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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So how about a step by step on the SAI air pump replacement? If someone has already done this it would be great to have it posted! I havent been able to find one, and I am about to replace it next week. Does anyone know how hard it is? If I can't find someone who can post it I will try to take good pictures as I go and post them with just how I did it. I really hope its not more than I can handle! I replaced the SAI valve and blew air with a compressor while using my shop vac on the other end hoping the pump could be saved, but it is not sucking hardly any air now and the check eng light came on again. I know with my fat hands just getting the hoses taken off to drain the water from the pump was hell! I am not sure how I will manage getting the whole thing out unless there is a trick I am not seeing. I have to take it in to the dealer next week to get a by-pass on the communication unit(onstar) in the trunk that blew ($190.00) and another key fob made($135.00). (down to one and I hear its pretty salty to have the car reprogrammed for all new keys if we loose this one.) So with already having to spend $325.00 plus tax for those I am not looking forward to spending a ton more. Price at the dealer for just the SAI pump is $372.90. Is that a fair price? I have looked a few other places, but havent really found one that would be any cheaper with shipping. I am going to call today when they open to find one what it would cost to have them replace the pump, but this would only be a last option as I would like to save some cash. Any help would be great on how to tackle the pump! Thanks!
 

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Thinking of SAI replacement, you have to replace it along with the valve, otherwise you're risking to ruin it again soon.
As far as the costs, valve run $80-$100, and pump $280-$320 depending on source. That's part only.
For the full job I've been quoted $860 and $785 at the stealers and $680 at the indy.
Ended up paying $400 parts and labor with used pump.

Valve replacement is fairly easy, 2 screws only.
For the pump you to need to raise the car, drop the starter motor,
unhook starter motor cables, pump power, in/out hoses and bolts
(little trickier)

I can post later more detailed instructions if you wish.

KOperformance has the pump for $280 and valve for $92
https://www.koperformance.com/online_ordering/show_part/197305-12791957-150
http://www.koperformance.com/online_ordering/show_part/200262-12791285-150
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thinking of SAI replacement, you have to replace it along with the valve, otherwise you're risking to ruin it again soon.
As far as the costs, valve run $80-$100, and pump $280-$320 depending on source. That's part only.
For the full job I've been quoted $860 and $785 at the stealers and $680 at the indy.
Ended up paying $400 parts and labor with used pump.

Valve replacement is fairly easy, 2 screws only.
For the pump you to need to raise the car, drop the starter motor,
unhook starter motor cables, pump power, in/out hoses and bolts
(little trickier)

I can post later more detailed instructions if you wish.
I already replaced the valve on Thursday and drained the pump and all the tubes via blowing air in with an air compressor and using my shop vac on the other end to suck it out. I also took off all the tubes first to get as much out as possible.
Even with replacing the valve two days ago you think I would need to do it again? Surely it hasnt go bad already! We havent driven it much, but the check eng light came back on yesterday and I checked to see if there was any suction at the SAI Intake line coming from the air box and there was VERY little. So that leads me to think that the pump is blown and I need to replace it. If you could send me detail instructions on how to replace the pump that would be awesome!
Thanks!!!!
 

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So that leads me to think that the pump is blown and I need to replace it.
Any idea how much water you got? I am always curious as to how much this system will hold once it fails. I'm guessing it's on the order of a pint or so.

The first code you get with SAI failure is usually the low flow code. That means the pump is already not blowing hard enough. Once filled with water, it seems the pump bearing can get wet, and then the game's pretty much over. I think if you act soon enough, you might be able to get the water out and save the bearing, but I can't recall if anyone's been that lucky. Like I said, the first code you get is typically the one indicating your pump is already running too slow.

The check valve won't go bad even if the pump is still bad. The valve will actually stop water from refilling the pump. Let it fill long enough and it can backflow into the airbox, soak the air filter, etc. You really don't want a soaked air filter blocking air flow or letting water get sucked into the engine. Check valves seem to be good for 50-75k miles. Mine is at 70k right now. I inspect it EVERY time I pop the hood.
 

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Ctrlz:

I have opened 2 pumps, trying to fix them.
Both were filled up with dirt and soot.
After a while pump struggles to perform and eventually
melts inside.

Here's the motor from one of the pumps I have
with the solenoid completely rotted out:



Anyway I transplanted some parts from the other one I have
and managed to put it back to life, but I damaged the bearing
and don't have time to find the replacement.

This is how Pierburg (pump manufacturer), protects its business
by making these pumps non-serviceable,
Same Pierburg pumps you will find in
BMW, Volvo, Mercedes, Audi, GM and many other, but there is
always a small difference in design between the make so you can't
transfer parts.
I noted different motor mounting, dimensions, inlet/outlet location etc.

Bottom line, it is not worth to service this thing. It's several hours of
the effort with no guarantee.
The only reasonable and easy fix would be to replace entire motor housing,
but you can't really find the replacement while being able to remount it properly in the original housing.
 

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Well that's just a disaster.
Is this dirt picked up from under the car, you think?
I always thought these pumps would last until they got wet. Now it looks like they can fill up with crud and seize.
 

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Well that's just a disaster.
Is this dirt picked up from under the car, you think?
I always thought these pumps would last until they got wet. Now it looks like they can fill up with crud and seize.
The pump and the loop itself is sealed pretty tight.
If any condensations gets in, it causes shorts and builds up crud,
to the point where motor is filled with it and can no longer spin.

I have more detailed pictures, will post them later.
Also, I have found a pump which is very similar
and costs $80 (Adelco replacement), so motor swap,
might be worth a shot, but at this point I don't feel like
spending money just for a research.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·

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AC Delco 77$ replacement on Amazon Prime!!!

If you are looking for an affordable replacement buy AC Delco 215-610. Use the original bracket and wiring from your saab pump and replace. Exactly the same part!! Good Luck
 

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Several people have.
 
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