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Short shifter

47K views 69 replies 32 participants last post by  Jssaab 
#1 ·
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#4 ·
I'll be putting this on the aero asap.

I think Nick said a t40 torx was needed, but if you work on your car and install parts, you have a good set of torx bits by now, yes? :p

the 9-3/ng900 version has gotten great reviews so far, and this is more or less the same unit but with a special bracket to fit 9-5.
 
#13 ·
How to install your GS short shifter on a 9-5*

*Hopefully I didn't forget any steps, please correct this if you see any glaring errors. this is probably very similar to the ng900/9-3 install I imagine.

OK so you got a GS/Taliaferro short shifter and you want directions because like me, you want to know what you're getting yourself into before you disable your vehicle.
---------------------------------------------- Let's do it!

Ok, first you need to remove the ashtray cubby thing. Saab suppposedly has a special tool for that, but a tiny flathead screwdriver works. take out the rubber pad, and carefully (don't scratch your dash panel) pry up and out to remove.


remove the 2 torx screws holding the lower dash trim on.



Lift up the shift boot. stretch one edge (it has some elastic type band through the bottom that holds it in place) and pull it up and away.



Pop the switches for seat heaters and fans out. Label the connectors so you know which go to which later on.



Some masking tape works well for labels. it's obvious which ones go to heated seats vs fans, but it helps to know what side (driver or passenger) they go to.



carefully lift the lower trim panel away and flip it over to get at the ciggy lighter/ power adaptor connector.



remove connector for light and power.



Almost done - remove the power connector from the door lock switch. Now you can put the lower dash trim aside.



Remove two torx screws at the top of the next trim panel

 
#15 · (Edited by Moderator)
How to install your GS short shifter on a 9-5*

*Hopefully I didn't forget any steps, please correct this if you see any glaring errors. this is probably very similar to the ng900/9-3 install I imagine.

OK so you got a GS/Taliaferro short shifter and you want directions because like me, you want to know what you're getting yourself into before you disable your vehicle.
---------------------------------------------- Let's do it!
So how is it? Right after shocks this might be my next thing to upgrade.
 
#14 ·
Two more down here...



remove the one screw holding the back panel on the center console.



I found it was easier to get things apart by sliding the arm rest all the way forward to get it out of the way for this next part.



the panel lifts UP and away. Some force was needed to get the heating duct to pop out. It has some connectors attached, so be careful not to yank it too far. remove the electrical connections here.



Remove the connector to the anntenna/TRW receiver hidden in this rear panel. Now you can put the panel aside.



The theme here is "remove two torx"... keep repeating until done ...
Take note of the metal clip and it's orientation. This keeps the armrest/cubby cover from going past 90degrees and into the back seat when you open it.



To remove this part, you need to twist it clockwise just about this much... then you can jiggle it up and off.



Remove the electrical connector. Note: you've disabled the parts that recognize your key. If you try and start the car now, it will say "key not recognized - contact service".. don't freak, it will work when its all back together



Use the tiny screwdriver to carefully and gently pry (from the side I am holding, there is a little slot perfect to get a tool into) the window switch pack.



part 2 coming next!
 
#58 ·
remove the one screw holding the back panel on the center console.



I found it was easier to get things apart by sliding the arm rest all the way forward to get it out of the way for this next part.



the panel lifts UP and away. Some force was needed to get the heating duct to pop out. It has some connectors attached, so be careful not to yank it too far. remove the electrical connections here.



Remove the connector to the anntenna/TRW receiver hidden in this rear panel. Now you can put the panel aside.

I started this install, and so far these are great instructions, but my car doesn't have the single screw in the back panel below the armrest like this guy's (different year I guess).

Anyhow, I got the bottom pried up partway but there's apparently some type of tab or other hidden fastener way up under there instead of a simple/accessible screw. I pulled quite hard and started seeing stress discoloration showing up in the plastic in that area. Anybody got this panel off successfully w/o breaking it? Mine's a MY03 if that explains it.
 
#16 ·
This part took me a little while, you have to remove the e-brake boot from the bottom. It takes some jiggling around to rotate the center console top to its side, where you can see the clip holding it on. gently pry with a flathead and pull it out on that side, the other side will slip out when you pull it towards this clip.



back to the rear of the console, two more torx at the bottom.



Two more screws, up front on the sides. Pull away the carpet gently (you might need to remove some of the plastic clips holding the carpet in place first. The screws are tricky to get to, you might also need to move the seats all the way back to get in there. Now you can pull this console piece up and away.




you guessed it. two more torx. These hold the shifter housing on up top.



4 more torx. these hold the shifter housing to the floor. You're almost done!!!



I had a hard time rotating the housing to get at the last bolt on the underside. So I removed these three to get the bracket off and buy me some clearance.



rotate the shifter housing up enough (from the passenger seat) to be able to unclip the electrical connector from the ignition.



I used this combo to try and get in under the housing and undo the shifter from the linakage. See, no need to do anything underhood and screw with the trans! My '04 aero had a 13mm hex bolt, other cars might have a 40 torx(?) This part is tricky, wiggle the housing around until you find a good angle, once you initially "break" the bolt free it turns very easily.



Lift the housing and shift rod out of the car, and the linkage is still in place. much easier this way!

 
#17 ·
flip it over, and undo the screw for the ignition switch. remove the screw for the reverse lock out junk, the spring holding it in, and take out the reverse lock out guts.



With all that stuff out of the way, the other screw for the ignition is accessible. take it out.



carefully pry and pop off the clip holding the ignition, and it will come right out the bottom.



I wrapped the black plastic on the shift knob assembly with some tape to pretect it. I didn't have a vice, but I put a small C_clamp on the bottom of the shift rod, held it really tight, and then put a large wrench on the bottom of the shift knob and tapped it with a hammer to pry the knob assembly up and off the rod so i could transfer it to the new assembly...

I forgot to take a pic, so this will do.

This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is sized 814x730 and weights 195KB.


Here is the new Taliaferro version. use a hex head to loosen the reverse "detente" or whatever it's called.



Note: I'd put the knob on last, so you are sure it's lined up right (yeah I intially put it on wrong and had to adjust it later), but this shows how the adjustment of the reverse "detente" works.

you want it to sit next to the plastic tab that sticks out, so when you go from 5th into 4th, it guides the shifter back left and away from an accidental shift into R at 90mph.



When you pull up on the lever, it bypasses this "detente" and you can still get into reverse.




Be sure to move the ignition back over to the new housing, screw it in and clip it in place. You don't re-install the reverse lock out guts on the short shifter.

The guys at Taliaferro/GS drilled out the side, so you can put it back together 1000x easier than it came apart. I twisted the housing around a little, put the igntition switch connector on, and then got the bolt connecting the rod and linkage started from underneath... then my ratchet just fits in the hole and its super easy to tighten that back up.




Be sure to put the shift knob assembly back on all the way so the reverse detente works as shown above. (the little black tab on the side is down low enough to follwo this metal guide from 5th to 4th unless you pull up to get into R)
MAKE SURE TO ADJUST THIS PROPERLY>>> put the car in fifth to get an idea how close it needs to be to guide the shifter into 4th instead of R. I would test it out parked before driving it to be sure.

To get my shift knob assembly all the way on/down, I held a thick piece of rubber on the knob (to protect it) and used a hammer to tap it gently into place all the way down.

At this point, if you're doing this yourself, you should know how it all goes back together. So I didn't take pics going back the other way. Start with bolting the housing back to the floor and just do the rest in reverse and enjoy!!!!

*note: you may attempt to re-install the Reverse lockout if you have lots of patience.
 
#20 ·
with my limited knowledge, just a query guys...:lol:

I cannot "rush" gear changes at the moment, I tend to have to leave it in neutral for a very short pause, before engaging the next gear. Does this mean something is on the way out, or needs adjusting ? I would assume that the shortshifter gives quicker gear changes, which I cant see working with my current gearbox/ clutch combo..:cry:

cheers
 
#21 ·
Great write up !!! Can't wait to get one. You mentioned that you can put the reverse lock guts back in with patience, does GS say it will work with it re-installed or just your guess

What Year car, did you change to the proper gearbox oil? early cars had the wrong stuff and the newer stuff fixed it right up ( if not you may need the trans update kit installed) and no, a short shifter will make it harder to get into gear!
 
#27 · (Edited)
bump because it took me forever to find this thread again with abdukted1456's excellent write-up (used it for two cars now) using the google search even though I knew the thread was titled "Short Shifter".

If i sticky is ever made with links to threads with good write ups in them this one should definitely be in it :D
 
#35 ·
Yes I'm really interested in the length of the throws and the overall feel as well. I've had the SAAB savior for about 3 years now and while the throws are very short, it's difficult to get adjusted properly. Reverse is even more of a pain at times than with the stock shifter; you have to shift into 3rd first and then go for reverse sometimes. 2nd gear is not straight down but kindof a down and slightly right in an arc; it's hard to describe. It seems to get out of adjustment after a time too and I have to go back in and line everything up when the gears just seem like they are binding more than usual. According to Nick on the GS site the throws are not as condensed as the SAAB savior one, but if it's smooth and doesn't bind it may be a better solution overall...

Cheers.
 
#37 ·
This thing rocks! Giant thanks to Abdukted156 for an excellent writeup. I didn't re-use the Reverse Key Lock either since the bottom end of the gear stick actually goes much lower. That and I always leave manual cars in gear!

Again... Great write up but I have one tiny suggestion ;)

You don't have to use screwdrivers to remove the ash tray/storage bin or windows switch pack. Once you remove the leather skirt around the shifter you can apply pressure on the bottom of the tray and push it out. And if you remove the little coin slot above switch pack and use your fingers to push it up.

All in all it took me 2 hours to do which included re-doing a good bit of the trim since I lost the power lock button wire on the first go.

Drives like it should have from the very beginning!
 
#38 ·
07 aero possible GS shortshifter install

Question for those who has the GS shortshifter installed for several years, do you need periodic adjustment? I'm not mechanically hands-on at all, just want to survey the durability prior to having GS install it along with the tranny mount in 3 weeks or so...
 
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