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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Dear SAAB lovers,

My father gave me his SAAB 9000 CD 2.3 FPT (200hp) (which he bought it new back in 1995) with 160k.

Although it is in a very good condition, I had to go through some repairs. So

I replaced all the rubber hoses (water, charged air, vacuum) with silicon and Bypass valve all made by MapTun.
Lube oil, all the filters and spark plugs with NGK BCPR7ES-11
Overhauled brake calipers and replace pads, disks, hoses and of course fluid with DOT 5.2
Replaced the heater because it was rotten.
I am going to replace the belt the water pump, thermostat and crankshaft pulley (because it is worn).

I will have to change the engine temperature sensor for the indicator as it is showing that the temperature is somewhere between low and middle at its maximum.

Now I am thinking of replacing the IAT sensor the Oxygen sensor and the temperature sensor for the injection. You think it is a good opportunity or is it a waste of money? Is it common for these sensors to fail. I dont have any "check engine" alarm yet, but could they be out of tolerance from all these years?

Thank you

John
 

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Before changing engine temp sensor, tighten fuel/temp gauge holding screws/nuts and secure them with nail polish.
This is most common issue for low readings.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Before changing engine temp sensor, tighten fuel/temp gauge holding screws/nuts and secure them with nail polish.

This is most common issue for low readings.


You mean the screws on the back of the cluster instrument?


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Temp indication - didn't I read somewhere that the 9000 gauge doesn't stabilise at the 9 o'clock position like later Saabs do? Mine seems to like the 8:30 position.

Doug
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Mine is also at 8.30 these days. But I remember years ago it was almost at nine o clock and I am using the hot thermostat (89C)


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I have been told by a few Saab master techs that there was a modification made to the coolant temp sensor or gauge to "smooth" and lower the temp gauge reading as 9000's will naturally oscillate when it comes to engine temperature sensor (similar to a C900). They don't have a built in buffer like NG900's. I'm in North America, and I can't find a TSB on it however it seems to be a well known thing around here...
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I have been told by a few Saab master techs that there was a modification made to the coolant temp sensor or gauge to "smooth" and lower the temp gauge reading as 9000's will naturally oscillate when it comes to engine temperature sensor (similar to a C900). They don't have a built in buffer like NG900's. I'm in North America, and I can't find a TSB on it however it seems to be a well known thing around here...


Thanks for your reply Kamikazi!

I have a question though;

Although I don’t have any “check engine” alarm at the moment, is it recommended to preventively replace all coolant sensors and air intake sensor after 160,000 miles?


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Don't replace what Ain't Broken.. Seriously!
Temp dial is DESIGNED to read 7;30 / 8 o'clock.
Don't mess with it simply because you don't 'approve'.
Sillycone hoses are... despite adverts, NOT an upgrade.
But hey! PT barnum would be Proud
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Hi,

Has anyone tried Stage 2 (using the T5 Suite wizard) on a B234L without doing any hardware upgrades?

In other words will the engine perform with stock equipment (inlet-outlet) on Stage 2?




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Yesss :) It works..exactly as advertised. No mods required ..Well, almost none..the ex 'could' be improved a little bit.
But it doesn't actually make any difference in real life.. for mine at least
In lieu of the fabled larger diameter exhaust.. IF that worries.. and it shouldn't.
[The actual bottleneck in the Ex system is in the goofy bend / exit pipe attached to the turbo Revist that part Looong before improving ex pipe diameter]
Remove the intermediate resonator thing, just ahead of the rear axle...
(It's essentially useless and surprisingly expensive to replace when it rots).. with a bit of straight pipe. Easy peasy.
This will be a Ghetto equivalent to a pricey large cat back pipe setup.
Have fun.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks for the reply, and what should be the power-torque gain? Did you also noticed an improvement in mileage (considering same driving style as before the tuning.)


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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Hi,

Has anyone tried Stage 2 (using the T5 Suite wizard) on a B234L without doing any hardware upgrades?

In other words will the engine perform with stock equipment (inlet-outlet) on Stage 2?




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So you mean it is OK to keep the existing 2” exhaust with Stage 3 tuning.


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