[rawill]

I am going hunting for a thread on this.

I had my dash top off, and instrument panel out to check out my ACC. (now fixed)

When I put it back together the SRS lights stays on.

Pointers to threads are welcome, as are any ideas for fixing the issues especially the SRS light staying on.

 

[rawill]

OOPs that is not all

Not only is the SRS light staying on.
I have no speedo, and the info display shows only 11.2 volts with the engine running, but checking at the battery with a multimeter it shows 14.2

What have I done,
I can find no blown fuses anywhere.

Before this, the car would not start.
I tried another DI, then found a blown ECU fuse.
After replacing the fuse everything was great, except for what I have now found above.

 

[Cuba]

You must have upset something while you were working out the acc. I suppose the ignition would've had to be on while you were testing the mechanism. Maybe a fault got sent then when, perhaps you knocked some wires or plugs about.

 

[SaabKen]

You must have upset something while you were working out the acc. I suppose the ignition would've had to be on while you were testing the mechanism. Maybe a fault got sent then when, perhaps you knocked some wires or plugs about.

In other words, yee buggah'd it

Often though, an SRS light that stays lit means a fault in the SRS system. For 9000s, the most common is a bad clock spring.

 

[90000006]

One of the things the SRS unit checks is continuity in the srs-light circuit.

In other words, if you turn on the ignition with the dashboard disconnected the SRS unit will detect a fault in the light circuit and store it. Does that ring a bell :cheesy:

btw the same happens if you blow or pull fuse 13 (trionic etc) with ignition on, as it is this fuse that powers the srs light with +12V.

Only way to get this fixed is to clear the fault using Saab's Tech2. But make sure you have all the electrics sorted out before. Check out the connectors on the back of the dash, looks like one of them is not inserted the way it should.

 

[Jim Mesthene]

One of the things the SRS unit checks is continuity in the srs-light circuit.

In other words, if you turn on the ignition with the dashboard disconnected the SRS unit will detect a fault in the light circuit and store it. Does that ring a bell :cheesy:

btw the same happens if you blow or pull fuse 13 (trionic etc) with ignition on, as it is this fuse that powers the srs light with +12V.

Only way to get this fixed is to clear the fault using Saab's Tech2. But make sure you have all the electrics sorted out before. Check out the connectors on the back of the dash, looks like one of them is not inserted the way it should.

I couldn't have said it better.

 

[rawill]

One of the things the SRS unit checks is continuity in the srs-light circuit.

In other words, if you turn on the ignition with the dashboard disconnected the SRS unit will detect a fault in the light circuit and store it. Does that ring a bell :cheesy:

btw the same happens if you blow or pull fuse 13 (trionic etc) with ignition on, as it is this fuse that powers the srs light with +12V.

Only way to get this fixed is to clear the fault using Saab's Tech2. But make sure you have all the electrics sorted out before. Check out the connectors on the back of the dash, looks like one of them is not inserted the way it should.

OK - I will do some more checking - you give me some more hope than SaabKen does :lol:

And to think I didn't need to take the instrument panel out to check my ACC anyway - because the fault was the ACC control unit!

Yes I do hear some bells ringing about the blown fuse, and turning the ignition on without the instrument panel connected.

 

[Cuba]

Hmmmm....you posted that ^^ at 6:28 this morning? You had better be dairy farming or you're mad.

 

[rawill]

Hmmmm....you posted that ^^ at 6:28 this morning? You had better be dairy farming or you're mad.

Hmmmm - must be mad then - but I have leased our place to a dairy farmer, does that count.

Sometimes I am on here way before then!!

Couldn't sleep trying to think about how I am going to fix my muck up on the SRS and speedo.

Anyway: Just went and checked out my instrument cluster connections, all seemed to be good.
Connected everything up again, still showing low voltage, 10.6v, pressed the info button and the voltage read correctly, and now speedo works, cruise control works, (I never mentioned before that it wasn't working - I guess because the speedo wasn't working)

BUT still got the SRS light on.

Comes on, then flashes, then stays on with no flashing.

Is there anyway to clear this fault with out going to a Tech2, the closest is 600km away,
and this car has no WOF and reg so I won't get these until I get the fault cleared.

 

[SaabKen]

Hmmmm....you posted that ^^ at 6:28 this morning? You had better be dairy farming or you're mad.

Hmmmm - must be mad then - but I have leased our place to a dairy farmer, does that count.

Sometimes I am on here way before then!!

Couldn't sleep trying to think about how I am going to fix my muck up on the SRS and speedo.

Imagine the phone now being his wi-fi connection ........

:lol::lol:

 

[rawill]

Imagine the phone now being his wi-fi connection ........

:lol::lol:

:cheesy::cheesy:

This all very good fun - and I like the humor.

But how can I clear this SRS light without a tech 2.

Someone told me it can probably be done if you know which pins to bridge on the connector - but then I don't even know where the connector is!!;oops:

 

[9000kev]

hi mate.

i was told by someone on here, that you can reset fault codes by unplugging the ecu for atleast 5 mins. and then plugging it back in again,
and it looses the memory or somthing?

i donno if someone can back me up or am i talking ****e?

""""SRS stands for Supplemental Restraint System or Airbag. Over 90 percent of Blinking SRS lights are cause by the Horn Contact Rings. This ring is located behind the steering wheel and also contains your vehicle horn. The dealer fault code is 2D on the Airbag tester. Replacement of the horn contact reel is not difficult but should be performed by AUTHORIZED PERSONNEL due to the technical nature and the possibility of Airbag Deployment. The Airbag Light can only be reset or independent shops that own the Airbag tester!""""

quoting from saabsite. so maybe i am wrong then?


""""To clear the fault code memory, unplug the control module connector for at least five minutes""""
http://www.saab9000.com/procedures/powertrain/diagnosis/faultcodes.php

but i am thinking this is only engine code related issues and maynot be anythign todo with the srs lights ???

hope this helps?
kev

 

[90000006]

Connected everything up again, still showing low voltage, 10.6v, pressed the info button and the voltage read correctly,

That's perfectly normal, after starting the engine the display show the lowest voltage detected during starting. Display changes back to normal reading after the car speed rises about a few km/h, pressing info does the same.

BUT still got the SRS light on.

Comes on, then flashes, then stays on with no flashing.

That is because it stored the fault and it will stay that way until you clear it.

Is there anyway to clear this fault with out going to a Tech2, the closest is 600km away,

Afaik the *only* way to clear srs faults is using a tech2. Unplugging the battery will only reset fault codes in the trionic ecu but not in the srs unit. Once heard something about a special srs diagnose box being able to do the job, but never seen one in real life so don't know if it even exists.

The fault is stored in the SRS unit itself, so it could be a possibility to remove it, send it over to someone with a tech2 and reset it there. He'll probably need to connect it to another 9000 in order to do so.
Alternatively you could look around for another srs module from a scrapyard, unfortunately no way to tell from the outside whether it is clean.

The unit is bolted on the floor under the dashboard, near the bulkhead in the middle of the car. Switch off ignition, disconnect the battery, wait half an hour and you can safely remove it. Installation is the other way round.

 

[rawill]

That's perfectly normal, after starting the engine the display show the lowest voltage detected during starting. Display changes back to normal reading after the car speed rises about a few km/h, pressing info does the same.

Yes - but

In my case it was not showing true voltage after running the engine for 15 minutes. When I went for a test drive it never shifted above 11.2 when the reading at the battery was 14.2.

So somehow I seemed to get a fault into the system that would not clear.

I have tried leaving the battery disconnected for 30 minutes, I have also tried connected the the disconnected positive and negative battery leads ( which works on some vehicles)

Another person has suggested having the battery disconnected for 2 days, I guess this is to drain any memory.

I will try that as well.

Hi Saabken and Cuba, was going to give you a call at 6.10 am and say welcome to a new day, but I stayed in bed and listened to the radio instead.

Off to another day at Teretonga for the Evolution Motorsport Classic car racing today.

Cows are milked, cowphone is put away for another day:lol:

 

[rawill]

I wondered if there was anyway to take all the electricity out of the capacitors that store the electricity for the memory that keeps the fault code in there.

Like earthing the appropriate connector terminal in the blocks where the Tech II connects.

 

[90000006]

It's not that straightforward. The codes are stored in some non-volatile memory within the SRS unit, this memory being controlled by a microcontroller. Never opened one up so can't tell you what kind of memory they use, but my guess would be an eeprom seen the age of the system. I doubt if they use battery or capacitor powered memory in a safety system such as SRS. And even if they do, it probably will be implemented in such a way that an empty capacitor or battery will trigger another SRS fault :evil:

Tech2 establishes a datalink with this controller and through that path can read and reset the contents of that memory. All this using protocols that only Saab knows about :roll:

Unless you can get another clean SRS unit it seems you have some driving to do...

 

[Jim Mesthene]

.... my guess would be an eeprom ....

That's how it works according to SAAB SRS school.

 

[twoturbos]

An untriggered SRS ECU will certainly clear the light providing that there are no faults present of course.
The op still doesn't really know for sure what triggered it the first place .

 

[rawill]

An untriggered SRS ECU will certainly clear the light providing that there are no faults present of course.
The op still doesn't really know for sure what triggered it the first place .

Yes two turbos I do know.

I did it when I had the instrument panel out. I was checking the operation of ACC unit. The battery was connected, and I turned the ignition on with the instrument panel disconnected.

I put all this in a thread on the "ACC blowing hot" I should have repeated it here so as not to confuse people.

So far you have all said the same, a new SRS unit, or a trip to Christchurch to the agent to have it cleared.

And I am sure that if there was any other way those who have been around Saabs a long time would have figured it. Jim and others I value your long history and knowledge of these cars.

Thank you for your help. I think I might know where there is s clean SRS.

Robin

 

[twoturbos]

Robin

Ok, good luck. PM me if you get stuck for one. I am UK but Royal Mail will deliver to NZ