[jstrowe]

If the revs climb suddenly in a higher gear, where you cannot be breaking the wheels loose, and then snap back down when you let off the accelerator, that's a slipping clutch. This can happen because it's worn, the cable is tight or binding, the linkage is binding and will not release completely or because the rear seal is leaky and there's oil on the clutch plate.

You are correct that a fluid change will do nothing for this. A manual is either in neutral or it doesn't slip, even a little, without breaking teeth and rending metal.

Remove the battery so that you can get to the clutch lever on the trans and make sure that it moves freely past the rest position. You'll probably have to slip off the cable end to do this. Make sure that the cable is not taut when it's at rest. If everything is loose and it still slips, it's probably the clutch itself. If it's the seal, that's still located behind the clutch.

John

 

[SuperFlyGuy]

Thanks John,
Much appreciated, very helpful!

Cheers mate!

 

['97 Saab SE Turbo]

I changed mine in the fall of 2008, and it wasn't a bad job if you have a second car and can take your time. A few extra tools, a home made engine support stand and a $100 transmission jack was all I had to buy. I took my time and spent 2-3 hours a day. I'd spray the nuts & bolts with a good penetrant (like PB Blaster) let it sit overnight and continue. Even the subframe wasn't too bad to break loose with a 2' breaker bar and a 2' piece of black pipe (100 lbs of pressure on 4' = 400 ft/lbs). The transmission was actually easier to put back in than to remove for some reason. I only needed help getting the trans back in; had my son adjust the engine up/down while I adjusted the trans jack up/down, tilt front/back and left/right... Ron