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slspf2 said:
yes it would be a complete overhaul (not bad price wise). but i was saying earlier that I wanted to see what it was all about considering I have spoken to very few on the forum here who have done the procedure, or talked about doing it. I don't know about the 2002... but I have a 2000 and am pretty sure it's mechanical.
The 94-97 models used a mechanical clutch assembly, with a cable pulling a lever that moved the throwout bearing.

98+ models went back to a hydraulic clutch with a pedal-mounted master and integral hydraulic slave throout bearing....

If you have a coiled hydraulic line leading into the top of the tranny, you have the later model...

I converted my 97 from mechanical to hydraulic during one of the times I had the engine out and it was a nasty job -- lots of arching your body under the dash to scrape, drill, file, etc. -- but not as bad as a 9-5 alternator replacement. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
My 2002 is definetely hydraulic, I have had 2 mechanical NG900's and there is a huge difference.
 

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As far As I can tell, ACT has no saab clutch. you'd have to fish around and check part#'s to see if another car uses the same pressure plate...

cavalier 2.2L?
cobalt? cadillac something??
opel/vauxhall/solstice/sky?
 

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mike saunders said:
The 94-97 models used a mechanical clutch assembly, with a cable pulling a lever that moved the throwout bearing.

98+ models went back to a hydraulic clutch with a pedal-mounted master and integral hydraulic slave throout bearing....

If you have a coiled hydraulic line leading into the top of the tranny, you have the later model...

I converted my 97 from mechanical to hydraulic during one of the times I had the engine out and it was a nasty job -- lots of arching your body under the dash to scrape, drill, file, etc. -- but not as bad as a 9-5 alternator replacement. ;)
Ah, well thats good to know. Is hydraulic like the king of clutch assemblies or is there another type that is superior to it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
There are either mechanical or hydrualic actuated in our cars, hydraulic is smoother and and has a lighter pedal feel.

I ended up ordering the Viggen clutch after weighing my options. I figure, I will be in another car by the time this one fails.
 

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It really depends on the application and preference. However, hydraulic is definitely going to cost more to replace key components, if the situation should arise. Modern cars still use cable(mechanical-based) systems, while many will use hydraulic. I believe the 9-3 Sport Sedan uses a cable system? I thought I heard this somewhere, which made me realize that hydraulic may not always be superior. Or it could just be GM being big-nosed.
 

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Bigsky said:
I was weighing the Viggen or the Spec, but there was a guy on SC a few weeks back with a horror story about the Spec. He basically mutilated a Spec disk with little mileage 5-10K. If the Viggen can hold 300 hp I'll go that route, but if I need or should have the Spec I'm not against spending the additional money.
ya that was me, a stage 2 spec clutch didnt hold up to a stage 4 tune. i now have the spec stage 3+ which i was told in writting by spec that it will hold well over 400whp, so we shall see how it goes.
 

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Even the stock Viggen clutch will hold well over 300 whp...if it's not abused ;)
 

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mike saunders said:
Even the stock Viggen clutch will hold well over 300 whp...if it's not abused ;)
but what fun is it if you dont bang through the gears every now and then.

just dont get a stage 2...






this is what i got now, not so good for every day driving with the girlfriend.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
That's some clutch carnage! I think I made a wise choice with the Viggen, my wife still drives my car occasionally.
 

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Does anyone know these pressure-plate.. pressures?
The viggen "R" plate I have(from GS) feels like a 23-2400-ish lb plate...

Is the spec PP really that much stronger?
 

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mike saunders said:
I ran the Viggen PP and Viggen disc combo for almost three years, the last 18 months with 390+ ft/lbs of torque...

The main difference with a SPEC/Centerforce/Sachs Racing clutch is that they're made to hold higher force for longer, and will likely last longer than the combo I used. But the Viggen combo WILL hold that level of torque....it just won't like 2,800 RPM launches for as long as the other ones. ;)

After almost three years, I still have some material on my clutch disc, and there's only slight evidence of slippage on the flywheel and pressure plate (probably from contaminating the flywheel with oil when the cooler blew...I didn't have that little plate on the bottom attached... :confused: )

re: happiness with clutches...no one I know is happy with theirs, regardless of the brand. :cool: Guys with the Sachs Racing ones don't like the noise and vow to go SPEC next time, folks who use SPEC swear they're going Centerforce when the current one goes, and then the Centerforce guys ......:D
So Mike you're saying the Viggen clutch will hold 390 ft. lbs? Mine slips when it's really cold out and I haven't gotten oil on it and I'm making less torque than you (about 340-350ft. lbs.). I wonder what is up?
 

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A viggen PP with a full-face friction disk holds considerably less torque than a Viggen plate with a 6-puck disk.


This is why I was asking about pressure plate pressures.
anyone know?
 

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A12 said:
So Mike you're saying the Viggen clutch will hold 390 ft. lbs? Mine slips when it's really cold out and I haven't gotten oil on it and I'm making less torque than you (about 340-350ft. lbs.). I wonder what is up?
Hey Adam..:D .It held for daily driving, but I'm pretty gentle with it. When I removed it I was pretty surprised to see it still intact, with less wear on the disc than I thought. I've never taken it to the strip, rarely race from a light, and don't do 4th to 2nd, or 5th to 3rd shifts very often.

That said....I knew it was only a short term clutch when I put it in a couple years ago. I expected to get a couple of years from it with the power I had with the 16T (about 300-320 ft-lbs). I didn't expect it to have the longevity of a Sachs Racing/Spec/Centerforce/ACT/...etc...

That's the real issue....it not how much torque the clutch will hold, but how many days/months/years the clutch can hold that level. :D I could probably put the Viggen disc back in, but I'd just need to go back into the tranny soon. I'm going to run the SPEC disc/Viggen PP combo to see what it's like (I've driven it on a couple of cars and I was happy with it...)
 

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mike saunders said:
Hey Adam..:D .It held for daily driving, but I'm pretty gentle with it. When I removed it I was pretty surprised to see it still intact, with less wear on the disc than I thought. I've never taken it to the strip, rarely race from a light, and don't do 4th to 2nd, or 5th to 3rd shifts very often.

That said....I knew it was only a short term clutch when I put it in a couple years ago. I expected to get a couple of years from it with the power I had with the 16T (about 300-320 ft-lbs). I didn't expect it to have the longevity of a Sachs Racing/Spec/Centerforce/ACT/...etc...

That's the real issue....it not how much torque the clutch will hold, but how many days/months/years the clutch can hold that level. :D I could probably put the Viggen disc back in, but I'd just need to go back into the tranny soon. I'm going to run the SPEC disc/Viggen PP combo to see what it's like (I've driven it on a couple of cars and I was happy with it...)
Cool. Let me know how that combo works out-I will probably need a new clutch within a years time.
 

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Ok i had a viggen clutch kit and i would say that it will easily hold to stage 5 if beyond 300whp go with and i say go with a viggen PP/ spec clutch is the best combo for drivilabily i heard from a realible sorce that it handles 425 whp with no slip. Nick at GS will tell you this.
 

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SAAB9-3USA said:
Ok i had a viggen clutch kit and i would say that it will easily hold to stage 5 if beyond 300whp go with and i say go with a viggen PP/ spec clutch is the best combo for drivilabily i heard from a realible sorce that it handles 425 whp with no slip. Nick at GS will tell you this.
ya, nick told me that to... then i sent him the pictures above and he never got back to me about it. i might have 300whp and i snapped that clutch, and it would slip in 3ed sometimes if i really pushed it above 23psi.
 

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jonny72888 said:
ya, nick told me that to... then i sent him the pictures above and he never got back to me about it. i might have 300whp and i snapped that clutch, and it would slip in 3ed sometimes if i really pushed it above 23psi.
you can'tclutch drop the viggen clutch combo can't handle that at your power. stg.3 it viggen clutch could handle it but not at 300whp. and for a at or above 300whp nicks suggest VIGGEN PP/SPEC CLUTCH
 

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jonny72888 said:
ya, nick told me that to... then i sent him the pictures above and he never got back to me about it. i might have 300whp and i snapped that clutch, and it would slip in 3ed sometimes if i really pushed it above 23psi.

With a 15T?
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
My stock clutch wouldn't even slip 3rd under WOT until I heated it up and it quit, and I have my little td04 maxed out with an MP intercooler.
 
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