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what does the amp1 sound like when it is going out? My car got rained in last weekend...now when i turn the car on and off ...sometimes...there is a pop through the speakers..sometimes not...it almost sounds like the dash speakers though...thats not amp1 right?
 

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Not to rub it in... but my amp1 spontaneously recovered. Took 3 start cycles, but all returned to normal. Except my passenger's mirror moved and was no longer stored in the position 1 memory setting.

I wish manufacturers were more transparent about how the computer modules communicate in these cars, because I obviously had some kind of communications burp. My next car is either gonna be something that has been hacked to smithereens, or an old analog rig like a 340 'cuda or Ferrari 348 (which surprisingly sell for about the same amount).
 

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well my pop is def coming from the center speaker every time the car is turned off...and when switching between the radio, cd, and aux input the sound from the center speaker lingers a few seconds before it picks up the new signal...that isn't amp1 right...is that the head unit? Good Lord...how much does that thing cost to replace?
 

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I made 4 of my speakers work by doing a diy bypass

I just took the amp 1 out, removed the fibre optic cables out of the inside of the amp 1, you have to open it up, then I connected them together by slideing them into a bic mechanical pencils lead holder, the inner one not the one you touch.
 

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center speaker is amp1..

The front dash 3.5" L&R & rear shelf 4" L&R...powered by the ehu..

doors & centre speaker by amp1

6x9s if fitted powered by amp2

above is for 03-06 models only..
 

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I have the 13 speaker system, and I have no sound from any speakers. Im trying to remove amp one, but i cant get any tools under the seat to get the thing out.

any tips? I dont want to spend a fortune redoing my system since im selling the car soon.
 

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I have the 13 speaker system, and I have no sound from any speakers. Im trying to remove amp one, but i cant get any tools under the seat to get the thing out.

any tips? I dont want to spend a fortune redoing my system since im selling the car soon.
I can't remember the exact removal of the amp 1, i remmeber haveing to move my seat as far forward as it could go and i went in from the backseat.

After that i opened my amp 1 up and saw a thin black wire looping from one unit to another, i had to push and twist it inward to release the cable, i then used that cable and brought it back out to the car where i used tape and a the lead holder from inside a bic pen to hold the cable's together under the seat, now i'm able to get 4 or 5 speakers working and it has been working perfectly for about a year.
 

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I have the 13 speaker system, and I have no sound from any speakers. Im trying to remove amp one, but i cant get any tools under the seat to get the thing out.

any tips? I dont want to spend a fortune redoing my system since im selling the car soon.

thats not an amp1 problem thats something else

see post 27..
 

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^ ahh my whole stereo is fried!!!

no sound at all, not even the blinker clicking.
 

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@rc-

Check for the red laser light blinking at the orange O-bus cables. I had one yesterday with no radio, no blinker noise. Gettin another ICU, actually the box the CD changer mounts in. Tech II showed no communication with O-bus and a "break" between AMP1 and the CU.

BTW...this cars AMP1 was the crustiest, rusty POS Ive ever seen...but it still worked in another car.
 

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^ ahh my whole stereo is fried!!!

no sound at all, not even the blinker clicking.
I would look closer at your amp 1 once again. and it it only held in my one fiber optic connector and a torx screw. I lifted my seat up as high as it would go and to the front as far as i could and i didnt have to much trouble getting it out haha, way easier to get out then trying to pull the head unit out. which i did originally to check if it was fried. I had the exact same problem you did as nothing worked in my car, no turn signals, no ehu, and no sid. I did some research and found that once the fiber optic loop is broken in any place, they system does not work and you loose power to everything running off the loop, meaning everything. I got a new amp 1, installed it and it worked perfectly. Car was back to normal. There is even no need to have anything married to the car, as theres no reason to have to. However i faught with the guy at the saab dealership for an hour over it as he said if i got one from the dealer i would have to pay to get it re-married with the car. Show how much they know sometimes. i just purchased a refirbed amp from saabradio and it works beautifully. The amp looked like it was brand new, and i took a look inside to see what he siliconed, and it seemed he covered a few caps and around the board where the water can get in through the side vents on the amp. All in all either get, or make shift a bypass and you will have some of your speakers back, along with ur turn signals, sid, and ehu. Or if you want everything working just replace with a good amp1.

The final route is bypassing every speaker and installing an aftermarket amp to power all your speakers. I find this is a great method to fix the problem, and not have to worry about water damage issues in the future, along with increased sound quality due to being able to install an amp with a higher wattage output, and being able to have less limitations switiching components of your audio system. But for my case i just replaced my amp 1 and went with the easy fix. And so far its served me well, except i find my speakers do pop when the car is cold and cut a little bit, but once the car warms up everything works like new.

hope this helps a little, just bringing you through my experiences with the problem
 

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Just voices.

Raising this thread up from the dead, as i think i got a AMP1 that is done?

Just got a 2003 Vector 7 speaker system... the only sound that comes out is the voice's no bass or anything else. I had a geek squad guy poke into a speaker with a good known speaker just to test if there was anything going to it and wasn't getting anything. Blinker sound works, the radio works fine, just voices come though no bass or anything else. Is it AMP1 or do you think that it could be something else?

Also... I was reading and i too have a fuel gauge that doesn't work and have to guess upon mileage driven, do you have to replace the entire pump or can you replace just the sender?

Thanks Guys
 

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help with the radio- hope the post isn't reads

I have a 2006 Aero SC and have the same issues as mentioned here. I have tried to do the tests on the system mentioned here and on other repair posts. I have checked all the fuses and they are good. I have disconnected the battery 3-4 times and no change. I have pulled out the dash and saw I have a light in the radio, and have pulled all the connectors off the radio, CD and amp1 and shone a flashlight into each end of the connectors to see if the light could be seen out of another connector and I did it light up. I did note that the light from the radio to amp 1 was not as bright as the other lights appeared, but it did light up.
I have purchased 3 different amps - all from people who said they worked and nothing happened.
I think I will disassemble the first amp and see if I can make a bypass as noted in this post to see if I can get sound. I think if I do then it would be amp 1, if not I am thinking it would be either amp 2 or a broken fibre optic cable.
Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated - and sorry for not using the proper terms for the units....I am just dumbing it down so I son't name one of the units incorrectly.
I do have my info SID, but no signals sound, CD responds to 1-6 but no sound....Thx
 

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Follow up

I just made a connector to bypass amp 1- tore apart an old amp and removed the in/out fibre optic connection and linked it and ensure light pass thru in a loop, hooked it up and nothing, so I guess I have to move to Amp 2 as the problem...any thoughts?
 

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amp2

Opened up the Hatch and pulled off the bus for amp 2 and with a light on the optic cable for amp 1 saw a bright white light and blinking red light in the bus connections for amp 2.

I have pulled fuse # 14 and checked it for continuity and for power, all good there.

I have bypassed amp 1 as described above.....which I think means it should work on 4 speakers.

And have disconnected the battery for 15 minutes for a reset.

So I am thinking it would be amp 2....

Any thoughts, I am sure tired of having no sound,

Thx
 
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