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Discussion Starter #1
Can anyone say what happens if you do the shifter/gearbox alignment without immobilizing the gearbox with a pin? I did this over the weekend - not realizing I was supposed to use a pin in the gearbox. Shifts much better, but now I'm getting a high pitched and faint grinding sound not too dissimilar from the synchros rubbing up against each other when at high speeds (above 55mph) and suddenly take my foot off of the gas pedal.

History: I just bought the car a 1995 900s 2.3L with about 140k. To get it into 5th gear, I had to push front and back a couple of times. Based on the paperwork that came with the car, it'd been like this for nearly the life of the car. Post shifter-alignment, it shifted great, but the whining/faint grinding sound started. Any thoughts or ideas about what this might be?
 

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After redoing the alignment, if it shifts easily between all gears, then there's nothing more that can be done there.

You could also consider doing a trans fluid change. Your car would have used plain old motor oil (non-synthetic), though you could replace that with fancier modern stuff (look up qwikredline's post in 9-5 tech section for GM part numbers).

My 900S made its fair share of whining sounds from the transmission. It's a different final drive ratio than the turbo models. No problems with the transmission for the life of the car (just short of 250,000 mi).
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the suggestions. My concern is that I just bought this car, and it was really tough to get into 5th. I've owned a 900s for years and know what it should feel like. So, it might be botched from being driven for 140k miles that way?? An oil change would probably do it some good, nonetheless.
 

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3rd gear is usually the problematic one on these cars. I haven't heard of a lot of problems with 5th gear. I bet a proper alignment and an oil change would do a world of good. It's amazing how much better it all feels when the shifter is properly aligned. The other thing that would help is upgrading to the newer shift linkage that was introduced in 1997. You have to install a ball pin on the side of the transmission because the new version has an extra arm to stabilize the whole thing, but the new one is supposed to be a huge improvement over the old version.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks Jeremy, for the advice. I've got plenty to do before I upgrade the shift linkage, but if/when things start working, I'll definitely consider it.
 

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THought i'd found Qwikredline's post in 9-5 forum, but it was for automatic transmissions...
PdsDetailsPage
There was a longer thread that I can't find (it should have been stickied!) but here's one:
 

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Discussion Starter #12
EdT - Thanks for finding Qwikredline's post. Do you know if the 1995 900 manual is an F35? Qwikredline/GM seems to be recommending a MUCH different viscosity than Saab originally used.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I've read a slew of postings - it's quite confusing. I THINK it's okay to use this: GM
93165290
- flushing, emptying, refilling...

Can someone who knows confirm please! (1995 900s manual transmission with unknown history)
 

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EdT - Thanks for finding Qwikredline's post. Do you know if the 1995 900 manual is an F35? Qwikredline/GM seems to be recommending a MUCH different viscosity than Saab originally used.
I assume that was a typo. That's in the 9-5 forums, and manual trains in all OG9-3 was pretty much the same one as in the NG900 and OG9-3. (There are differences in driveshaft diameter, but the guts are the same, with a few updates.)

There was a longer thread (I posted in it as well), again about manual trans fluid for 9-5 transmissions. Because the 9-5 used that transmission until 2009, there still is a lot of interest on the 9-5 side about this.

Here it is (pain in the butt to search for):

I've asked mods to sticky it.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thought I'd say how this ended up. Looking through the records for this car, it got a new clutch and flywheel in 1998, and a new shift linkage, shift knob, transmission, and cable by 2002 (not necessarily all at once). Once of the complaints was not being able to shift into 5th and problems getting the key out (so, reverse too).

After I modified the clutch cable with a few washers so that it's engaging at the right position (i know, i need a new clutch soon), I went back to trying to adjust the position of the shift linkage and shift knob. The linkage has too much play to just put it into 4th and adjust (see above). Keeping the shift knob pinned and centered each time: if i cheated the linkage to the right, 1st and 2nd became difficult. Cheating the linkage to the left (driver's side), 5th disappeared. The sweet spot ended up being not all the way to the left, but just a bit toward center from the left - maybe 1/8 inch.

That helped, but i was still having to struggle to get the shifter into 5th. It would go, but it was NOT easy - a lot of pushing and pulling followed by a pop to the right starting from what nearly felt like the top of 4th. not good.

The key: The black nub on the shifter shaft that's supposed to be the 5th gear guide had been beated into a mushroom over the years from previous owners trying to get into 5th. The way it'd go into 5th was to eventually slide under the white plastic guide. I took the risk and filed off a few more millimetres of the black nub.

It worked! I now have the right amount of spring back when moving the shifter in neutral left, below first, and right, below 5th, and the car easily shifts into all of the gears with no grinding synchros or struggle.

here's a pic of the post-shaved part taken from the passenger seat for anyone experiencing this very odd and I presume rare situation. (the black dust is not shavings...it's the shift boot disintegrating from the inside out). Thanks everyone for your help/suggestions.
273693
 
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