[steve12955]

When it stalls does it feel like the key has been turned off (ignition) -OR- does it gradually lose power (fuel)?

If it’s “ignition” it could be the CPS. What brand CPS was installed?

 

[Windsor]

Does it only happen when the car is warm? (Ie- of a cold start?). If so I would suspect a cps, especially if it was not a Bosch. If not a Bosch, change it
the fuel pump usually does not cut in and out unless there is a loose wire or loose connection

 

[bob3000]

First and easiest is try another DIC (borrow don't buy), it doesn't sound like fuel pump to me, they either work or they don't for the most part.

 

[Germaniac]

Is the CEL on? Apart from that, you might want to check for error codes anyway.

 

[Romyan]

Does it only happen when the car is warm? (Ie- of a cold start?). If so I would suspect a cps, especially if it was not a Bosch. If not a Bosch, change it
the fuel pump usually does not cut in and out unless there is a loose wire or loose connection

So the first time it occured it was cold, and the car wouldn't get any power to stay on unless I gassed it.

The second time I was driving with a fridnds and it shut off as if it was shut off (ik the person in passenger didn't twist it off either)

It's been like two days and issue hasn't come back, I think it was a Bosch CPS but might replace it again in case.

 

[Romyan]

Is the CEL on? Apart from that, you might want to check for error codes anyway.

Nope, I do have OPENSID so I'll look on there later today

 

[Romyan]

When it stalls does it feel like the key has been turned off (ignition) -OR- does it gradually lose power (fuel)?

If it’s “ignition” it could be the CPS. What brand CPS was installed?

When I was rolling it was like it started to lug a bit and then shut off, when I cold started and had it happen it would start right up and then struggle to stay on until it shuts off.

 

[steve12955]

Last week, my 9-5 CPS quit without any warning (luckily in my garage) but a few years ago, my Jaguar X-Type CPS began to act up during cold start warm-ups and a few weeks later started to stall once warm - so it still could be the CPS which won’t always trigger a CEL. You can test CPS resistance with an ohmmeter: trace wire from CPS to the connector (if Bosch it’ll be blue). Unplug it and test the three terminal combinations (1-2, 1-3, 2-3) on the sensor side of the connector. One combination should show 875ohms +/-100ohms if it’s in spec. If not replace it.

A slow stall could also be fuel-related but as others have said it’s unlikely that a fuel pump will cut out and in, but who knows. Get a fuel pressure tester (AutoZone, Advance, O’Reilly, etc. loan them) and attach to fuel rail fitting. You should see 40psi when key is turned on (not start). Then, with key off pressure should not drop below 33psi or so for at least an hour.

 

[Windsor]

Last week, my 9-5 CPS quit without any warning (luckily in my garage) but a few years ago, my Jaguar X-Type CPS began to act up during cold start warm-ups and a few weeks later started to stall once warm - so it still could be the CPS which won’t always trigger a CEL. You can test CPS resistance with an ohmmeter: trace wire from CPS to the connector (if Bosch it’ll be blue). Unplug it and test the three terminal combinations (1-2, 1-3, 2-3) on the sensor side of the connector. One combination should show 875ohms +/-100ohms if it’s in spec. If not replace it.

A slow stall could also be fuel-related but as others have said it’s unlikely that a fuel pump will cut out and in, but who knows. Get a fuel pressure tester (AutoZone, Advance, O’Reilly, etc. loan them) and attach to fuel rail fitting. You should see 40psi when key is turned on (not start). Then, with key off pressure should not drop below 33psi or so for at least an hour.

Issues that are intermittent can be maddening. The fuel pressure test will probably be normal. The real time to test the fuel pressure is when the car is acting up.

 

[Windsor]

The CPS never throws a code as it is failing. So if the check engine light does not come on when you stall, it points me more in that direction. If you still have issues after you replace the CPS, then I would consider borrowing a DIC. With the 4 Saabs I have, I’ve yet to have a DIC fail on me without adequate warning- a check engine light coming on is my warning.

 

[bob3000]

I’ve yet to have a DIC fail on me without adequate warning- a check engine light coming on is my warning.

I've had two DIC's fail in the same way as the OP, touch the gas and it's like someone reached down and turned off the ignition for a second then the power comes right back on as soon as you let up on the gas a little, no check engine light.

 

[Windsor]

I've had two DIC's fail in the same way as the OP, touch the gas and it's like someone reached down and turned off the ignition for a second then the power comes right back on as soon as you let up on the gas a little, no check engine light.

Interesting. So that is where Romyan should definitely head next

 

[Romyan]

Update: I got a P0455 and the car hasn't turned off when driving, but will sometimes shut off when starting up. I doubt it's the gas cap so I'm going to redo the EVAP hoses and some of the vacuum lines, haven't been making full boost for a while according to OPENSID so it might be that honestly.

 

[steve12955]

P0455 is a large EVAP leak and won’t impact drivability. However, if the EVAP purge valve is stuck open it will trigger the code and could cause starting problems especially after filling the tank: vapor which is displaced by liquid fuel is forced through the EVAP line into the throttle body, causing a rich start condition.

 

[Romyan]

P0455 is a large EVAP leak and won’t impact drivability. However, if the EVAP purge valve is stuck open it will trigger the code and could cause starting problems especially after filling the tank: vapor which is displaced by liquid fuel is forced through the EVAP line into the throttle body, causing a rich start condition.

Maybe it's that because when the car is totally cold (like in the morning or after it being parked for a couple hours) it starts up perfectly, but when it's warm like after I stop at the store or something it'll get the start up issue.

On the edge of the TB there seems to be kind of like some residue too, I cleaned the TB not too long ago but noticed that on the outside of it, I can maybe snap a photo later.

Is there any way I can test the solenoid or clean it?

 

[bob3000]

Maybe it's that because when the car is totally cold (like in the morning or after it being parked for a couple hours) it starts up perfectly, but when it's warm like after I stop at the store or something it'll get the start up issue.

Sounds like a CPS problem to me.

 

[Romyan]

Sounds like a CPS problem to me.

Damn that's a bummer, maybe Amazon sold me a knockoff Bosch sensor since I've had it installed for less than a year.

 

[steve12955]

It still sounds like the CPS. See my post #9 for testing it. A failing CPS will result in stalling and/or difficulty starting.

The P0455 code is unrelated and more likely a hole/split in an EVAP line (a mouse chewed a hole in my 9-3’s line on top of the tank), a rusted fuel fill tube or vent tube that’s attached to the fill tube. A stuck open purge valve is uncommon and won’t cause the engine to stall.

 

[lucky7s]

Damn that's a bummer, maybe Amazon sold me a knockoff Bosch sensor since I've had it installed for less than a year.

I see your geotag is in US, use RockAuto.
Loads of people local to me use the RA Bosch sensors and none have issues, including myself.