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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello guys and gals,

So my exhaust has been making crazy noise recently, and I looked under the car the other day, only to find that the flex pipe between the second cat and the middle resonator is completely severed right after the braiding on the resonator side. I started the car and felt the exhaust gas flying around my hand when I put it close.

Found a couple of replacement parts that look pretty good (aluminized steel or stainless steel) on ebay for less than $90 with shipping and was thinking of doing the job myself as a friend has rails to raise the car safely.

However, I have two questions for the community.
1) Is it ok to drive with a busted flex pipe? Does it do any damage to either the turbo or other parts of the car? When I let go of the gas, it seems like there is crazy backdraw, which vibrates the car some, and it got me a little worried it's going to create additional problems. I have final exams right now so no time to get the job done for another week or so, during which I have to drive some.

2) Despite the cheapness of the flex pipe, I was also considering getting the GS 3" turbo downpipe V2, which replaces the flex pipe too, but I'm not sure I can afford it. Any of you guys have any experience with it? Is it worth spending $600 on it? Do you get more power, better turbo spool-up or improved gas mileage?

Thanks for any advices/help!
 

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My flex pipe was damaged a bit, it sounded like a porsche - loved it. My gas consumption went up tho, cuz I would rev it all the time.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
you can drive with it but get it fixed asap, the fix is around 150 so its up to you, i have an exhaust and i love it ahaha.
Your answer is a bit conflicting. You say it's ok to drive with it, but I should still get it fixed ASAP. Does that mean it does have potential implications for the rest of the car? If so, any clue as to what they are?

Also, would a cat back, like this one do away with the flex pipe? It seems when I look at the pic that it would in fact not, only replacing the middle resonator and back, but I'm not sure.

Thanks for the help, very much appreciated!
 

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Your answer is a bit conflicting. You say it's ok to drive with it, but I should still get it fixed ASAP. Does that mean it does have potential implications for the rest of the car? If so, any clue as to what they are?

Also, would a cat back, like this one do away with the flex pipe? It seems when I look at the pic that it would in fact not, only replacing the middle resonator and back, but I'm not sure.

Thanks for the help, very much appreciated!
Its a drop in back pressure, its not like the turbos going to blow but it sounds like **** and its not going to get any better by sitting there ahaah :p


edit - No the flex pipe is still there you would need a new downpipe to get rid of the flex pipe, the flex pipe is located right under the engine pretty much.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Its a drop in back pressure, its not like the turbos going to blow but it sounds like **** and its not going to get any better by sitting there ahaah :p


edit - No the flex pipe is still there you would need a new downpipe to get rid of the flex pipe, the flex pipe is located right under the engine pretty much.
That makes sense. I'll try to get it done by Monday or so. I don't drive a lot right now so it helps, but when I pass by police cars or old people, I def. get a weird look. Sounds like my car is riced out to the max...

Do you guys think this flex pipe, or this one, are OK replacements, or is it key I go for OEM parts?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
So I went to a couple of shops around town to get quotes.

First place told me that it would be $260, because there was at least an hour of labor there (oh ya, 4 bolts and raising the car on a lift is sooo much work).

Second place was not as dishonest, but they charge $190 for the part. Labor's only $45, so they acknowledge at least that it's a max for 30min of work (and I'm being generous here).

So I'm gonna go pick up a set of RhinoRamps at Advanced Autoparts and do the job myself in the end. It'll save me money and the ramps will pay for themselves in the first use.

Mechanics really are out of control with their prices, it's pretty shocking.
 

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First place told me that it would be $260, because there was at least an hour of labor there (oh ya, 4 bolts and raising the car on a lift is sooo much work).
One hour of labor? They were pretty honest with you. Those bolts are a major PITA when they are old! The bolts are too close to the body to allow easy access for power saws, and the closeness makes use of a torch tricky too.

The one hour probably inlcudes the time it requires to rinse the dirt and rust out of their eyes after doing the job. Exhaust system work is no fun. :(
 

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If your leak is after ALL O2 Sensors (mainly the first one, the second one just makes sure the cat is working and does not change the A/F ratio) there will be ZERO detrimental problems to your engine. Turbocharged engines always have a fair amount of backpressure, the exhaust impeller causes pressure. That being said, you could have noxious fumes entering your cabin which is dangerous. If you don't have the cash now, don't worry about it. If the leak is BEFORE the O2 sensors, get it fixed ASAP as it can affect your A/F ratio.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
One hour of labor? They were pretty honest with you. Those bolts are a major PITA when they are old! The bolts are too close to the body to allow easy access for power saws, and the closeness makes use of a torch tricky too.(
I believe you that it's not fun (and will find out in a few days), but why assume by default that the bolts will not be functional?

After all, they have never been unscrewed since the car was made. Sure they're rusty, but they'd have to be rusty through and through for them not to come out.

And even if they were, using a small metal saw to cut 4 bolts takes a matter of minutes.

Are you in the business of repairing cars by any chance ;)

there will be ZERO detrimental problems to your engine(
I hope so. The biggest issue I found so far is that the ECU adjusted the idle RPM (from ~800 to ~1200) after the car decelerated while left in gear. So I've tried to change my habit of using engine brake and, the second I take my foot off the gas, to shift to neutral.

Not a good habit and maybe not necessary, but the sound it makes when the RPM falls is not comforting, and the fact that the ECU adjust the idle after is a sign that it sensed something was going on, maybe air rushing into the exhaust?
 

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I had a severed flex pipe (the one under the gear selector) for almost 2 years and was completely drivable. Finally had it fixed at a local shop, they did it for $100 with the material & labor, the job took an hour. The part was not OEM but a basic flex pipe, they cut, fit, weld, viola~

The car is quiet.

Just so you know and what you should expect when you go to these shops that might rip you off. Ain't rocket science
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Wow, $100 is a little more than I paid for the non-OEM part, without labor. You got a pretty sweet deal Kobe.

But I think you're right, I'll be ok until I get it fixed, hopefully in two days if the part makes it and the weather allows for the work to get done.
 
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