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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys


First off; this is my first Saab and I absolutely love it. It drove across Denmark and Sweden without missing a beat, and my daily drive to work leaves me with a big smile on my face. I'm pretty sure I've improved my productivity haha.

Anyway, every once in a while, when I turn the key, the starter(I THINK) screeches as the car comes on. It sounds like when you crank a car thats already running. A sort of grinding noise.

How concerned should I be? Is it a common error, is it dangerous to the engine, why doesnt it always do it? I didn't do it when I first got the car, but now every once in a while it screeks loudly when I crank it.

I'm not entirely sure if it's the starter, but it sounds like it.


I hope you can help.

PS: Thanks for the warm welcome when my headlight failed, you guys are awesome.
 

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I would be concerned.

This is not a common symptom of either the earlier Bosch starters (to 2002 model year) or Mitsubishi starters (2002-on).

What year is the car, and is it manual or automatic transmission?

Anyway, going by your description, the gears on the starter and the flywheel sometimes do not engage properly. Whatever the cause it, like I said, it is not usual. Which makes me think that further damage or total failure may be next.

I would say that the starter would have to be removed to make further diagnosis.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I would be concerned.

This is not a common symptom of either the earlier Bosch starters (to 2002 model year) or Mitsubishi starters (2002-on).

What year is the car, and is it manual or automatic transmission?

Anyway, going by your description, the gears on the starter and the flywheel sometimes do not engage properly. Whatever the cause it, like I said, it is not usual. Which makes me think that further damage or total failure may be next.

I would say that the starter would have to be removed to make further diagnosis.
Hello

I talked to a mechanic back home, who told me I shouldn't be worried. I am now haha.

It's a 2000 Aero Manual. By total failure, do you mean starter failure, or complete engine failure?
 

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I might had the same the problem (Bosch, 260tkm) and think it might be a problem with starter gear not flipping back fast enough or the free wheel mechanism not working properly. (old starter not further diagnosed or disassembled).
It could be provoked by engaging the starter / turn the key only for a very short time so that the starter runs but the engine does not start. In that case it is easier to extract the noise. The sound suggests that the starter is still running also the key is not turned anymore. Usually the starter gear should flip back immediatly.
Get a good used one and replace the old one. While doing that clean the connector of the wiring harness and the screw on the starter. When the starter is out there is a chance to easily exchange the oil pressure switch which most probably will fail/leak sooner or later (if it hadn´t been replaced lately).
 

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Hello

I talked to a mechanic back home, who told me I shouldn't be worried. I am now haha.

It's a 2000 Aero Manual. By total failure, do you mean starter failure, or complete engine failure?
Did the mechanic actually listen to the problem, or did they go by your description?

Also--and I think it's important in these kind of cases--did you ask the mechanic what they thought was the cause of the screeching? And why they thought it wasn't worthy of concern?

To clarify for us, does it screech immediately when you turn the key to START, or does it screech when the engine has started to run on its own?

My guesses were based on the first case, but maybe I read it wrong. However, the second case isn't good either. I think there have been people who have had the starter drive stick, so that the starter did not disengage. Now you have a problem, because the starter gear will get spun at 15 times engine speed. This does not make the starter happy (even though there is a clutch that keeps the motor itself from spinning). It can certainly damage the starter gear, and possibly damage the ring gear on the flywheel. And if something fails, you can potentially wedge the engine, which leads to an immediate and possibly catastrophic stop.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I might had the same the problem (Bosch, 260tkm) and think it might be a problem with starter gear not flipping back fast enough or the free wheel mechanism not working properly. (old starter not further diagnosed or disassembled).
It could be provoked by engaging the starter / turn the key only for a very short time so that the starter runs but the engine does not start. In that case it is easier to extract the noise. The sound suggests that the starter is still running also the key is not turned anymore. Usually the starter gear should flip back immediatly.
Get a good used one and replace the old one. While doing that clean the connector of the wiring harness and the screw on the starter. When the starter is out there is a chance to easily exchange the oil pressure switch which most probably will fail/leak sooner or later (if it hadn´t been replaced lately).
I'll look into getting a starter. Is an aftermarket starter fine? I'm looking at bildeleshop.dk, and they have quiet a range when I give them my cars registration number. Hella, AS, JP Group, DRI, Eurotech etc. I live super far from any used parts place.

Did the mechanic actually listen to the problem, or did they go by your description?

Also--and I think it's important in these kind of cases--did you ask the mechanic what they thought was the cause of the screeching? And why they thought it wasn't worthy of concern?

To clarify for us, does it screech immediately when you turn the key to START, or does it screech when the engine has started to run on its own?

My guesses were based on the first case, but maybe I read it wrong. However, the second case isn't good either. I think there have been people who have had the starter drive stick, so that the starter did not disengage. Now you have a problem, because the starter gear will get spun at 15 times engine speed. This does not make the starter happy (even though there is a clutch that keeps the motor itself from spinning). It can certainly damage the starter gear, and possibly damage the ring gear on the flywheel. And if something fails, you can potentially wedge the engine, which leads to an immediate and possibly catastrophic stop.
He didn't hear it, no. I'm looking into getting a new starter now. I don't want to **** my engine at all. He was like; "does it start tho? Then it's fine. You can replace a starter later if it breaks." He's a new guy tho
 

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I'll look into getting a starter. Is an aftermarket starter fine? I'm looking at bildeleshop.dk, and they have quiet a range when I give them my cars registration number. Hella, AS, JP Group, DRI, Eurotech etc. I live super far from any used parts place.

He didn't hear it, no. I'm looking into getting a new starter now. I don't want to **** my engine at all. He was like; "does it start tho? Then it's fine. You can replace a starter later if it breaks." He's a new guy tho
Geez, that's like saying "Oil light on? Does the engine still run? That's fine. You can replace the engine later if it breaks."

I don't know European parts sources. We have had a long discussion here about whether the Mitsubishi or Bosch starters are interchangeable. I would go with either of these over an aftermarket one. A properly rebuilt OEM starter would be a good choice, too.

And replacing the oil pressure light switch while the starter is being done is a very good idea.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Geez, that's like saying "Oil light on? Does the engine still run? That's fine. You can replace the engine later if it breaks."

I don't know European parts sources. We have had a long discussion here about whether the Mitsubishi or Bosch starters are interchangeable. I would go with either of these over an aftermarket one. A properly rebuilt OEM starter would be a good choice, too.

And replacing the oil pressure light switch while the starter is being done is a very good idea.
I get your oil light point. I, coming from a Honda background, kinda just nod and smile to any advice from Saab people, so when he said that, I kinda just took it for granted.

I'll see if I can find any good resources on how to change the starter in here. Should I replace the whole shabang? I'll see if I can find a good resource on oil pressure switch too. Hopefully I wont run into any case of the good old "below is a picture of how I did it" followed by a big fat blurred "Photobucket" image hahahaha. I can get used starterengines, but they'll be about 20 years old. Maybe I should just spend the extra on a new one.

I'll see if I can keep my driving to a minimum. IF it does the noise, it's only for about a second, then immediately stops. I'll be biking to work.

Once again thanks to both of you for the swift and helpful replies. I'm never going back to a honda forum.
 

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as you have an automatic, it is highly recommended to disconnect the hard plastic tube from the vacuum pump and the intake manifold. Press the red ring and pull the hard tube at these two connections. This should give you some freedom with tools to disconnect the upper bolt. The hard tube otherwise could brake or at least blocks access.
It might be helpful to disconnect also the black tube from intercooler to throttle, there is a more or less hidden bold under it which connects to the cylinder head.
You could do some research on german ebay about used starters.

As it is an older 2000 car I would go with the original Bosch starter which has more power and revs higher, might get better starting behaviour.
 

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Maybe I should just spend the extra on a new one.

I'll see if I can keep my driving to a minimum.
To me buying a used starter just means you are going to have to do the replacement again sooner then later.

In the meantime parking your car on a small slope and "bump starting" it using the clutch is a good way of not using the starter at all.
.
 

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Discussion Starter #12

as you have an automatic, it is highly recommended to disconnect the hard plastic tube from the vacuum pump and the intake manifold. Press the red ring and pull the hard tube at these two connections. This should give you some freedom with tools to disconnect the upper bolt. The hard tube otherwise could brake or at least blocks access.
It might be helpful to disconnect also the black tube from intercooler to throttle, there is a more or less hidden bold under it which connects to the cylinder head.
You could do some research on german ebay about used starters.

As it is an older 2000 car I would go with the original Bosch starter which has more power and revs higher, might get better starting behaviour.
I see the guide pops up under 9-5 even tho it says 9-3. mb
 

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To me buying a used starter just means you are going to have to do the replacement again sooner then later.
That depends on the quality of the "new" starter. I don't know the quality of parts you can get in Europe, but some of the parts stores rebuilt starters are going to be no better than a used starter. Ditto any cheap import knock-offs.

I think it's like a DIC. A used SEM DIC that works is a much better bet than a brand-new ProParts DIC. Of course the brand new SEM is best of all, but it's the most expensive, too.

If it was me, I would be totally happy with a Mitsubishi in good condition (that's what I'm running in my 9-5), or a Bosch starter with new brushes, which includes the braided copper cable to the solenoid that likes to break. Assuming the starter hasn't been abused, and the commutator segments are in good condition (all of which is easy to check), I don't see why the uses starter would be any less reliable than a new starter.
 
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