either. I may have to go to another store and spend a little more money to get a higher quality hose. I went ahead and put cable ties on all of the new lines anyhow.

 

[nphobb01]

Sorry to double post. I'm assuming the car is in limp home mode from the hoses blowing off, resulting in the check engine light being on. Will pulling the fuse or unhooking the battery correct the limp home mode also, or just clear the check engine light?

 

[xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxFinn]

2004 95 Limp mode reset

 

[Chris 9-5]

If the car is driving like a tank running on one cylinder with a flat tyre its in limp home, and no you need a manual reset as Finn posted, if its just the CEL then the fuse/battery will do it!

I got my tubing here:

http://www.partsforsaabs.com/product_info.php?products_id=1130

 

[nphobb01]

I tried doing the manual reset for limp home mode, but there must have been a change between my 99 and the 2004 being done in the post. There were the two wheels as described, the back one with the ridges was not moving with the other when the pedal was pushed, and according to the article it was supposed to rotate also if the car was in LH mode. I guess it was not in LH mode after all, I just went for a spin and it ran pretty good. thanks for all of your help, I was nearly ready to dump my car into a hole and burn it after beating it with a hammer, then I found this site and a good mechanic, all good now.

 

[Kermit]

The OE Saab tubing is 3.5mm, getting silicon in this size is damn near impossible, 4mm seems to hold just fine unless you're running v.high boost, in which case a cable/zip tie will make sure it doesn't blow off.

 

[bloodmire]

Most of our diagnosis are based on people's past experience and our own ownership. Tech II tends to be only at main dealers/good indy's, its Saabs own diagnostic/programming tool.....its about £3500 to buy one.
If you have a problem we can point you in the right direction, and also give you a clue as to a sensible price to pay. That way you don't get ripped off. :evil:

Point well taken Kermit. Obviously you guys know what yr doing. Will post here first next time.