SaabCentral Forums banner

1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have Saab aero 2.3l 2007 . When the motor is cold the car is very alive and perform the turbo boost reaches the red area easily, but after about 20 mins of drive with normal motor temp the performance dropping down significantly and the boost is not reaching the red area at all .
Any ideas ? Thanks for the help
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
384 Posts
It bogs down from a stop too right, with little power below 3000 RPM? Also does it seem to be better in cold weather? What octane are you using?

It's a well-documented issue, I chased this problem for years, eventually traced it to excessive knock counts and Trionic eventually pulling tons of timing in order to protect the engine. I swapped a bunch of parts with little to no benefit. I always used Premium 91 octane gas.

I eventually converted to full ethanol (E85) and have had zero issues since. I can drive all day in the heat with no power loss whatsoever.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I have Saab aero 2.3l 2007 . When the motor is cold the car is very alive and perform the turbo boost reaches the red area easily, but after about 20 mins of drive with normal motor temp the performance dropping down significantly and the boost is not reaching the red area at all .
Any ideas ? Thanks for the help
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Thank you for your reply,
The power drops down from a stop as you said.
It always good when the motor is cold (normal temp but after few minutes of driving only)and drops down gradually after 10-15 mins of driving.
The local weather is relatively high temperatures so I did not have the chance to check it in very low tempratures, however , I think it's related to motor temp rather than environment temp.
I use regular gas 95 octane , never tried the 98 octane .
Why do you think it should solve the issue ?
Thanks again
Raz
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
384 Posts
Definitely use the higher octane, I believe your 98 is about equivalent to our 94. Even if it doesn't completely solve the problem, it should make a noticeable improvement.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Clean and tighten the ground on the thermostat housing. This is what fixed it for me. That ground is for the DIC and loosens over time.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
88 Posts
DIC/Ground for DIC is my guess. Causing false knock signals bogs it down since it pulls a lot of timing to reduce it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
73 Posts
Mine was solved by cleaning all grounds and then (unfortunately for my wallet), a full rebuild of the main harness/ground.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
88 Posts
What???
DIC uses spark plugs to determine knocking etc via ionization.
Correct, but if the DIC doesn't have good ground, many strange and unexplainable symptoms will happen since the DIC has the ionization module built into it.
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top