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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So grateful to find this BUSY and thoughtful forum with so many people happy to give advice and ideas.

Just bought a beautiful and low miles (about 78k) 2004 9-5 and it was perfect and fun for about three weeks. Occasionally the gas guage didn't move when started but would the next time. Then one morning upon start up every dashboard light stayed on. I turned it off and back on and nothing moved including the speedometer but the engine light was on and it seemed to be briefly in the limp mode. Had the codes checked at Autozone and it was P1625. Later the light just went off and everything seemed fine for another week.

Then the light show on the dash again or a dark dash and sometimes turning the key and it chimes but does NOTHING - this repeated for minutes until it suddenly DOES start right up. A couple of days of this and a schedule too busy to get it looked at and one more day of it turning over but not starting tried over some minutes before it finally does, Now it's in a parking lot where it will crank (after lots of attempts) but won't start. Briefly at one point I saw the display have something like "Key not recognized" while it was running.

Off reading posts in this forum I thought a good place to start would be the Direct Ignition Coil, though that doesn't SEEM to me to explain everything. I got one from a salvage yard's 1999 9-5 thinking it surely wasn't the reason that car was there so it ought to work and if so I could order a new one. Didn't work.

So I'm at a loss and because every part has to be ordered and is not cheap I hope this scenario is familiar to someone out there. YOur help and guidance would be much appreciated. It likely ends up at a mechanic but if I can work it out myself I'd be...relieved. Thanks!
 

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i dont know for sure what your problem is, but i can say it sounds like you have battery/electrical issues and probably a fuel issue

if it were me i would check battery connections grounds and i would get a fuel pressure gauge from autozone (free-ish) and plug it in to my fuel rail (screws right into the middle of the rail) to see if im getting fuel pressure, i would also cycle the ignition a couple times to see if the pressure holds

if you try those report back with results
 

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NSS transmission switch...

One possibility is that your Saab's NSS transmission switch (automatic tranny) is oxidised and needs a makeover and cleanup. One way to know when it fails to start is to run the transmission lever back and forth from Park to position 1 a few times and see if this helps.

I'm assuming your car has an automatic transmission... If not, forget this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Will definitely try these things and report back, hopefully in a searchable way so if/when I or a mechanic figure it out can be of help to the next one with such a strange set of symptoms. Thanks so much!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Update

Sorry for the delay in updating. In the end had the car towed to a scrupulous mechanic who fixed it for $100. It was something with the computer that just needed resetting though removing the battery didn't do it. FWIW, and hope this helps someone along the way.

Thanks all, for the thoughtful responses.
 

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Sorry for the delay in updating. In the end had the car towed to a scrupulous mechanic who fixed it for $100. It was something with the computer that just needed resetting though removing the battery didn't do it. FWIW, and hope this helps someone along the way.

Thanks all, for the thoughtful responses.
What did he do to reset it?

Because you can reset the ECU by removing fuse 17 for about 30 seconds.

?
 

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P1625 is failed communication with the ABS controller. This also causes the Christmas tree of dash lights and no speedometer. You need to get this rebuilt, try BBA_Reman as they have quick turn around and cost is ~$150.

Cranking and not starting is not a failed NSS. When the Neutral Safety Switch fails it results in a no crank scenario, often occurring when the engine/transmission are warm. For a 2004 this part is $$$$, let's hope it has not failed.

Cranking and not starting might be a failing CPS, particularly if this happens on hot restart. A new CPS is under $100.

Cranking and not starting may be a very weak fuel pump too. Check to see if you have fuel pressure on the fuel rail when this happens.

For your $100 I fear your mechanic was only able to cancel the fault code and didn't really fix the problems. With most mechanics charging $100/hour or more for their labor there wasn't much opportunity for him to do anything substantial.
 
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