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Discussion Starter #1
I'm in the process of replacing the clutch in my 99 9-3. The parts needed were received and now a question.
I ordered a FTE Slave cylinder (4925822) thinking this was the best choice behind ordering an OEM one. The picture on the website shows it having the green rubber dust shield(like the one i'm removing). What was received was one with out.
My gut is telling me i'm better off with one that has the rubber boot, but looking for feedback on the FTE brand and running one with out the boot.

Slave cylinder

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I'd guess that's a defect... the boot should be there - I've never seen one without.
Thanks, I sent them( the place I purchased from) an email asking and will follow up with a call tomorrow. I’ll let you know what they say.
 

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I've seen them without the boot. I think the latest version, which was also used in the Cobalt, doesn't have a boot. If Qwikredline, who's usually on the 9-5 forum, reads this, he may be able to let us know for sure.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Still waiting on the vendor to get back to me.
The FTE part number is ZA34002B1, when googled it is showing images of these without the boot. So Im think you are right, cost cutting.
The bigger question,would you install the slave cylinder without a boot?
 

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It wouldn't be my preference, but if GM thinks it's enough to get a car out of warranty, it probably is. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Agreed, just ordered another one from a different place.
Trying to get the first place to cover the cost for returning shipping.

Figuring out a little more of what is going on, the slave cylinder without the boot is for NG 9-3 's. Now will this work in the OG 9-3's i don't know.
But FTE website does list ZA34002B1 (no green boot) to be a replacement for OEM 55558371-with no boot- (NG 9-3) and OEM 4925822 -with boot-(OG 9-3).
The direct replacement for the OEM 4925822 is/was FTE ZA3406A1. Thinking maybe ZA3406A1 is being discontinued.

Helpful FTE link, looking up part numbers
 

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I've seen them without the boot. I think the latest version, which was also used in the Cobalt, doesn't have a boot. If Qwikredline, who's usually on the 9-5 forum, reads this, he may be able to let us know for sure.
Truth. The FTE shown is the updated TOB the green boot one is the older version. The FTE has slightly longer potential stroke to handle the Saab Sachs Performance clutch with single mass flywheel which came out with the 2008-10 SS Cobalt LNF turbo. It is the best one to use. TIP: PRIME the darned TOB by assembling it to the transmission, then running a hose ( I use an extra oem hose) from the distribution elbow on top on the transmission, into a bottle of brake fluid. Then stroke the TOB in an out ( that's a guy thing I believe) so that you expel air and fill the TOB with fluid. Then remove hose and cap it with a plastic plug.. Put a rag underneath the elbow. Install trans, As you draw up the trans the TOB will compress and some fluid will leak out, don't worry, DO NOT seal the elbow tight as when you draw the trans onto the engine the primed TOB will stop you from mounting the trans; some fluid must leak out! Then take the regular feed line from the master cylinder reservoir and make sure there is fluid in the reservoir, and fluid is dripping out of the feed line , and hook it up. You now have 100% clutch release capability with zero need to bleed the clutch, done as I described. Bonus.
 

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I'm in the process of replacing the clutch in my 99 9-3. The parts needed were received and now a question.
I ordered a FTE Slave cylinder (4925822) thinking this was the best choice behind ordering an OEM one. The picture on the website shows it having the green rubber dust shield(like the one i'm removing). What was received was one with out.
My gut is telling me i'm better off with one that has the rubber boot, but looking for feedback on the FTE brand and running one with out the boot.

Slave cylinder

Thanks
GUT is wrong. oh well
 

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And this is why I don’t gamble :(
Thanks for the information
So there is no downside of not having the green boot?
zero downside. the boot didn't do much, there is ( depending on driver skill) the potential for a lot of clutch disc dust, but the TOB wont fail from dust. They fail from lousy drivers *( most people) ,those who sit at lights with their foot on the clutch, who leave their foot on the clutch pedal while brilliantly accelerating hard in first and shifting to second. Some people drive with their foot resting on the clutch pedal for the life of the car. ( a BMW Test facility manager I drove with in Germany was the worst of all time for that) and the result is the TOB bearing wears out. Forum internet wisdom will tell you that TOB over extend and fail ( Impossible if using correct parts) but that's not right. However if you buy a SPEC Clutch it may require a spacer behind the TOB, because their parts are made wrong often. That happens when you take a sachs clutch cover and modify it to shim the diaphragm fingers to increase clamping pressure. Don't buy aftermarket, stick to SACHS.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks again. Trying to cancel my new order and stay with the one I have.
Going with the OEM Sachs clutch kit
Last question, does the WIS list the Min thickness spec for the flywheel? I wasn’t able to find it prior to dropping it off to get resurfaced.
 

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Thanks again. Trying to cancel my new order and stay with the one I have.
Going with the OEM Sachs clutch kit
Last question, does the WIS list the Min thickness spec for the flywheel? I wasn’t able to find it prior to dropping it off to get resurfaced.
if its dual mass its VERY DIFFICULT to resurface, I use an auto trans flex plate to stabilize the dual mass. ALWAYS Machine the same amount off the clutch pressure plate mounting step as is taken off the flywheel clutch face surface if there is a step. I would just scuff it with an 80 grit 90 deg. air sanding tool unless the surface is blued and cracked. forget machining. if its bad replace flywheel they are cheap relatively speaking. New flywheel bolts also. But if you scuff it in place you save a lot of money...ooops too late... The minimum thickness don't worry about it, the machining will be a matter of thousandths. DONT FORGET THE STEP if you have one, if its not machined an equal amount you are in for a world of hurt.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Update: I did order another slave cylinder from a different vendor. Looks like the original green booted FTE are no more. They are being replaced with the newer FTE ZA34002B1. Fitted and working correctly.
As for upgrading to the Viggen Clutch, being this Saab in being driven in the NYC area i really didn't want a harder pedal. Way too much stop and go traffic to deal with. Coupled with i have no plans to increase the HPs, i have 220,00 on the clock. Stayed with the stock clutch.

Good News, she's back on the road.
 

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I would have stayed with the stock clutch too - it'll put up with a fair amount - but the Viggen clutch doesn't really add much in terms of pedal feel. I can't tell the difference. The major difference is the price … like 200%!
 

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Troof. I use the Sachs performance clutch. It’s easy on the leg. But I don’t dd it in traffic. Automatic works best for that
 
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