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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Driving down the motorway I got a stone flick up and smash my right side spot light.

I thought that instead of spending £75 on a new light I'd undertake to do "the spotlight air feed" mod...

So here are the finished pics......



 

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Fab up a shield to force all the air through the hose...that should help some more.
 

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Yeah that looks pretty good, Like they said you should make the mount a fennel so that all the air gets pushd directly into the tube and you may want to mesh it so a small animal doesnt call it home durring the winter.

Any pics of how the plumbing runs inside the car?

Also what did you use to make it?
 

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So you plumbed it straight into the airbox? ;oops:

Plumbing
 

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nice idea but living in a wet climate like we do i would be worried about sucking in water,also the pipe that was removed has an important part to play in low down torque
 

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Boxman:

Water, yep, hence plumbing post :D

Pipe affecting low-down torque? Why? :confused:
And does it? And can you prove it ? :cheesy:
 

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i must say nice job=] i did sum what the same but i just ran the hose behind my light just to get a little more cooler air.. nothing forced like yours is, my lights still work. im thinking about trying to run it behind the lower grill. any amount of cooler air works i guess.
 

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Thats the only thing that makes me iffy about putting a ram intake so low; snow and rain could create a serious issue.
 

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pade900 said:
What kind of bhp-increase does Abbott state for this mod?
1bhp:cheesy:
On a sunny day there's a lot of hot air sitting just above the tarmac which has been heated by the sun - this will be very good at sucking it up and loosing you a few BHP. Unless there is a very smooth profile radius to the end of the intake it will create turbulence which will hider the flow of air into it. Saab did design the intake to maximise velocity at low airflow so it's common for these mods to kill off your low end power a bit.
 

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Shirozina said:
Unless there is a very smooth profile radius to the end of the intake it will create turbulence which will hider the flow of air into it. Saab did design the intake to maximise velocity at low airflow so it's common for these mods to kill off your low end power a bit.

you got it ;) some thing to do with harmonics i believe, no proof tho' :roll:
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
boxman said:
you got it ;) some thing to do with harmonics i believe, no proof tho' :roll:
Car feels better for it and, dare I say it, revs slightly more freely (but that coudl be my over excited brain!)
 

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Did'nt notice a loss when i did mine, or any noticable gains, i took it off when it snowed and pushed the pipe in and back around so it is pointing towards the inner wheel arch, did'nt notice any dramatic change in low down torque.
 

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If you run the intake as an Upside down T where the water can exit the back through a small hole. Rocks and stuff with go that way too. But most of the airflow pressure will go up.

As for the Open air I found the opposite playing with the intakes on the 2.3Na car. We gained low end with an open air. Look here http://genuinesaab.com/gallery/23i/Together I believe the factory was trying to eliminate noise as a first priority.
 

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I can't understand how you could show any benefits of a mod like this on a dyno, how could you get the same effect in a closed room with a large fan blowing as out on the open road with ...mph of air flowing into the intake, surely to get the best/most usefull comparison you would have to to timed 30-90 runs or similar.

Can you expain how/why you think a dyno would be a reliable test of the modificaton over a timed run on a straight level road for example, I cannot see that it would.
 

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The GS open air intake is not a 'RAM air ' system so I can't see how a moving or stationary car will make a difference - seeing as Nick has a dyno at hand and sells these intakes I was just wondering if he had any data to show it's benefits
 

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I'm going to 'try' and log some data from various intakes in the spring, inc stock paper, stock sports, stock sports with headlight feed, spotlight feed and finally if i can be bothered to buy one a K&N type filter. I've just got a 2nd IAT so need two vacuum/boost gauges to connect up aswell, i could also log O2 from a WBO2 is needed. No way i'm going to dyno, will cost too much to do that many runs.

Ideally i'd like to get it done before altering the exhaust and may go as far as replacing the ebay IC with a stock intercooler, so the car is basically stock.
 
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