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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Symptoms: Lots of play when in gear, and won't go in 1st or 2nd... when I go to shift into second it goes into 4th and if I go to 1st it rolls into 3rd. The slop is side to side... in gear it almost feels like side to side in neutral.

Ok, I am pretty sure the faulty part is the bushing that goes into the gear selector assembly (where the ignition is)....

Before the part failed it was having a very hard time down shifting into 2nd gear and would usually only go in when the car was stopped.... even then it was hard to do. Well, when I went to leave the gas station yesterday, i couldnt get it into 1st or 2nd for the life of me.... I tried EVERYTHING... I couldnt fix it there so I had it towed to my house. I took the shift assembly out today and noticed that the linkage rod had a bushing that was HORRIBLY torn and all deformed.

I am pretty sure this bushing is the problem, but I just want other peoples opinions... here is a picture of it.

The plastic part of the bushing was also busted.
 

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well if its anything like on the 9000 then yes that cuases the issue. exact same thing happened on my friend's 9000 number 2. he swapped out the tranny anyways to repalce the automagic, and yes the busing was ruined and the exact same symptoms that you had. except after i played with it for 20 second i could get it into first (lots of crazy moves). i would imagine the linkage would be very different but still similar somehwat.
 

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I would definatley replace that bushing, but also be sure that the plastic ball is in good shape AND that the rod didn't slide a bit in the shifter coupler. that would also have the same effect- a loss of gears depending on where it slid.

but yes, I would say that bushing has got to be the primary cause. hope you had AAA for the tow! even since I started driving a C-900, I had AAA :lol: used it twice already this year :x
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Well, I just want to give everyone a summary...

IT WORKED... hehe, I replaced the bushing and oh man, it feels like new. It is so crisp now and I cleaned out all of the housing (til it was spotless), installed a brand new key cylinder for my ignition (it was busted), and rebuilt ignition gears and stuff... regreased it and wow.. just incredible. It's like driving a whole different car. :) The bushing was definately toast... I think it cost me like 10 dollars to do... not bad ;)
 

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The failed part IS the front of the shifter assembly. In between the rod and the rubber bushing is a teflon (plastic) rub bushing. Both are available from Eeuroparts. Having said that, I have found they don't always have the two parts together on the same page, so change years if you don't find it easily. If the rub bushing is shredded check the rod for nubs in the chrome finish, and sand/file smooth.
 

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I ordered one from Scanwest (Seattle) yesterday.
It looks like a pretty easy installation; the nylon bushing is split to facilitate installation without disconnecting the shifter rod. Fortunately, the rubber part is in good condition.
The most difficult thing will be removing the old one.
I wonder if a little silicone or synthetic grease would help the new one.
 

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I ordered one from Scanwest (Seattle) yesterday.
It looks like a pretty easy installation; the nylon bushing is split to facilitate installation without disconnecting the shifter rod. Fortunately, the rubber part is in good condition.
The most difficult thing will be removing the old one.
I wonder if a little silicone or synthetic grease would help the new one.
I did mine last year. The rubber was shot after 20+ years, so I replaced both. I removed the shifter housing and rod from the car. That is the only real way to install the rubber bushing. It is "a lot" of work, but it is done for the next 20 years...
If you, or someone else goes that route:
A) Put the car in third gear.
B) Mark the housing relative to the chassis base (sharpie)
C) Scribe on the shifter shaft by the trans clamp couple clocking(scribe).

That way you can put it all back and it will be back in in the ball park.
Be careful of the rubber firewall boot on reassembly. That baby has been NLA for a long time.
I used dielectric grease for lube. They sell little packet of the product too (spark plug boot stuff). Less opportunity for the grease to attack the rubber.
 

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I ordered one from Scanwest (Seattle) yesterday.
It looks like a pretty easy installation; the nylon bushing is split to facilitate installation without disconnecting the shifter rod. Fortunately, the rubber part is in good condition.
The most difficult thing will be removing the old one.
I wonder if a little silicone or synthetic grease would help the new one.
Get up to the Covington area and PM me. I have a shifter on the bench and if you want to you can look over the whole thing. I am right by the four corners area.
 
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