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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Is it possible to go from stage 1 to stage 3 without any modifications, for the 2.8T. I see that the stage0 Vtune numbers are almost the same as the Stage 3 Bsr with just the tune alone.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
According to BSR, you have to upgrade the injectors and turbo for the V6 2.8T. The stage 0 vtuner tune, without any mods gives you 328hp and 405 ft-lb torque, which is slightly higher than the stage 3 BSR. I'm thinking, since it's safe for the vtune why wouldn't it be safe to go to stage 3 bsr. I have BSR stage 1.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Have you tried contacting BSR. That's the safest bet, but for sure they won't advice it.

Might have an ill effect on the turbo.

May I ask why you want stage 3 without upgrading the other components?
Too loud and other issues?
Because stage 3 would be almost the same as the vtune stage 0, and the vtune stage 0 is the just the ecu upgrade and there are no problems.
 

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You have a V6. There is no stage 3 for your V6. There's only BSR Stg1 or Stg2 for the 2.8T motor. I dont think the upgrade from 1 to 3 is for the V6 engine.

Also, the BSR stage 3 doesn't need the injectors and all. They say you need a full turbo back for the stage 3. If you do an ecu tune like Nordic they recommend all that stuff to be upgraded for the full effect of the tune. I would go with the VTuner since you have the V6 anyway. It's better than BSR IMO.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
You have a V6. There is no stage 3 for your V6. There's only BSR Stg1 or Stg2 for the 2.8T motor. I dont think the upgrade from 1 to 3 is for the V6 engine.

Also, the BSR stage 3 doesn't need the injectors and all. They say you need a full turbo back for the stage 3. If you do an ecu tune like Nordic they recommend all that stuff to be upgraded for the full effect of the tune. I would go with the VTuner since you have the V6 anyway. It's better than BSR IMO.
I already have BSR stage 1, so it would be cheaper to stick with them and go to stage 3. If you go to the bsr website there is stage 3 for the 2.8T V6, 320hp 520nm torque.
 

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I already have BSR stage 1, so it would be cheaper to stick with them and go to stage 3. If you go to the bsr website there is stage 3 for the 2.8T V6, 320hp 520nm torque.
Ah good stuff. I was looking at genuinesaab not BSR site. If its on the BSR site then I would do as is stated on there. If the site recommends certain things I would go with it to get the full effect. Otherwise it may not be worth the money to upgrade.
 

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There are different ways to tune a car; I'm not familiar with the T8 systems in the least. The concepts are all similar, but their implementations can be different; different ways to make 'power'.

If a software tune says it requires x,y,z hardware then , unless you're fully willing to take on an exploded engine, I suggest installing x,y,z hardware. They are obviously tuning FOR their hardware, ie. exhaust flow, injector duration, FPR variants, etc. If you do not replace these components, the software will be wrong for the hardware present. Obvious things can complicate matters very quickly.

For an example, older tunes for t7 systems: One company tuned for an uprated FPR, another company just changed the injector duration higher on stock injectors, feeling that the duration was still within working limits.

Each path is valid in on its own account, however, 'mixing and matching' tune to hardware, you can see how things could get messed up pretty quickly. In this example, either too learn or too rich, depending on how you mixed and matched the software to the hardware.

View any 'mailbox tune' as a kit; IE if it says it requires the hardware, buy it. If it needs a 3" downpipe, and instead you go and make your own, I think you'll be fine. If you totally ignored the requested 3" downpipe, you're eventually going to end up with burned valves or worse.

your car, you decide.

Ben
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
There are different ways to tune a car; I'm not familiar with the T8 systems in the least. The concepts are all similar, but their implementations can be different; different ways to make 'power'.

If a software tune says it requires x,y,z hardware then , unless you're fully willing to take on an exploded engine, I suggest installing x,y,z hardware. They are obviously tuning FOR their hardware, ie. exhaust flow, injector duration, FPR variants, etc. If you do not replace these components, the software will be wrong for the hardware present. Obvious things can complicate matters very quickly.

For an example, older tunes for t7 systems: One company tuned for an uprated FPR, another company just changed the injector duration higher on stock injectors, feeling that the duration was still within working limits.

Each path is valid in on its own account, however, 'mixing and matching' tune to hardware, you can see how things could get messed up pretty quickly. In this example, either too learn or too rich, depending on how you mixed and matched the software to the hardware.

View any 'mailbox tune' as a kit; IE if it says it requires the hardware, buy it. If it needs a 3" downpipe, and instead you go and make your own, I think you'll be fine. If you totally ignored the requested 3" downpipe, you're eventually going to end up with burned valves or worse.

your car, you decide.

Ben
Finally got the answer. Thanks for the explanation.
 

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Read the fine print in the Advertisement: Bold and underlined

Product InformationPower & Torque:
Orig: 245Hp / 384Nm
Stage 3: 320Hp / 520Nm
Measured by BSR

Comprises:
PPC Tuning System|8900,BSR 2.5" sports exhaust system|4006323,Performance air filter|46295234,Car mat|804103,Injectors|56018096,Upgraded turbo (exchange)|515905

Optional:
Optional: Opti-Flow|4900506,Notes: Stage 3 makes it possible to run on either petrol or E85 at any proportion.
Only installed by BSR in Võxj÷, Sweden. Installation takes two weeks.
 
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