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Discussion Starter #1
Hello


I am near Stranraer and have a Saab1.9 Tid estate on a 2006 plate.
AT the weekend we broke down with the symptoms the car having lack of power and not revving properly. The mechanic that came said it was the ERG. Then further diagnostics pointed to the swivel plate for the valves on the inlet manifold having come loose. IN particular the injector number 3. That particular valve was stuck.



I removed the ERG, completely cleaned it out and it seems to be functioning well. Then I removed the number 3 injector and cleaned that out from the outside and also from the inside, so the spray pattern is now visible.
However how can I free the Swivel valve number 3?
If I have to remove the inlet manifold , so be it but it seems stupid to have to do this. Is there any easier fix?


Thanks in advance
 

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Think we are talking Swirl flaps and EGR valve here.
Its common for the 1.9 TID to gum up badlly enough to jam the swirl flaps and throw the bar.


Best fix is to replace the inlet manifold and remap the car EGR closed swirl flaps fixed open.Then the manifold wont gum up again.
You can remove strip and clean but its a very messy job!


You cant move number 3 swirl flap as it is the controlling part for the rest of the swirl flap mechanism.It is controlled by a motor and connecting rod underneath the manifold.
It will be the flaps either side that will have jammed as the main actuator flap(no 3) has tried to move the others via the rod.


If the car senses a problem with the actuator motor positioning then an error is thrown and limp mode results.


Short term fix is to remove the dumbell connector underneath (just pop one end off) the motor will continue to do its thing but the flaps are disconnected and the car is non the wiser.
Its tricky to get at but can be done.


You can then move the rest of the flaps with a screwdriver to the 10 oclock position.(might be 2 oclock ...if you get this far I will check)

Take a look at the pics of the used part on ebay the dumbell connector is pictured in the middle.


https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vectra-C...516171?hash=item3b35ca3a8b:g:H2cAAOSw8ttdNNl0

 

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Discussion Starter #4
Swivel plate

Thanks CJ Peterborough, I managed to pop off the ball joint. I take it I now need to put that stupid swivel plate back on or can I leave it off?
 

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Put the nipples to 10 oclock and just leave it off...the car wont know and I doubt you will notice any performance difference.
You should probably change the manifold as it will probably be half full of carbon sludge and the car would run better for it.


Any decent performance remap would disable the flap motor and permanently close the EGR..........
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Cranking but not starting

So I manaed to pull off that dumbell connector at one end and set the flaps to 10' Oclock as per your suggestion. The car started but was still the same, in terms of performance. I managed to remover injectors 1 to 3 and cleaned them completely and saw the spray pattern after cleaning. Inserted new injector copper seal and replaced them. Injector number 4 refuses to budge and pop out so I just left it in there.
having put all the fuel pipes back in now and tightened everything up connected back the electrical connections to the injectors and tried to start the car. Ofcourse it refuses to start, cranks fine but no firing.

Any ideas, I think there is fuel getting to the injectors, but it just refuses to start.
 

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It may require up to 1 minute of continuous start to fuel up to the nozzles.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I checked the static voltages , ignition on and engine not cranked. On both wires the voltages were the same, half a volt 0.5v. This I think is supposed to be 12v on one of the wires. This was the same measurement on all the injectors.
Any ideas are welcome.
 

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Check voltages when you crank. There is no voltage when engine is not running (injectors closed).
 
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