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I have noticed sometimes when i get on the throttle pretty hard that my car smells pretty bad..now it seems like even just when im done my regular drivin and i get out of my car that i can smell something like the the smell of rotten eggs..is this something i should be worried about?
 

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Bummer 9-3 said:
I have noticed sometimes when i get on the throttle pretty hard that my car smells pretty bad..now it seems like even just when im done my regular drivin and i get out of my car that i can smell something like the the smell of rotten eggs..is this something i should be worried about?
When was the last time the cabin filter was changed?
 

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I get the same and i think it is the cat, i tend to drive with the window open and have to excuse the car when i have passengers!'It's not me honest':lol:

Although i think on a few occasions the mental boost my classic 900 had may have caused some of my passengers to let out a similar whiff:cheesy:
 

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The rotten egg smell is from a properly working cat. Thats what it should smell like after "getting on it". Normal driving, it should'nt be that pungent, next to no smell at all. Driving hard though it will smell.

During normal driving conditions all "cats" store sulfur. When the car is driven at cruise speed for a long time or when your really getting on it it will heat up, The converter then releases the sulfur as hydrogen sulfide during fuel-rich engine running conditions such as idle after deceleration from cruising speeds or heavy acceleration.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Ok well my exhuast is a 5 month old 2.5 sport exhaust do you really think the cat is bad or is just from hard acceleration and nothing to worry about?
 

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Theres nothing wrong with your cat. It will probably take up to 10,000 miles of driving before its "not as bad". Your fuel grade selection also plays a role in the amount of smell. Might want to try a higher octane just to see, but for the most part, nothing to worry about.Keep drivin!
 

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The converter is in a bad location; with more airflow, the smell could be quickly/effectively dissipated; more engineering work is necessary to assure this. The engine compartment is sealed from the cabin , using rubber grommets , if one is displaced or cracks, then the smells will find there way into the drivers comparment..A reason why GM has the "always on" ventilation fan which helps alleviate these conditions....

A front license plate can mess up the airflow, or the car being lowered...
Also, assure that the cabin air intake is well sealed from the engine compartment. IMO, this "design" can be improved upon...

The second lambda sensor will determine when the cat-conv is no longer effective....
 

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kpa2004 The rotten egg smell is from a properly working cat. Thats what it should smell like after "getting on it". Normal driving, it should'nt be that pungent, next to no smell at all. Driving hard though it will smell.

During normal driving conditions all "cats" store sulfur. When the car is driven at cruise speed for a long time or when your really getting on it it will heat up, The converter then releases the sulfur as hydrogen sulfide during fuel-rich engine running conditions such as idle after deceleration from cruising speeds or heavy acceleration.
earthworm
The second lambda sensor will determine when the cat-conv is no longer effective....
So does that mean with a 95 NG900 turbo with just a mbc 15psi getting on it hard should smell like fuel?
Because in my car it reeks with the windows down whenever I get on it from a bit more than moderate, to full heavy acceleration. Or does this sound like some other fuel problem? Running rich? Vacuum leak? Leak causing the richness?



And does that mean my SID would tell me if my cat is bad??


Thanks any help would be appreciated
 

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switzx said:
So does that mean with a 95 NG900 turbo with just a mbc 15psi getting on it hard should smell like fuel?
Because in my car it reeks with the windows down whenever I get on it from a bit more than moderate, to full heavy acceleration. Or does this sound like some other fuel problem? Running rich? Check the FPR. Vacuum leak? Likely; you may be due for a third change of vacuum hoses.Leak causing the richness? Possible...



And does that mean my SID would tell me if my cat is bad?? No, the OBD I may do this, but I do not know if OBD I uses a second "reader".I don't think they do...???


Thanks any help would be appreciated
FPR = fuel pressure regulator
 

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kpa2004 said:
The rotten egg smell is from a properly working cat. Thats what it should smell like after "getting on it". Normal driving, it should'nt be that pungent, next to no smell at all. Driving hard though it will smell.
QUOTE]

thank you. I was a little worried the couple times i got out of my car after putting the petal down because of the slight sulfuric smell. Now i don't have to worry.:D
 

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Is there any chance the FPR would cause the car to not start?
Will crank forever but won't start... used starting fluid and fired right up
Tested the fuel pump relay... it's ok
So i'm thinking i'm screwed and it's the pump... but I just want to see if the fpr might cause this because it would be WAY less work to replace
Not looking forward to dropping the tank, or I guess cutting a hole in the back

Thanks for any help much appreciated
 

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On the FPR , from what I have read here, the regulator will have no effect on start up....BUT, I was thinking, if its diaphram were really torn open, it would create problems (too much fuel)..

Check your CPS and the fuel pump circuit.
Do you have a manual ?
Do cut the access hole, its easy, I believe...
 

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It's a manual..
I know I have spark
Fired up right away with some starting fluid
Don't think the CPS is bad since starting fluid worked?? Doesn't that just control spark?
I also jumped the 32 fuse and didn't hear the pump prime... or ever when turning the key
And checked the relay
So i'm pretty sure it's the pump
I think my FPR is bad still because I am getting too much fuel, I was just hoping it could be the sole cause of this...
I guess i'll cut the access hole



Thanks for the help
 

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switzx said:
It's a manual....The paper manual, either WIS or Haynes
I know I have spark
Fired up right away with some starting fluid
Don't think the CPS is bad since starting fluid worked?? Doesn't that just control spark?..This controls both
I also jumped the 32 fuse and didn't hear the pump prime... or ever when turning the key
And checked the relay
So i'm pretty sure it's the pump...Introduce current directly to the pump...if still a "no go", then she is a beaten and dead horse..
I think my FPR is bad still because I am getting too much fuel, I was just hoping it could be the sole cause of this...
I guess I'll cut the access hole

Thanks for the help
Testing the FPR is easy, a task for your vacuum pump..
http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=61165
The access....
 

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So how do I test the FPR exactly?
It was my fuel pump causing the no start... but my car just reeks of gas pretty much anytime i accelerate now if the windows are down


Thanks for all the help
 

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Smell of gasoline is most certainly a leak. Inspect the injector connections and the FPR. FPR can be tested with a fuel pressure gauge connected to the rail.
 
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