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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all, been a while since my last posting but had too ask. So with serpentine belts, can it be done in a drive way with a jack and stands or this a engine pulling job. Looking at the engine on Saabrina, it looks too tight to fit a hand in to get anything done which is a bit discerning. Do I have to hoist the engine out to get this replaced or what now? Also, if I do have to take it to a shop, about how much should I expect for the belt to cost and labor hours? Anyone have a clue? Thanks all for looking over this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I did mine in less than an hour with a floor jack. I removed the top engine mount bracket to make it easier to access.
So is it relatively easy for a semi-newbie DIY mechanic? I have a jack and stands but how difficult is it to do? I'd rather not have to pull the belt and realize I bricked my car if I can't get it to go. Thanks for the word though.

And Saab95er, thanks for the posting, same question to you though. I know it's a step by step, but when actually doing it is it simple enough? I can do general maintenance like brakes, rotors and the like but never done belts. I think I may be over thinking it and working myself up but I'd just like to know from people that have seemed to done it before the degree of difficulty.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Also, like I said I've never done belts, does the serpentine belt need to be aligned or is that only timing belts. I know I've seen before on other make/model sites that not lining the belt up right will kill the motor. Is that only timing belts or all belts? I'm just very leery of the whole thought being that this is my only car. Luckily I've got the motorcycle for this kind of stuff.
 

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Once you support the engine and remove all the necessary parts to get to it and lock the tentioner open it's very easy to line the belt up and replace. Some folks have done this without supporting the engine and got away with it. I recommend supporting the engine.
And Saab95er, thanks for the posting, same question to you though. I know it's a step by step, but when actually doing it is it simple enough? I can do general maintenance like brakes, rotors and the like but never done belts.
 

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The serpentine belt is only an auxiliary belt, so no timing or line up, just make sure the grooves are correctly positioned on all the pulleys, but keep in mind that the water pump and belt tensioner have no grooves, so the back of the belt is designed to ride on these surfaces.
 

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the most difficult part for me was getting the new belt to go in the right places i used a long thin piece of wood to poke it down till it was in position so i could get it on the pulleys .
Make sure you get the right belt and replace the small top idler pulley ,there are 4 belt sizes the short one with no ac ,the short one with ac ,the long one without ac ,the long one with ac :eek:
 

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I just did this

Replacing the serpentine belt was just one task on my list of 300,000 mile Major Maintenance work. Replace the top idler pulley and the belt at 60K mile intervals, replace the tensioner and center idler at 120K mile intervals. I drove the car up a set of ramps, and used a block of wood on a floor jack to support the engine by lifting against the oil pan.

In the US we only have two belt length choices, short or long, since all US spec cars came equipped with air conditioning. I endorse use of the long belt. I have experienced no failures using Goodyear Gator-back belts, I had a Continental brand belt break a cord long before 60K miles of use. My experience with Continental belts on the 2.3t engine is somewhat common.
 

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to be honest i think the uk spec cars all have ac/cc as well ,but when you buy them online they do give you four options ,i changed mine back to a long belt ,!
G/m in there economy drive fitted the short one in the 60000 mile service ,but they left the centre idle pulley on so when i put the long belt back in i just slipped the belt over it and it was fine ;ol;
 
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