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Discussion Starter #1
upon fixing the lightswitch dilema i have come across another question i need to post here. My 1994 900t vert has power seats. all seems to be in working order except the recline. when i recline the drivers seat only the left side of the seat reclines. when i attempt to recline the passenger side only the right side reclines. Is this normal. Definately not comfortable but i find it wierd that it is similar on both sides. Any suggestions?
 

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I'd suspect that the motor acts on one side only and the other is expected to follow suit. If it doesn't, there's either a linkage broken/disconnected or there's sufficient corrosion / rust jamming the mechanism.
 

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Jeff:

I saw soooo many of these when I was shopping for my 'vert. There are cables that move the seats when actuated by the motor. They are connected with plastic connectors at some point in the system, and these little plastic pieces give out at 6 or 7 years, it seems; sometimes the cables themselves are to blame (maybe later models had better connectors?). The symptom is always that the outside part of the seat still 'works', but the inside doesn't move because the cable is no longer connected to anything. Most of the time, these seats don't really sit straight even when the seat isn't reclined. A couple of cars that I looked at immediately started to sag even more when I sat in the car.

Man, I love my manual seats.

Search the board for "power seats" or "recline" -- could be some good stuff here, who knows?
 

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Jep on the 900 Tech help is a thread how to solve this problem.
I think indeed the plastic pipe is broken. I dismatled 3 9000 seat to use the electrics on my car, but the reclining mechanism is just a little different :cry: (So I have to figure out something.
Replacing the broken parts (whatever it is on the electrics) is easy as a pie. Just take the seat out, turn it upside down, and it will be an open book for you.

Anyone having any idea how to turn my manual folding seat into electric?? :( Got all the electric parts (even memory), but do really need in the reclining dept..

Cheers
Blacky
 

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Discussion Starter #5
hey guys thanx for the help im tackling the job as we speak. i think ive located the plastic section but nothing seams to be broken. Ive looked in the tech help section but only seams to have repair instructions for the heated portion of the seats and not the reclining issue. If you could post a link to the reclining issue that would be great. i will post some picks in a sec as soon as i get the digital camera figured out. maybe someone can point me to the solution lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
ok no luck with the camera but i did locate the problem. as everyone has suggested it is the linkage in the cable.
ion the left side (drivers side of the passengers seat the plastic coating/tube the cable runs in is broken in two places and the cable was exposed. i tugged on the cable and it pulled right out of the gear housing (not the motor housing) with little effort. the cable doesnt appear to be broken
 

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Discussion Starter #7
ok job complet on the pass. side. i definately used some inginuity on that repair. I will post the pics on here tomorow night along with a list of the materials i used and problems i encountered.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Before
You can see the left cable (just left of my finger) has cracked allowing the inside cable to pull out of the gear housing.

After replacing
Its even shiny. Took it out for a test drive and it works great. I cant imagine why i didnt fix this sooner. total time approx 3hrs but it could be quicker with the correct tools.
After
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Heres a better shot of the assembly.
and yes thats copper plumbing tube. i thought it would be sturdier and hold up better than that cheap plastic cable tube. I also took apart the gear housings and made sure they were lubricated. To do this i had to cut off some rivits and I chose to replace them with screws and bolts just in case. Oh and i used jb weld to hold adhere the copper tubing together. (my soldering sucks)

Closer pic
 

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Jeff:

Great-looking repair!! Love the copper solution -- permanent!

Maybe I will upgrade to the electric seats after all -- nah! I like the manual seats best.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
some of the parts i found on my driver side are labled recaro... Did just supply the gearing/motors., or were the seats built by recaro?
 

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Another easier seat cable fix

I wanted to comment on replacement of
the seat adjustment cables on my '93 Saab 900. The plastic covers become
brittle and break allowing the cable inside to slip out of the gear drive. I
went to my local Saab Dealer to purchase 2 replacement cables only to
discover that they wanted $90.00 for the cover and $85.00 for the cable
(to replace the 4 covers and cables would have been over 600.00!!!
Instead I got 18\" of 1/2\"OD (3/8 ID)vinyl tubing and 2 hose clamps.
Lube the hose with grease or light oil, and slide the broken sections of
the old cable cover into the tubing and secure the ends with the hose
clamps. The cables work fine and the total cost was only $3.00 per cable. If you want you can also build a plastic version with 18" of poly tubing, and a 1/2"x3/8 pipe thread to hose bib connector. Drill out the ends of the hose bib to fit over the ends of the drive motor, slide a piece of 1/2" vinyl tubing over the hose bib end and insert the poly tubing inside the vinyl, secure the whole thing with hose clamps or wire ties. It's not pretty but it works.
 

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Hey, does anyone know what size copper tubing Shaverjeff used?
Looks like a nice perment repair. ;) I'd like to give it a try.
Cheers
 

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The crucial thing is, if the cable pushes as well as pulls {ie. there's no return spring or anything}, then the cable tube must be close in size to the cable diameter. Otherwise the cable will just bunch up in 'push' mode. Look at the old cable tube for dimensions.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
i dont remember the size i used i think it was 3/8" ill see if i have any extra lying around or ill go measure it in my car if i can reach it...i remember i bought some nift couplers too and modified the plastic couplers on the motor to fit it all together.
 

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ok i just went and measured its 3/8" copper. and i think the coupler was 3/8 to 1/2"
I assumed that's what it was, I have another question for you now though.

Is it 3/8 outside diameter or 3/8 inside diameter? I know, details, details. :lol:

I dropped by the hardware store on the way home tonight and picked up a roll of flexible copper tubing size 3/8 and 10 ft long. Turns out they have a 3/8 inside diameter and a 3/8 external diameter.

One is about $12 the other about $28 for a 10 ft roll. Of course I grabbed the $28 one by mistake :roll: , I think I got the 3/8 inside diameter one. They didn't have any on the shelf so I had to climb up to the top of the shelf and sort through the spare stock to find the 3/8 size, that might be why I ended up getting the wrong side. Nothing like clinging to the side of a scaffolding like shelf with one hand and trying to sort through and find the right size with the other and. I didn't want to end up like Dean on here did. :confused:

I’m guessing its probably the 3/8 outside diameter size, that would make the most sense especially if you used a 3/8 to 1/2 coupler.

Hey thanks for going to the trouble of measuring that. :D I think I'll give it a try tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Yeah i have the 3/8 outside diameter the whole point was getting the best for the least amount of money :D . I was more than hapy to measure it because it was the second time i ever got to use my awsome micrometer thingy. how couldi live without that!Anyway i spent all day underneath my car today anyway prepping the tranny for removal anyway. Keep us posted on your progress!
 

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Help.

Micrometers are cool. :cool: :D

I'll right, I've got the seat out. The plastic cable was broken in half in the middle on both sides.

I've pulled the motor, cables, and the broken halves of the plastic cable that were on the motor side.

However I cannot figure out how to get to the two corner parts (gear housings??)? How did you remove those Jeff? :confused:

Also the 3/8 to 1/2 coupler wont' fit the motor so maybe it was the motor that you had to use 5/8 on. I'll have to go back and see if I can find a 3/8 to 5/8 coupler, that looks to be about the right size.

Cheers,
Matt

:edit: I've got it figured out. :D Cheers
 
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