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Saab 9-3 AMP1 fried

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Hello,

Does anyone know of a way to bypass the AMP1 yourself without having to ship it out and pay money? I know the SaabRadio guy will charge $59 to install the bypass for you.

I am wondering if this is something I can do myself by soldering a resistor or a few wires or something. Has anyone ever tried to fix their AMP1 themselves?
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Amp 1

Update - I went out to the car and started it and no light to the Head unit - radio. I pulled out fuse # 14- 20 amp put it back in and the light cam on for the radio and there was a red light on inside the amp for about 15 seconds and then it went out. No signal sound, door chime or radio.
I have bypassed the in and out on the bus connection under the seat - inside the amp. It is funny that the light appears to be on inside the amp where I have disconnected the fibre optic connection.
My bypass was a done by removing the port on the amp that connected to the fibre optics under the seat and replace the connection at the bus with a part I took from a parts amp where I connected the two ends together - where they otherwise would have linked into the amp.
I am stubborn so I really would like to figure this out. Unfortunately I have no proven donor amp to swap in and out to see if I am making a bigger problem for myself...
 

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For those who are still interested, i found a great cheap way to bypass the amp. Remove the fibre optic hardness from the main wire hardness in the amp. Using a piece of shrink wrap, wrap the two smaller ends together and then plug the large ones directly in to the fibre optic ports where the amp plugged in.
 

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Okay, I know this is old as heck but I'm just unclear about the processes that people have stated to bypass the AMP1. My issue is that the center speaker and door speakers do not work. I only have the 2 in the dash and 2 on the rear shelf. WIll a bypass make "all" my speakers work again? or is this fiber optic bypass something for people that have NOTHING. I just wanted to get my door speakers and center channel up and running. Now, if I am effectively connecting 2 optic leads together where am I now getting my signal? Am i taking apart the ones inside the amp or the ones coming from the car? I'm just a bit confused any help is appreciated.
 

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the point of the bypass is sometimes when amp1 goes the optical loop is broken and the entire system wont turn on. sounds like your amps output is dead but the optical loop is intact. if you want door and center back you need to fix or replace the amp
 

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Hard to tell from that photo. But it really depends on how bad the corrosion is. You really have nothing to lose by trying. Do you know how to work on electronics or know someone who does?
 

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Hey, I know this is an old thread but I have a question...
My AMP 1 is draining my battery so I would like to know if I can

-Bypass the fibre optics in AMP 1 and remove the AMP while leaving the fibre optic connection

-Install a after market amp in my boot to power the rear shelf speakers and front dash speakers

that way I dont need to bother buying a ****ty 50w Saab amp and can buy a decent aftermarket amp to power my speakers without affecting my battery/chimes/stereo/ etc..

Thank you, any information is appreciated.
 

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Hey, I know this is an old thread but I have a question...
My AMP 1 is draining my battery so I would like to know if I can

-Bypass the fibre optics in AMP 1 and remove the AMP while leaving the fibre optic connection

-Install a after market amp in my boot to power the rear shelf speakers and front dash speakers

that way I dont need to bother buying a ****ty 50w Saab amp and can buy a decent aftermarket amp to power my speakers without affecting my battery/chimes/stereo/ etc..

Thank you, any information is appreciated.
Yes and Yes, but what about the doors? What is going to take bass duties?
 

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Ok thank you!! Well I had a sub in the boot because the door speakers have never worked since I bought the car hahaha. Maybe it would be better to fit new door speakers with a tweeter and power that instead of the dash 4" ones
 
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