I put a new battery in my Saab about a month ago after mine was stolen (really)! Ever since then, the car has intermittent problems starting. The two events may be unrelated, I don't know.
Oftentimes, when I turn the key, nothing happens except the radio comes on and obviously there is electrical power to the vehicle. But there is no engine turnover whatsoever. If I keep trying over and over, it will eventually start on the 9th or 10th try. Does this point to a specific problem that I can investigate myself?
I just spent $2k on new struts and engine mounts, and I really can't afford another trip to the mechanic right now.
Is "sometimes when I turn the key" when the car is hot or cold? Or either/both?
Easiest way to check the switch is with a multimeter or a test light at the starter relay. If you get 12v between 85 and 86 when the key is in the start position, everything between there and the key is behaving properly.
I too was thinking ignition switch...sometimes they get finaky especially when they get contaminated with sticky beverages. do you ever have the key cylinder not pop up when you turn it off in conjunction with the dns? a little wd40 can't hurt it...
How could someone steal an OG 9-3? Did they bypass the TWICE? Did they bugger the ignition as part of the process? Sounds like ignition switch to me too, possibly related, possibly just the moderately common ignition switch issue.
I am finally ready to address this issue but just wondering if it will be worth it. It looks like I can get the ignition switch for abnout $360, but won't I need to also get a new key? How much would all that, plus labbor, cost me? I'm just trying to decide how much more mon ey I want to put into this vehicle. I am the original owner. I put front struts and a new clutch in about a year ago, but parts are getting pricey and hard to find. It drives very well, but interior and exterior are in only fair condition. Thanks for any feedback.
You don't need any part that costs $360! You just need the switch, which last I checked was under $100. If you don't want to DIY, then there would be some labor cost.
You don't need any part that costs $360! You just need the switch, which last I checked was under $100. If you don't want to DIY, then there would be some labor cost.
I would establish that it is the ignition switch before assuming it is. There's all of flash's suggestions, plus the range sensor to consider. If the only symptoms is the starter doesn't run, I would not jump to the conclusion it's the switch.
Well, that actually works in your favor because you can test it.... test the sensor, the relay, the starter, and ignition switch. Replace the one that's broken!
If you need an ignition switch, I have a T5 NOS Saab switch (the original spec, not the aftermarket they sell now). I bought it for my NG900 which had some issues but it never got installed. Very reasonable pricing :- ).
I also have relays if you need one.
FYI - If it's an automatic, I'd be most suspicious of the Neutral Start Switch. I'm no guru on those, but they can be bypassed for testing.
If you need an ignition switch, I have a T5 NOS Saab switch (the original spec, not the aftermarket they sell now). I bought it for my NG900 which had some issues but it never got installed. Very reasonable pricing :- ).
I also have relays if you need one.
FYI - If it's an automatic, I'd be most suspicious of the Neutral Start Switch. I'm no guru on those, but they can be bypassed for testing.
I'm trying to find the relays so I can check it. it says "under the instrument panel next to the steering wheel", but I don't see it. I pulled off the underpanel, and I still don't see it. Can you help me locate it?
Based on Bob's comment re the Neutral start switch.
If it doesn't start in park. ie you turn the key, lights come on, you can hear the fuel pump then no crank when it goes to start.
Try starting the car in neutral with the handbrake on. If it starts in Neutral - then it is likely to be the Neutral Start Switch.
I'm having that issue at the moment. I find starting the car after I have driven it to be easier also.
Based on Bob's comment re the Neutral start switch.
If it doesn't start in park. ie you turn the key, lights come on, you can hear the fuel pump then no crank when it goes to start.
Try starting the car in neutral with the handbrake on. If it starts in Neutral - then it is likely to be the Neutral Start Switch.
I'm having that issue at the moment. I find starting the car after I have driven it to be easier also.
So I'm having trouble locating the relay box. It says under the instrument panel next to the steering wheel, but I don't see it. I pulled off the under panel and I still don't see it. Can you help me locate it please so I can check the relay?
Aussie - I get the impression the OP had a broken Saab 2 years ago, Life happens, and the Saab repairs took a back seat. understandable in the US at the moment.
Looks like the OP is ready to take the step down the rabbit hole.
Using the Matrix analogy...
Blue Pill ... Saab goes to the Pick a part in the sky, and you wake up in another car - with no memory of the Saab.
Red Pill = find great original parts & fix it .. all good - Stay in wonderful Saab Land.
Its just a long time to decide on a red pill for a relatively small task . Yeah , I know life happens. I was thinking that perhaps it was rarely failing and was still being used, which would steer me away from an NSS.
You need to test it... connect 12v to 85 and 86 and then make sure there is continuity between 30 and 87. When you remove power from 85/86 the connection between 30/87 will be broken.
It's probably easier to just crank the engine and see if there is power at the fuel pump fuse (or the fuel pump itself).
Easy way to test is to swap in a relay for something non-critical and see if it fixes the problem.
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