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Discussion Starter #1
hi, i have a 2005 saab 9-5 aero manual, over the last year it's developed an issue that is more annoying than a concern. it seems to be difficult to to select all gears although they all do select, the car drives fine, and it seems to have no loss in terms of power in all gears. but it has all the hallmarks of a failing clutch? it's been over a year now and i've been using the car as normal so i would have expected it to give up completely if it were the clutch failing, so i'm lost for what could be the issues. no unusual noises coming from the engine or gearbox and clutch pedal seems the same as it always has been. so i'm hoping people with better knowledge than me can give me an idea of what it might be.
 

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Check engine/transmission mounts. If they are loose, you will have difficulties to select gears.
 

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I have similar with my 2004 Aero. Difficulty in selecting any gear, incl. rev., especially after its been idling in neutral for a minute or so e.g. at the lights. I can force it in and no doubt grind a bit off something, or stop the engine and its fine.

However its inconsistent. It might do it one day and then not for ages, even if I do let it idle in neutral.

I'm no clutch expert but I visualise the clutch surfaces not fully separating, so the driven plate is spinning when I try selecting.

I've done the gear linkage align thing, replaced the gearbox torque arm rear bush (shot. I could push it out with my thumbs), replaced the gearbox linkage, and had the gearbox oil changed - no change. I have a clutch kit ready to go but its not irritating enough to spend the £ yet. I guess I've got used to selecting 1st soon as I stop, and de-clutching.
 

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Every manual transmission 9-5 I have owned benefits greatly from a manual transmission fluid change, depending on the mileage and how dark the fluid is on some cars a two or three fluid change over the course of a few months/miles/kilometers.

You will notice improved shifting ease and accuracy.

Use GM synthetic MTF.
.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
is it a easy job to change the gearbox oil? i was actually wondering if this might help so i'm pleased someone suggested it. with my issue going on for over a year surely it can't be my clutch?
 

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It isn't particularly easy but it can be a "do it yourself" job.

Remove the battery, remove the battery tray locate the fill hole and remove the plug (it is a 8mm hex/allen key fitting) it can be really hard to remove the fill plug and drain plug because more often the not they have never been removed before.

Be sure to get the fill plug out first because if don't and you drain the gearbox first and can't get the fill plug out after you are stuck.

The most important thing is to make sure the hole where you insert the allen wrench is very clean and free of rust and debris because of it isn't you will not get the allen wrench to seat in the hole properly and you rsk stripping the fitting.

The top fitting is best removed with an impact wrench to help break the connection.

The drain fitting is awkward, remove the left front in wheel and snoop around the subframe with a flashlight to locate the plug, once you find it you will notice the space is tight, you will need to find a way to get in there with a stubby allen wrench.

I cut down an allen key wrench to get a 3/4" piece that I insert into a 8mm socket and put in on a breaker bar, on a couple of cars I was sure something was going to break when the fitting all of a sudden breaks loose with a loud crack.

If you have a small torch that has pin point focus that you can apply heat with it will help.

I think the fittings are super hard to get out because they are dissimilar metals and seize up.
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Discussion Starter #8
It isn't particularly easy but it can be a "do it yourself" job.

Remove the battery, remove the battery tray locate the fill hole and remove the plug (it is a 8mm hex/allen key fitting) it can be really hard to remove the fill plug and drain plug because more often the not they have never been removed before.

Be sure to get the fill plug out first because if don't and you drain the gearbox first and can't get the fill plug out after you are stuck.

The most important thing is to make sure the hole where you insert the allen wrench is very clean and free of rust and debris because of it isn't you will not get the allen wrench to seat in the hole properly and you rsk stripping the fitting.

The top fitting is best removed with an impact wrench to help break the connection.

The drain fitting is awkward, remove the left front in wheel and snoop around the subframe with a flashlight to locate the plug, once you find it you will notice the space is tight, you will need to find a way to get in there with a stubby allen wrench.

I cut down an allen key wrench to get a 3/4" piece that I insert into a 8mm socket and put in on a breaker bar, on a couple of cars I was sure something was going to break when the fitting all of a sudden breaks loose with a loud crack.

If you have a small torch that has pin point focus that you can apply heat with it will help.

I think the fittings are super hard to get out because they are dissimilar metals and seize up.
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thankyou, it helps a lot when people who have done the job can offer tips from experience, very much appreciated.
 

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If the shifter is sticky, it can't hurt to check the shifter alignment. It may not be the reason, but it can't hurt, and if your engine mounts are getting worn it may need an alignment anyway. Plenty of info on shifter alignment. Also double-check that both linkage rods are present on the shifter. It should be pretty obvious if one or both are loose or missing.

The two tricks to gearbox oil change are:
  1. Getting the fill and drain plugs out
  2. Getting the right fluid
There are a quite a few guides to doing this. Personally, having tried on my NG900 (similar setup), I leave it to a mechanic. The plugs are in TIGHT and it's hard to get leverage as they are blocked by bits and pieces.

For the fluid, search here for qwickredline's posts a year or two ago. You want a specific GM fluid. You'll need two litres.
 

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For the fluid, search here for qwickredline's posts a year or two ago. You want a specific GM fluid. You'll need two litres.
This stuff I think, QRL might agree.

 
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