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That may confirm what 9-5r is saying, that old worn out inner bushings on those arms cause the back end to sag. I saw that eSaabparts is carrying the adjustable arms now, as well as RockAuto.
I think I'm a bit confused by this Jeremy. My understanding is that the adjustable cross stay arms don't have bushings but are fastened with bolts. Where would the bushings 9-5r linked go?
 

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Thay have sleeved rubber bushings pressed into the u shaped joint that connects to the subframe.
Same location as the originals.
272569
 

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Just wanted to share that autohausaz has the OE Lemfoeder lower arms for sale @ 20$ a piece.
 

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Just wanted to share that autohausaz has the OE Lemfoeder lower arms for sale @ 20$ a piece.
If your going to spend the money on those and go the trouble of swapping them out you might be further ahead spending the extra eighty bucks for the adjustable ones.
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Honestly I don't trust the adjustable arms. This is a heavier car compared to the Saturn those were designed for. Plus I'm too lazy to fab a bracket for the level sensor and pull it in for an alignment.. and it's more like an extra 100.
Those same arms are 70-80 apiece at esaab. Killer savings.
 

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It would be soooo good if someone would come up with a simple clamp-on level sensor. That’s the only thing that’s keeping me from buying the adjustable arms
 

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It would be soooo good if someone would come up with a simple clamp-on level sensor. That’s the only thing that’s keeping me from buying the adjustable arms
I bet you could attach level sensors with some good quality stainless steel T-bolt clamps.
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Honestly I don't trust the adjustable arms. This is a heavier car compared to the Saturn those were designed for. Plus I'm too lazy to fab a bracket for the level sensor and pull it in for an alignment.. and it's more like an extra 100.
Those same arms are 70-80 apiece at esaab. Killer savings.
I'm confused, why would you replace the factory ones with factory ones? If you do you are going to do that you'll need an alignment anyway.

Saturn's weigh only 200 pounds less than the 9-5, I'd imagine you would have to drive extremely hard to put enough strain on the adjustable arms to cause a failure.
 

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I'm confused, why would you replace the factory ones with factory ones? If you do you are going to do that you'll need an alignment anyway.
It's just for the bushings. For $20 an arm, it's not worth anyone's time to buy bushings and replace them in the existing arms. The upper arms are still $80 each, so then it starts to look more worthwhile to replace the bushings. 9-5R did say in one of his previous posts that the arms tend to get damaged, though, when you try to replace the bushings.
 

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I'm confused, why would you replace the factory ones with factory ones? If you do you are going to do that you'll need an alignment anyway.
No need for an alignment with just these arms being replaced. The camber auto aligns so long as the "rose" bushings are in good shape and one doesn't unbolt the control arm brackets.
Its really the bushings that are pressed into the arms I'm after. They aren't easily serviceable without damage to the arm itself. I also suspect when they wear out the rear end has less spring support and people start to see slight sagging. For $20 one can't go wrong since the bushing is already installed.
 

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Its really the bushings that are pressed into the arms I'm after. They aren't easily serviceable without damage to the arm itself. I also suspect when they wear out the rear end has less spring support and people start to see slight sagging. For $20 one can't go wrong since the bushing is already installed.
Agree. I think the bushings are only about $4, but the time spent swapping them is much greater than the time spent bolting in a new arm.

Still, do those inner bushings really wear much? And the $20 sale price is less than a dollar off their regular price. Just checked and FCP's regular price on the same thing is $21.xx as well.
 

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Those same arms are 70-80 apiece at esaab. Killer savings.
New springs and shocks, ride height below spec.
New center bushings (pressed in arm) ride height restored. Of course they wear. They support the sprung weight in conjunction with the dampers. Once everything else is worn (75% of cars out there never replace struts and shocks) those center bushings are over stressed and end up drooping a little.
As I've said those arms aren't really serviceable. They sell the bushings, true, but even with the proper tool after 15+ years of use ones more likely to break or bend something, much easier to just throw another arm in but they aren't always cheap. $160 for 4$ bushings isn't practical to most people.
 

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New springs and shocks, ride height below spec.
New center bushings (pressed in arm) ride height restored. Of course they wear.
Sure. Everything wears. Did you also change the outers/rose bushes, with ride height resulting still not in spec? Did you change the inners on the upper arm as well (either by changing the bushing alone or the entire arm)?
$160 for 4$ bushings isn't practical to most people.
If it saves on tires...

And if you're paying somebody for labor, the labor to swap the bushings may start to approach the 160.
 

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Discussion Starter #77
Update: I added 29mm spring spacers from rs73ca on eBay. It brought my rear ride height almost back to factory spec. It took me about 1h to install. Close enough!

LF - 23 1/4"
RF - 23 1/4"
LR - 23 3/4"
RR - 23 3/4"
It took a while, but I finally got my car in for an alignment (the first since I replaced springs and added the 29mm spring spacers).

Great news - the alignment shows that the rear camber was corrected by about 1˚ from -2.4˚ to back within spec at -1.5˚. As this was what got me looking into the problem to start with, I'm pretty happy with the improvement.
 

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It took a while, but I finally got my car in for an alignment (the first since I replaced springs and added the 29mm spring spacers).

Great news - the alignment shows that the rear camber was corrected by about 1˚ from -2.4˚ to back within spec at -1.5˚. As this was what got me looking into the problem to start with, I'm pretty happy with the improvement.
you did the right thing.

Spacers are the way to go. Shims and/or adjustable control arms are a waste of time and money.

GET THE RIDE HEIGHT RIGHT!!!!!!

Then have a good 4 wheel alignment done to WIS specs......

RIDE HEIGHT======= 610mm for aero 620mm for other 17".

TOE IN more critical than camber. TOO MUCH TOE = tire cupping.
 

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DISAGREE!

POLY is prefered for front big bushing on trailing arm.
SPACERS much better than new springs.
I disagree with you.
If polyurethane is actually better than vulcanized rubber in alu/steel frame, all car manufacturers use it.
 
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