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Discussion Starter #1
Hi I have a problem with my saab. some time would start when it has been standing overnight an sometimes if i crank really long it starts .
So I thought the battery was dead so I bought a new one and it still does ...
Even though I take off minus on the batteri when got home from work, it can't start. Only if I jump start it.
Then I tried and look for an electronics fault but I can't measure anything.

Sry my bad english Guys 馃槑
 

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Hi I have a problem with my saab. some time would start when it has been standing overnight an sometimes if i crank really long it starts .
So I thought the battery was dead so I bought a new one and it still does ...
Even though I take off minus on the batteri when got home from work, it can't start. Only if I jump start it.
Then I tried and look for an electronics fault but I can't measure anything.

Sry my bad english Guys 馃槑
If the battery is new & good, there are really only two other possibilities:
  1. The alternator is not charging the battery
  2. Something in the electrical system is draining the battery after you shut the car off
Is the charging symbol lit up on the gauge cluster?
 

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You can use a voltmeter to see what the battery voltage is.

You also say that you "crank really long" and sometimes it starts. So the battery is not dead or weak?

When the car is running, is the check engine light on, or any other warning lights?

Is the level of coolant in the coolant reservoir dropping over time?
 

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Take a look at the battery cables coming off the battery .are you seeing the green fuzz of death are the cables still easy to bend or hard and stiff.the weird part is if the battery has enough power to crank for a long time as was said you'd think it's being charged you also might question if it has to do with power at all.how old are the spark plugs what kind are they and same thing on the direct ignition.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The ground and positive cable are both fine and flexsibel.
I dont which type of sparkplugs it is or how old they are. All fluids is fine and no check engine lights is on. If i jump start it and drive to work (about 20km) i can start it within 4-5 hours and sometimes i can wait a little longer, but only sometimes and I have to crank it for a long time
 

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The fact that it cranks for a long time means it's not an electrical issue because obviously you have the power there to crank it. I would be leaning towards the spark plugs and the ignition cassette next because more than likely you have fuel or you wouldn't be starting it at all. So I would make a point of unplugging the ignition cassette taken the four screws Torx screws out of the top pulling it out of the center of the top of the engine. Make sure when you take it out that you leave it somewhere standing up in the same position. There is oil in it and if you lay it down and then put it back in you can burn it out. Pull out your spark plugs check the gap on them the Gap should be about a .40 I believe it's .38 is there a point 60 that'll show you that they're quite old it's time for a new set you definitely want to get NGK Platinum plugs I'll give you the number shortly for the plugs but my guess is it's time for a new set of plugs at least at the worst maybe in ignition cassette just so you know I have a few ignition cassettes laying around. I've got some that are in really great shape but you may just need to do the plugs. But I would definitely start there sounds like it's time for a tune-up
 

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Here's a link to eeuroparts.com. if you go on there put in your year the exact model of your car it'll give you the exact plug you should use .it's definitely going to be an NGK Platinum get the lasers. They're going to come gapped already like I said I believe the Gap is .38 just check the gap on them when they come you'll figure out really quickly what it supposed to be . just make sure none of them are off. You never know can always get one that's not gapped correctly. Make sure you get some Dielectric grease. After you put the new plugs in stick a little of that grease in the holes on the four nipples coming off the ignition cassette that you're going to pull that way when you put it in and it meets up with the spark plugs the grease will do its job make a good connection. And like I said when you pull that ignition cassette just make sure you put it somewhere that's clean and where it's going to be in the same orientation standing straight up like it was in the car. If you get a little piece of rubber hose at your local parts store there's a trick. If you get like a 12inch piece of Hose slide it over the spark plug and use it to screw the plugs in you won't be able to cross thread the plugs if for any reason the plug start to cross thread the hose will start to slip on the plug and you'll know to back it out and start over but it won't allow you to screw up the threads. I like to use that just as a precaution I'm not sure what size. But if you bring a spark plug in to an AutoZone or something and explain to him you want a piece of rubber hose that fits over the spark plug. they usually sell it by the foot .have them cut you off a foot for a dollar or so . slide it over the contact side of the spark plug and use it to screw in all your plugs. once you get them snug pull the hose off and use your wrench to tighten them up. Just tighten them until they're nice and snug you don't have to go crazy. I think you'll find your car is going to start a lot better.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
So i changed the sparkplugs and the old ones looked fine. It still has issues starting. I checked the battery and the tension was at 12.1 volts (the battery is 2 months old) so a bit low, i also messured how much current is drawn while turned off, i set my multimeter at mA and it said 0.08
 

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You would hope that if the direct ignition was failing you'd see misfire codes.have u checked all the smaller vacuum lines for damage.also take a look at the grounds..follow the negative wire on the battery to the body ground and engine ground and clean them .look at the ground that goes to the transmission mount.remove the nut and the ground wire then remove the entire stud .wire wheel or brush it clean .It may help if you can clean up the grounds.Are there any obd codes present.
 
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