[NorsemanOBN]

I have recently purchased a 1969 Sonett V4 and have been doing fluid changes and adjustments since the car was was not driven for many years. I am a newcomer to Saab.
I find that the clutch pedal can be depressed about 2" before any resistance in felt in the pedal. I don't know if this correct but it seems like a lot of free play from any previous experience. The clutch otherwsie seems Ok and gear changes are made without grinding or need to double clutch.
If adjustment is necessary how is this done? I have downloaded the manual available for the Sonett 3 which I suspect is very similar to the earlier V4. The manual shows that an adjustment can be made where the slave cylinder rod is attached to the clutch arm. Is the adjustment of 4mm gap between release bearing and release housing made by pushing the clutch pedal or while clutch pedal is up. Is the adjustment made by loosening the bolt that holds the slave cylinder rod to the clutch release housing? Please excuse me if I have the terminology wrong. Thanks.

 

[Carfixer2]

If you look over on the other side of the bell housing you will see a square drive bolt and a nut to lock it in position. This is were you make the adjustment. It is the other end of the clutch fork.

 

[NorsemanOBN]

Thank for the quick and informative response. Is the measurement made simply by pushing the slave cylinder rod to get the 4mm of movement while adjusting the screw on the opposite side of the clutch housing. I adjusted the screw both ways and I am at a loss as to what to measure?

 

[Joshinator99]

Given the age of those cars, it’s not uncommon to need the clutch master or slave cylinders rebuilt by a firm like White Post Restoration. If yours are in good shape with no leaks (!) then you should flush the fluid and make sure it’s bled out well. The other thing that happens is the hose between the master and slave cylinders gets swollen up internally which screws up the clutch action…. Only if all that is in great shape would I mess with the adjustment IMO.

 

[NorsemanOBN]

Given the age of those cars, it’s not uncommon to need the clutch master or slave cylinders rebuilt by a firm like White Post Restoration. If yours are in good shape with no leaks (!) then you should flush the fluid and make sure it’s bled out well. The other thing that happens is the hose between the master and slave cylinders gets swollen up internally which screws up the clutch action…. Only if all that is in great shape would I mess with the adjustment IMO.

Thank you for the information. The hydraulics appear to be in good shape with no leaks. I plan to bleed the cylinders with new fluid. The clutch does work and the trans shifts fine but the pedal freeplay seems excessive hence my question about the adjustment. The screw moves the fork as it should.

 

[Joshinator99]

Thank you for the information. The hydraulics appear to be in good shape with no leaks. I plan to bleed the cylinders with new fluid. The clutch does work and the trans shifts fine but the pedal freeplay seems excessive hence my question about the adjustment. The screw moves the fork as it should.

No problem! Your original post made me think it might be more related to needing a fluid flush and bleeding than adjustment, but I could be wrong.

 

[NorsemanOBN]

No problem! Your original post made me think it might be more related to needing a fluid flush and bleeding than adjustment, but I could be wrong.

Well you could still be right but there are no visible leaks but the internals may be faulty. This is my first Saab so perhaps a lot of clutch pedal freeplay is normal. I do have enough strength in my fingers at my age to move the slave piston forward but with a slight pry on the clutch lever I can adjust movement. May I assume the movement is enough when resistance is felt at the clutch end? There are a few of features in this car that I haven't encountered before.
I have a Haynes manual for the sedan models and I think I have a better idea how to make the measurement.

 

[Joshinator99]

Well you could still be right but there are no visible leaks but the internals may be faulty. This is my first Saab so perhaps a lot of clutch pedal freeplay is normal. I do have enough strength in my fingers at my age to move the slave piston forward but with a slight pry on the clutch lever I can adjust movement. May I assume the movement is enough when resistance is felt at the clutch end? There are a few of features in this car that I haven't encountered before.
I have a Haynes manual for the sedan models and I think I have a better idea how to make the measurement.

It sounds like you’re on the right track. That clutch gives a bunch of vintage Saab guys trouble for sure.

Getting use to the freewheel mechanism? I’d suggest leaving that locked out at all times. It was designed for the 2 stroke 3-cylinder that had much less torque so it’s not a good idea to use it in the V4 models.

 

[NorsemanOBN]

Thanks, I got it sorted and it seems adjusted as per the manual but clutch pedal freeplay is still more than 2". Every manual I have read says to adjust at the clutch end and allwo 4mm gap so I will leave it there. I will leave the freewheel locked out as you suggest. It is a strange beast for sure!