Size nut filler pipe at tank?
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
7mm 'ignition wrench' on a 2006 SC filler clamp
Here is my experience on a 2006 9-5 fuel pump replacement, quoted from my post on another forum. I certainly had the same problem that you are facing. I remember that for re-installation I used a 7mm 1/4 inch drive socket and a "flex drive" to get that clamp tight again.
"WIS says remove filler pipe retaining bolt – it doesn't say why, but it is necessary to move the filler pipe enough to undo the filler hose from the tank. On my car this is an external Torx bolt, and was hard to remove (did not want to break it!). WIS says to remove filler pipe hose and "bleed tube" from the tank before lowering it. The bleed tube needed the GM connector tool again. WIS does not say how obstructed this area is. On my car the filler obviously went in before they installed the rear subframe, because the "airplane" screw clamp on the filler pipe hose was installed with the screw at the bottom where I could not see it (there is almost no room). I thought this might not be possible, but I used a 7mm open end ignition wrench and loosened the clamp."
Hope this gives you some encouragement that it can be done.
Here is my experience on a 2006 9-5 fuel pump replacement, quoted from my post on another forum. I certainly had the same problem that you are facing. I remember that for re-installation I used a 7mm 1/4 inch drive socket and a "flex drive" to get that clamp tight again.
"WIS says remove filler pipe retaining bolt – it doesn't say why, but it is necessary to move the filler pipe enough to undo the filler hose from the tank. On my car this is an external Torx bolt, and was hard to remove (did not want to break it!). WIS says to remove filler pipe hose and "bleed tube" from the tank before lowering it. The bleed tube needed the GM connector tool again. WIS does not say how obstructed this area is. On my car the filler obviously went in before they installed the rear subframe, because the "airplane" screw clamp on the filler pipe hose was installed with the screw at the bottom where I could not see it (there is almost no room). I thought this might not be possible, but I used a 7mm open end ignition wrench and loosened the clamp."
Hope this gives you some encouragement that it can be done.
Thanks.... where is this retaining bolt you mentioned? So far I have the 3 fuel lines disconnected on passenger side of car that run to engine, and the line that runs along the filler pipe at the back top part of tank. I think that’s all I can do until tank is down.
Also have the PB cables detached, along with a a couple exhaust rubber.
This clamp thankfully isn’t at that bad of an angle to loosen it. I tried a flathead first, but not able to get it flush in the groove completely. My concern is once the clamp is loose, pulling the pipe off, I can only see that working by pulling it from the back side of rear subframe. And then how easy is it going to free from the tank I wonder.
Sorry for slow response - away from my PC yesterday.
The bolt I referred to is located up the filler pipe, screwed into the reinforced chassis rail just rear of the subframe, and just inside the spring-shock assembly. It's up fairly high and likely covered with grime and maybe undercoating.
See the WIS picture attached. On EU cars this bolt/screw is specified as plastic. Mine is a Torx head - forget exact size head.
The bolt I referred to is located up the filler pipe, screwed into the reinforced chassis rail just rear of the subframe, and just inside the spring-shock assembly. It's up fairly high and likely covered with grime and maybe undercoating.
See the WIS picture attached. On EU cars this bolt/screw is specified as plastic. Mine is a Torx head - forget exact size head.
Attachments
Yeah I found it yesterday after I asked. Exposed torx w/a bracket on frame. Hopefully the pipe will pull off easy enough. Thanks
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
Join the discussion
Join now to ask and comment!