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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I got the error code: P0410 a while ago. I found out what it means and what the system does, but is there any real use in fixing it. Besides saving the planet that is... Can it actually cause any bigger problems for the engine/car for any reason?

If so, whats the best way to go about fixing it/most cost effective?
 

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Fixing the SAI

See my post at: http://www.saabnet.com/tsn/bb/9-5/index.html?bID=228650. [I would disconnect the power to the air pump immediately until you replace the anti-backflow valve(s). Hope it is not already killed. See the pictures below.] If you have a V6 there are two valves. My parts were about 100 list each, but I got at wholesale. If the car sets ANY codes, you can't get cleared in VA state inspections. SAI is pretty useless, but there is no way to disable without getting codes set. The air pump is a 325 list part. Mine was cheaper, but if the impeller is broken, the air pump will be dead. If you can save it, do so, but check on the status of the filter in the air pump. The filter is NOT a repair part either.

Pics at: https://picasaweb.google.com/111335...SAISystemRepair?authkey=Gv1sRgCPjO0J6Z2tPC7AE#

Feel free to ask any further questions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Is there any reason not to just disconnect this entire system? I see no logical reason to keep it running, other than emissions testing which i don't believe this will cause it to fail in Maine.
 

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Disconnecting SAI

Is there any reason not to just disconnect this entire system? I see no logical reason to keep it running, other than emissions testing which i don't believe this will cause it to fail in Maine.
From what I have found, the only reason was to pass emissions testing. The car could otherwise care less. If it is not working,you will have to live with a constant P410 code which could mask another problem. VA does not allow ANY CEL codes for passing. Check with your testing folks on the rules in Maine.

By pumping (injecting) air into the exhaust, it heats the CAT up faster so the car meets emissions standards. It only runs for 45 seconds or so when starting under 86 degrees (or not restarted in 15 minutes).

Don't think it was in any MY after 2003. If I were in Maine, I'd not have fixed it either except I don't like lights on the dash.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yeah thats the only think, having the check engine light on perminently bothers me a lot. I wonder though if the system can be safely removed from the car, while not confusing the car constantly. Finding a way to do it while making the car not randomly run rich for 15 seconds, or whatever would need to be done. Removing the code completely is an important part.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Would the computer even need to be modified? I wonder if unplugging and removing the system would just cause the computer to calculate that it was never there.
 

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I'm thinking you will need to mod the computer. I do not tune myself, but if I was considering this I'd seek out some advice from Central user "mike d". Don't think he's on here much, try sending him a pm.
Depending on your location in Me. he may not be too far from you
 

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P410 Code Removal? - probably not.

Yeah thats the only think, having the check engine light on perminently bothers me a lot. I wonder though if the system can be safely removed from the car, while not confusing the car constantly. Finding a way to do it while making the car not randomly run rich for 15 seconds, or whatever would need to be done. Removing the code completely is an important part.
Unless you can completely reprogram the code that looks for CAT temp and correlates that with O2 readings, I think you can't just remove it. It seems to be a composite of the CAT temp along with the O2 sensor readings. The whole idea of this system was to burn the XS fuel injected on startup and reduce readings by getting the CAT to full operating temp faster. It only operates 45 seconds or so and may also be controlled by the ECU based on readings. Once the backflow valves fail, exhaust gets back to the "pump" and the moisture either freezes or the filter degrades and gets sucked into impeller like mine. B Millar's experience was same and I did my repair based on his posting that I have somewhere The fuse (40A) for the pump is the same as main blower, so if your blower is working, pump may still be OK. I'd disconnect if now if it is OK. Still check the filter inside though. It's a crap design by GM.:(

I just looked it up at one of the suppliers I sent you and they will ship 2 valves ( 12791285 ) for just over $145. The other wants $180; both are with shipping. The valves list for $98 and change.

Air pump ( 4571147 ) runs from $245.18 at one to over $313 shipped. Best prices from "online". See the PM I sent you. If you order all at once, the shipping would maybe be better. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
i find it very hard to convince myself to open my wallet into this money pit. Terrible car in almost every single facet. But I guess there is no other option if I would like it to keep running....
 

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Sentiments Fully Understood

I fully understand your thoughts. At times, I've been pretty irritated with the car since I we bought it in 2000, but I do like how it drives and although I've had problems, they don't seem to be as bad as some others have had. My relatively "young" car (117K miles) is now close to timing belt replacement and I'm trying to decide if I should attempt myself or have my Indy do it. I intend to keep it running as long as parts are there and then there are salvage yards like Goldwing.

The V6 does not have the same issues as the I4 and I switched to fully synthetic a while ago, but the peripherals are going to be about the same as the other cars where they are shared. I've been able to start doing much of my own repair work due to this board and the other. I also use the WIS for directions.

Good luck with whatever decision you make.
 
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