Short shifter
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3,962 Posts
Yes a big curved rasp or file will do the job but power tools are so much more fun.;ol;
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3,962 Posts
a little surprise for me
Although I fell in love with the GS short shifter right from the get go I didn't love the metal on metal clunk I was experiencing when shifting 1 into 2 and 3 into 4, all other gears were solid and there was no clunk.
At first I thought it was just the way the shifter was supposed to behave/feel and that although somewhat annoying it was kind of a sporty feel. After a week of living with it I decided that there was definitely something amiss.
After some procrastination I finally dug back into the console, I tore it all out again and discovered a few things:
1) In the Saab stock format the shifter rod has a piece of rubber hose on the shaft between the base of the shifter bearing and the linkage connector. The purpose of the hose is to cushion any contact between the underside of the console housing and the shifter rod, simple and effective.
2) The GS shifter as delivered has no rubber hose and the GS instructions don't mention installing one as far as I can see.
3) Because the GS shifter rod is longer below the bearing (that is how geometrically you get a shorter shift throw on top by having a longer throw underneath) the rod was striking the body/casting of the bearing console hence the metal on metal clunk.
4) There was going to be a bit of work to fix this...
I did two things, I installed a piece of rubber hose on the shaft below the bearing and I ground off the offending piece of the console body that the shift rod was making direct contact (CLANG!) with.
I am in love with the GS/Taliaferro short shifter again!!!
Question: Am I the only one that has had this experience? I can’t imagine this condition would be specific to my car but maybe I’m wrong.
Anyway, just a heads up to anyone that takes on this project that doesn't want to re-do the whole job a second time like I had to.
.
Although I fell in love with the GS short shifter right from the get go I didn't love the metal on metal clunk I was experiencing when shifting 1 into 2 and 3 into 4, all other gears were solid and there was no clunk.
At first I thought it was just the way the shifter was supposed to behave/feel and that although somewhat annoying it was kind of a sporty feel. After a week of living with it I decided that there was definitely something amiss.
After some procrastination I finally dug back into the console, I tore it all out again and discovered a few things:
1) In the Saab stock format the shifter rod has a piece of rubber hose on the shaft between the base of the shifter bearing and the linkage connector. The purpose of the hose is to cushion any contact between the underside of the console housing and the shifter rod, simple and effective.
2) The GS shifter as delivered has no rubber hose and the GS instructions don't mention installing one as far as I can see.
3) Because the GS shifter rod is longer below the bearing (that is how geometrically you get a shorter shift throw on top by having a longer throw underneath) the rod was striking the body/casting of the bearing console hence the metal on metal clunk.
4) There was going to be a bit of work to fix this...
I did two things, I installed a piece of rubber hose on the shaft below the bearing and I ground off the offending piece of the console body that the shift rod was making direct contact (CLANG!) with.
I am in love with the GS/Taliaferro short shifter again!!!
Question: Am I the only one that has had this experience? I can’t imagine this condition would be specific to my car but maybe I’m wrong.
Anyway, just a heads up to anyone that takes on this project that doesn't want to re-do the whole job a second time like I had to.
.
Joined
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1,225 Posts
No your not the only one, I do believe others have experienced this and they used sound deadener to cure the problem.
This is all good info, I hope to do mine over the winter.
This is all good info, I hope to do mine over the winter.
Joined
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1 Posts
Bumpetybump
Hey guys..
Anyone used this short shifter with a quaife 6 speed gearbox ?
Hey guys..
Anyone used this short shifter with a quaife 6 speed gearbox ?
Didn't fix problem with reverse - but great mod
New to SaabCentral – just purchased my first Saab – 07 9-5 - Great thread – could not have done it without the excellent post by abdukted1456 along with contributions by others – many thanks to all.
Getting the bolt off of the bottom of the shift rod was the most difficult – took me about an hour to figure it out. Recommend drilling a hole for access to the bolt as dlague posted– I did that after removal – would definitely have saved me about 59 minutes had I done it before attempting to remove it. Also had trouble removing the reverse key lock out – I just broke it up to get it out – really could not figure out how to remove it without breaking – but good riddance anyway. Used a Dremel tool to grind the aluminum – worked well using the Dremel cutting bits – but needed three bits to complete the job. The tungsten carbide bit was useless. Felt like I was a dentist drilling teeth when I was grinding the aluminum. Because of Bob3000’s post, I added ½” I.D. rubber heater hose around the shift rod underneath the bushing – the stock shifter had it – I used a zip tie to secure it – but made sure the zip tie did not hit any metal when I moved the shifter around. I really struggled with getting the three screws to stay in the housing while sliding the new shifter bushing onto the screws. I used scotch tape to tape the screws in place to the inside of the hole– that was the only way I could do get the short shifter into the hole with the three screws. Got the knob off by sliding a big screwdriver through the bottom of the old shifter, standing on the screwdriver and pulling the knob up – it came right off with a hard pull. Popped the knob, boot and reverse lock out onto the new shifter, aligned the knob and pushed it on. Enjoyed the opportunity to clean the console parts before reinstallation – console sparkles now.
Reverse problem. The primary reason I installed this short shifter was my reverse was very difficult to engage – thought the sloppy stock shifter might have been the problem. If I was on a hill and rolled backwards, it would go into reverse. Level and car not rolling, no go. Could usually get it into reverse when rolling forward as I tapped the brakes to stop, but not always (and not al all after I did the motor mounts). No problem with the rest of the gears – syncros all feel good. Only 85k miles on the car so it seemed like it should not be the transmission. Replaced all motor mounts, including the Taliaferro sport transmission bushing (very worthwhile). Even did the shift linkage bushings on the shift fork that goes into the transmission. Motor mounts and bushings noticeably tightened things up a bit, but did not fix reverse (actually made it harder to get into reverse sometimes. Thus, the shifter project. Shifter is fabulous. Agree with all comments about how awesome it is. But it did not fix my reverse problem. Not having to get into reverse to remove the key is a plus, but it looks like my reverse problem is an internal trans problem. Will put up with it as long as I can, then do clutch and trans together unless someone has another suggestion.
Loving my Saab – and thoroughly enjoying the Saab community. Thanks to all.
New to SaabCentral – just purchased my first Saab – 07 9-5 - Great thread – could not have done it without the excellent post by abdukted1456 along with contributions by others – many thanks to all.
Getting the bolt off of the bottom of the shift rod was the most difficult – took me about an hour to figure it out. Recommend drilling a hole for access to the bolt as dlague posted– I did that after removal – would definitely have saved me about 59 minutes had I done it before attempting to remove it. Also had trouble removing the reverse key lock out – I just broke it up to get it out – really could not figure out how to remove it without breaking – but good riddance anyway. Used a Dremel tool to grind the aluminum – worked well using the Dremel cutting bits – but needed three bits to complete the job. The tungsten carbide bit was useless. Felt like I was a dentist drilling teeth when I was grinding the aluminum. Because of Bob3000’s post, I added ½” I.D. rubber heater hose around the shift rod underneath the bushing – the stock shifter had it – I used a zip tie to secure it – but made sure the zip tie did not hit any metal when I moved the shifter around. I really struggled with getting the three screws to stay in the housing while sliding the new shifter bushing onto the screws. I used scotch tape to tape the screws in place to the inside of the hole– that was the only way I could do get the short shifter into the hole with the three screws. Got the knob off by sliding a big screwdriver through the bottom of the old shifter, standing on the screwdriver and pulling the knob up – it came right off with a hard pull. Popped the knob, boot and reverse lock out onto the new shifter, aligned the knob and pushed it on. Enjoyed the opportunity to clean the console parts before reinstallation – console sparkles now.
Reverse problem. The primary reason I installed this short shifter was my reverse was very difficult to engage – thought the sloppy stock shifter might have been the problem. If I was on a hill and rolled backwards, it would go into reverse. Level and car not rolling, no go. Could usually get it into reverse when rolling forward as I tapped the brakes to stop, but not always (and not al all after I did the motor mounts). No problem with the rest of the gears – syncros all feel good. Only 85k miles on the car so it seemed like it should not be the transmission. Replaced all motor mounts, including the Taliaferro sport transmission bushing (very worthwhile). Even did the shift linkage bushings on the shift fork that goes into the transmission. Motor mounts and bushings noticeably tightened things up a bit, but did not fix reverse (actually made it harder to get into reverse sometimes. Thus, the shifter project. Shifter is fabulous. Agree with all comments about how awesome it is. But it did not fix my reverse problem. Not having to get into reverse to remove the key is a plus, but it looks like my reverse problem is an internal trans problem. Will put up with it as long as I can, then do clutch and trans together unless someone has another suggestion.
Loving my Saab – and thoroughly enjoying the Saab community. Thanks to all.
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