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slipping clutch?

530 Views 3 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  '97 Saab SE Turbo

1995 SAAB NG900 XS
169k 2.0 non turbo.

Just started to notice in 2nd gear, on hard acceleration, the revs climb higher than the road speed as usual, almost like one of those CVT gearboxes!.

Have noticed that this will also happen in 3rd and 4th. Also, can judder a bit in reverse or 1st sometimes. I suspect its the clutch, but I'm hoping its something less expensive! Is there something I can check without dropping the transmission.

I'm not sure if I have a manual adjusting clutch cable or an automatic one. Could it be that the clutch cable.

I was planning on changing the transmission fluid, but I doubt that fluids could be a problem.

Some advice please. Haynes manual is a bit sketchy.
Anyone else had this?, what did you check, how did you resolve it?

Many Thanks!

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· Registered
1,237 Posts
If the revs climb suddenly in a higher gear, where you cannot be breaking the wheels loose, and then snap back down when you let off the accelerator, that's a slipping clutch. This can happen because it's worn, the cable is tight or binding, the linkage is binding and will not release completely or because the rear seal is leaky and there's oil on the clutch plate.

You are correct that a fluid change will do nothing for this. A manual is either in neutral or it doesn't slip, even a little, without breaking teeth and rending metal.

Remove the battery so that you can get to the clutch lever on the trans and make sure that it moves freely past the rest position. You'll probably have to slip off the cable end to do this. Make sure that the cable is not taut when it's at rest. If everything is loose and it still slips, it's probably the clutch itself. If it's the seal, that's still located behind the clutch.


· Registered
12,419 Posts
I changed mine in the fall of 2008, and it wasn't a bad job if you have a second car and can take your time. A few extra tools, a home made engine support stand and a $100 transmission jack was all I had to buy. I took my time and spent 2-3 hours a day. I'd spray the nuts & bolts with a good penetrant (like PB Blaster) let it sit overnight and continue. Even the subframe wasn't too bad to break loose with a 2' breaker bar and a 2' piece of black pipe (100 lbs of pressure on 4' = 400 ft/lbs). The transmission was actually easier to put back in than to remove for some reason. I only needed help getting the trans back in; had my son adjust the engine up/down while I adjusted the trans jack up/down, tilt front/back and left/right... Ron
1 - 4 of 4 Posts
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