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Discussion Starter · #181 ·
New house purchased.
Moved.
Old house on the market.

Now that I had a rolling chassis, the easiest way to move the body of the hot rod was to set it on the chassis. So, I got to have a look into the future of approximately how this thing will sit when it is done.

Remember, I am building a jalopy. A traditional style, hot rod. I channeled the body only 3", the rear of the frame only has a 3" Z in it. And I am not chopping the top. I want it to look like a 50's era hot rod.

The cowl is not sitting down on the frame because the sheetmetal needs to be cut open a bit to fit over the frame.

20201121_123718 by Chad Truss, on Flickr

The garage in the new house is insulated and heated, so I hope to make at least a little progress this winter. But I need to wire the garage for my welder first.
 

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Discussion Starter · #182 ·
I had to come in here and tease a bit. This will help motivate me to get to work.

My new garage is now wired for my 220V welder.
I have built cabinets to keep the crap from fabricating off of things.
I have built a rack to hold my snow tires.

Pic for attention:
Tire Rack by Chad Truss, on Flickr

The only thing I have left to do is remove a small pile of construction debris. Then I will have plenty of room to resume my build. I hope in the next week or so, to have the car wheeled back into the garage and then I can start finish welding on the chassis.
 

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Discussion Starter · #183 ·
Tiny update.

I finally got my garage cleared out, and wired for my welder. So I got the hot rod ready to be worked on again.

Lifted the body off the chassis and mounted furniture dollies under it so I can wheel it in and out of the garage so I have room to work.

Then I completed the front suspension. I cut out the cheapy Model A front crossmember and replaced it with a beefier 32 Ford crossmember. Then I mounted the front hairpins and used them to locate the mounts. Welded the mounts to the frame.

PXL_20210717_221547191 by Chad Truss, on Flickr

PXL_20210717_225317974 by Chad Truss, on Flickr

After the front suspension was complete I took what appears to be a step backwards. I removed the front and rear suspension assemblies so I could flip the frame over and get to the bottom of it. I have to do finish welds on all the brackets that I stuck to the frame, and I can't weld upside down.

So here is a shot of the frame flipped upside down, the suspensions separated from it, and the body on wheels.

PXL_20210718_201158669 by Chad Truss, on Flickr

Next I need to get out there and do all that welding. I will also be adding some gusseting around the front suspension crossmember.
 

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Glad to see this is still happening!

I recently used all our discussions about hydraulic clutches to convert my T5-converted XR4Ti from cable to hydraulic... Took a little ingenuity but worked great!

 

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Discussion Starter · #185 ·
I only got to put in 2 hours over the weekend.

All 4 hairpin brackets, and the panhard bar bracket, are all fully welded to the frame now. Then I ground off the rust and primer on one frame rail and clearcoated it. I didn't completely grind it down to clean metal. I still wanted a distressed look, so I ground it mostly to bare metal.

PXL_20210731_195733573 by Chad Truss, on Flickr

PXL_20210731_195737330 by Chad Truss, on Flickr

PXL_20210731_195746716 by Chad Truss, on Flickr

PXL_20210801_183951148 by Chad Truss, on Flickr

I am placing an order for the new transmission adaptor kit. I am switching to a Getrag 6 speed transmission out of a BMW M3.
 

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Discussion Starter · #187 ·
Order placed. This is probably the most money I have spent on one thing, this whole build. $1100 after the exchange rate + shipping, which hasn't been calculated yet. But it will allow me to put a beefier transmission on there, and it uses standard BMW parts. So the change will be worth it in the end.

I should add that it isn't $1100 for just an adaptor. This kit includes the flywheel, clutch set, adaptor plate, all the hardware, and some parts for the clutch fork. It is basically supposed to be everything I need.

PMC Order by Chad Truss, on Flickr
 

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I've seen those kits... I'd be interested to know approximate dimensions of that gearbox, especially how it compares to the T5.
 

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Discussion Starter · #189 ·
The Getrag 6 speed is quite a bit larger than the T-5, in all dimensions. It is longer, wider, and bigger around. BUT it doesn't need a bellhousing that is like 6"-8" deep to adapt. So overall length may wash out to about the same. I haven't measured yet.

I have all the space in the world, so I am not too concerned.
 

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Discussion Starter · #190 ·
I was able to get out in the garage for a few more hours this past weekend. The rear axle is now fully done, as far as bracket location and all the welding goes. As I get closer to getting the car done, then I'll go through the brakes and put lines on it.

I designed those hairpin mounts in CAD. Had a friend of my burn them out of 3/8" material. Normally that hairpin mounts don't wrap all the way around the axle, I just thought it was a nice touch.

PXL_20210815_200736325 by Chad Truss, on Flickr

PXL_20210815_200532707 by Chad Truss, on Flickr

PXL_20210815_210100544.MP by Chad Truss, on Flickr

And I actually did a decent weld here. One decent weld. But seriously, I'm getting better.

PXL_20210815_210116991 by Chad Truss, on Flickr
 

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Discussion Starter · #192 ·
That's looking nice!

It's really great you keep with the updates... it's great to see projects come along.
Thanks.

I do it for two main reasons. A step by step way to track what I have done. And it allows people that might know more than I do to chime in and guide me when I need it. I am new to building a car from nothing, and seriously believe this thing is going to fall apart at the seams the first time I drive it. haha
 

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I was dropping some old T12 bulbs off at the hazardous waste facility over the weekend and got talking with a guy who just finished his rat rod. IIRC it's mostly a '29 Ford but with Chevy running gear and various updates. I would say a typical rat rod, not something interesting like you're building. Still, he had the same sentiment - it took him years to build and by the time he'd finished he'd learned so much he didn't have much faith in the work he did when he started. :D But, no problems so far! :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #194 ·
I was dropping some old T12 bulbs off at the hazardous waste facility over the weekend and got talking with a guy who just finished his rat rod. IIRC it's mostly a '29 Ford but with Chevy running gear and various updates. I would say a typical rat rod, not something interesting like you're building. Still, he had the same sentiment - it took him years to build and by the time he'd finished he'd learned so much he didn't have much faith in the work he did when he started. :D But, no problems so far! :D
Yeah. 99 out of 100 rat rods are whatever hot rod someone could find. Usually a Ford Model A, or a random pickup. With a small block Chevy in it.
 

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If I ever get confident enough to start building something like this, I'd either do what you're doing and use some multivalve 4 cylinder or a Buick nailhead, because I have a weird fascination with them. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #196 ·
If I ever get confident enough to start building something like this, I'd either do what you're doing and use some multivalve 4 cylinder or a Buick nailhead, because I have a weird fascination with them. ;)
I don't know if I mentioned it early in this thread, but that was my goal here. To use a modern engine not normally used in a hot rod. I come from VW tuning, so my original engine choice was going to be a 1.8T. Then I was thinking Nissan SR20DET 2.0L turbo. There is also a company that makes a RWD adaptor for the VW VR6 engine.

But I found these adaptors for the Saab engine family. And as we all know, Saab engines are reliable as hell, and can be made pretty powerful. And, a friend had a 2.3L B234, and gave it to me. So the engine for this project was free.
 

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To me, using what you have around is probably the single most hot rod thing to do, so "free motor" of any type is the right choice. :)
 

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1.8T? Ugh.. Stock up on MAFs. LOL
You'll get a lot more power out of that B234 than any other euro 4-banger in my opinion. Make sure yours has piston squirters. That was added later in the B234I lineage and on B234R turbo engines IIRC. I just finished a rebuild on my B234I and it gave me some grief here and there but overall it was a really simple overhaul compared to that Hyundai G6DJ GDi I boosted. Standard size rings are getting harder to find and surprisingly my 222K block needed standard sizes and it has never been bored. Still had cross-hatching from factory hone. :oops:
 

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Discussion Starter · #199 ·
1.8T? Ugh.. Stock up on MAFs. LOL
You'll get a lot more power out of that B234 than any other euro 4-banger in my opinion. Make sure yours has piston squirters. That was added later in the B234I lineage and on B234R turbo engines IIRC. I just finished a rebuild on my B234I and it gave me some grief here and there but overall it was a really simple overhaul compared to that Hyundai G6DJ GDi I boosted. Standard size rings are getting harder to find and surprisingly my 222K block needed standard sizes and it has never been bored. Still had cross-hatching from factory hone. :oops:
I have had several 1.8T cars and no MAF issues. And I had one of my 1.8T cars tuned to 330HP.

I don't need or want much horsepower for this project. The stock B234 should be fine. I might put a slightly larger turbo on it, but nothing serious. I don't need any more than 250hp. This hot rod is small, and light. The suspension is new, but it is ancient technology. 250hp will be plenty. Thats 10 times the power a car like this had when it was stock. haha
 
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