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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have:
SAAB 9-5, 2006 2.3t

Three codes detected after visit to AutoZone. The first two showed up about three months ago. Since then I have changed the Plugs (Genuine SAAB NGK-9399866) not once but twice and cleaned around the DI Cassette. Still the check engine light lights up about 95% of the time I am driving. The P0340 I just noticed today. All points to a possible next step which is to change the DI Cassette for my 2006 SAAB 95 Turbo (T7). If this is really the next step and I get the DI Cassette, is there any programming that is needed either withing the SAAB or on the DIC? Or do I simply change the old DCI for the new DIC?

Please advise.
 

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I have:
SAAB 9-5, 2006 2.3t

Three codes detected after visit to AutoZone. The first two showed up about three months ago. Since then I have changed the Plugs (Genuine SAAB NGK-9399866) not once but twice and cleaned around the DI Cassette. Still the check engine light lights up about 95% of the time I am driving. The P0340 I just noticed today. All points to a possible next step which is to change the DI Cassette for my 2006 SAAB 95 Turbo (T7). If this is really the next step and I get the DI Cassette, is there any programming that is needed either withing the SAAB or on the DIC? Or do I simply change the old DCI for the new DIC?

Please advise.

Take old DIC out, put new DIC in. Nothing else required.


Note: be careful not to strip or break the screws holding the DIC in. And carefully pry open the red sliding tab on the connector to avoid breaking it. Although, if the plugs have been changed twice (and they are the correct part numbers for PFR6H-10), that should not be an issue. Have you double-checked that the gap is correct?


What you can do right away is to pull your existing DIC, flip it over, and take a look at the label. It should say SEM, with a production date, and some version numbers. That will tell us if it's likely the original. This also gives a chance to check the plug gap if you don't know for sure. And also gives a hint to how well the engine is running--the plugs shouldn't have any funny deposits or carbon buildup.

For what it's worth, I've had pretty good luck pulling DICs from junkyard cars. I've only got one that's clearly bad. That can be an economical alternative, assuming the yard charges $20-40 for one cartridge. If you can find one in a T7 9-5 or 9-3 that's been replaced (newish date code), you will most likely have a well-working one for a fraction of the price of a new genuine SEM.
 

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Having this issue with mine, same codes. Tried a junkyard DIC and thought I had it figured out but the codes came back shortly after. New plugs didn’t fix it either. New OEM DIC is on the way, seems to be the only cure for the problem. FWIW both of the DICs I currently have are 09 date codes, both have obvious signs of heat damage inside. Finding a newer one used was tough, out of six cars I checked, only one had an SEM branded DIC.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I have taken "EdT" advise, which is to purchase a replacement DIC. I decided on paying a bit more for a new DIC from eEuroparts. I expect it in next week and will update the thread.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I have taken "EdT" advise, which is to purchase a replacement DIC. I decided on paying a bit more for a new DIC from eEuroparts. I expect it in next week and will update the thread.
Got the replacement DIC yesterday and worked on the SAAB this morning. I removed fuse #17 from drivers side fuse box and disconnected the battery and let them this way as I changed the old DIC. After completing the change, the check engine light is now gone. I will check back in a week to update this thread.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
It's now been almost three weeks since installed the new DIC to trouble shoot the SAAB P1312, P1334 Codes. Since I replaced the DIC, I have seen no codes and any kind. The new DIC solved the issue.
 

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What is the benefit of pulling fuse 17 and disconnecting the battery to change the DIC? Surely the ECU will adapt to the new one as a matter of course?

Thanks - Doug
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Doug, it's likely I didn't need to pull #17 fuse and disco the battery as replacing the DIC probably would have cleared the codes. I pulled #17 fuse and disconnected the battery to clear the codes first prior to installing the DIC. Knowing the codes were cleared prior to the replacing the new DIC means that should the codes reappeared...then that would have told me I had other issues other then the DIC. Hope this helped.
 

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What is the benefit of pulling fuse 17 and disconnecting the battery to change the DIC? Surely the ECU will adapt to the new one as a matter of course?

Thanks - Doug
Safety first. The DIC pumps out 40,000 volts A/C. I'd rather cut off all current to it than have a one off un-explainable massive accident.
 
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