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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,

Have a 1999 2.0 9-3 vert which started to slightly hesitate under light acceleration (or rather throttle lift off and then light re-apply) in 5th on motorway -didn't think much of it to start with -just thought maybe revs were a little low and maybe I should have changed down! Like 3 soft judders and then all was fine. Could floor it in 2nd and 3rd and all seemed fine through rev range. Anyway a few days later it started stalling. Had a mechanic look at it and he replaced the red DIC pack and plugs. I still feel it is a little lumpy and sure enough it still stalling. No more hesitation but still stalling. I can drive to work for 45 mins, leave it all day (8 hours) and then drive home fine (another 50-60 min drive). If I then try the car again in about a hour, leave it idling or try and drive, it will stall. Start it back up and it will stall again and again. If I do manage to drive it will be fine until slow down for a junction or car park barrier when it will stall as I come to a stop.

Done lots of reading and just tried a different (2nd hand) Bosch evap purge valve. Still stalling. Some of the vacuum lines look shot so replaced the 80cm one from turbo bypass to TB but sill stalling after an hour of previous use. Cleaned the TB but only on the car. Didn't look that bad but does look better after a clean. Same issue.

Decided to replace all the 4mm vacuum hoses and new pcv valve, pcv nipple and bush. While I was there I cleaned the IAC too and replaced the CPS with a new one including new o-ring and support ring.

Still stalling after coming back to car (after an hour of previous use/warm up). Then changed the TPS too. Same issue.

What next guys? Any ideas?

Thanks.

Only had the car a year and been great fun until now!
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Should add that never had the CEL light on (not even sure where this is to be honest - is it the yellow weird icon/engine management icon?) and mechanic tried to read fault codes but none stored.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Just had MOT test and it failed on front discs and pads. Another load of money spent but at least it is OK for 12 months! Still cutting out though - mechanic reckons IAC so took it out to give it a clean but then realised I had already been there (he said "it was as clean as a whistle"). I said I have cleaned it (and done the CPS, TPS, EVAP, PCV valve, PCV hoses, other TB vacuum hoses, cleaned the TB). He still reckons it would be worth putting a different IAC on the car as it has now started to idle weird when you start the car. Maybe the car didn't like me cleaning the IAC? Do I have to reset the ECU? Do you think it is worth sourcing a different (prob not new) IAC?

Thanks,
Si.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Got a new (2nd hand) IAC valve coming and just took delivery of a new turbo bypass valve and fitted. No change!

Any ideas please? Just pulled the electrical connection to the IAT sensor but still the same too!
 

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Mass Air Flow sensor fault?

Hi There,
There's a lot of TLA's (Three Letter Acronyms) floating around here:), so not sure if you have already thought of it:
I have read somewhere that a dirty/defective MAF (mass air flow sensor) will make your engine exhibit the symptoms you describe? Anyway - my 9-5, 2,3T exhibits same symptoms, and I will have my repair-shop look into that.

I also have a weird once-a-week thing: after short trips/or slow moving traffic - park 5 minutes - will not start again. Engine is turning, but no spark at all. Lock car, talk a 5 minute hike, return and car starts at the turn of key.
Is this same thing (MAF) or something completely different?

"SAAB OWNERS - UNITE" ;ol; (being May 1, you know).
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks both.

Already swapped EVAP purge valve with no change. It was a 2nd hand part so you never know but also took the EVAP to throttle body vacuum hose off last night and plugged it and it still cut out so feel I have ruled that valve and the canister out?

Indeed. All the TB (throttle body), IAC (idle air control), MAP (manifold absolute pressure).....acronyms!!!

I have the B204 t5 engine so no MAF sensor :(

Thanks. Good luck with yours.
 

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It does sound as though you've pretty much checked all the usual suspects, and so I'm trying to think of some unusual suspects... Your B204 should have two coolant sensors. One feeds the ICE (Integrated Central Electronics) module and this determines what's shown on your coolant gauge and when the radiator fan runs. The other sensor actually screws into your intake manifold, with a probe into an engine coolant port, and solely feeds the ECU.

When working on my '96 900SE B204L last autumn, I reassembled the intake side after replacing the gasket, but didn't properly connect the wiring harness for this ECU coolant sensor. On OBDII, it reported -42C as the coolant temperature and the engine would stall out unless I rode the throttle. Maybe this is relevant, probably not, thought that I might toss it out there.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks. It is on my list of things to try after reading similar. Not got round to idetinying the part number or getting a price for a new one as yet (slightly worried as I'll be disturbing the coolant system while doing it - call me a chicken but I hate doing things that disturb fluids). Got no spare antifreeze so I'll have to get some of that too - any particular stuff to top up with or safer to drain down, change sensor and refill with new?

Thanks again.
 

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Well, before you replace the sensor and mess with engine coolant, you could see if you can determine whether it is malfunctioning or not. This is as easy as reading the engine coolant temperature PID on OBDII with a scanner. If you don't have that, another option would be to put an ohmmeter on its two terminals; quoting from another post (but it should be in the Haynes manual), you should see 2.3k-2.7k ohms at 20C and 560-670ohms at 60C. Just re-seating the harness connector could help if oxidation has built up and increased the resistance on the circuit...

If you do wind up needing to remove the sensor, you'll likely need to remove your fuel injectors and fuel rail to put a wrench on it. (Be careful as it has a plastic electrical harness connector that is very easy to crack while wrenching it off). You'll likely lose 2 liters of coolant unless you can swap it out and another one in quickly, so you may or may not want to drain the system first.

I'm not sure what sort of coolant is in your car now, but if you lose some, it's important that you top off with more of the same type. If you drain it to empty, G05 or G12 would be reasonable choices for replacement...
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks for the useful info. Not a clue what coolant is in there either!

I may look to do the fuel pressure regulator and clean the injectors too then if it needs all that lot taken off. I will however try and check the connector later tonight/read resistance. I have just replaced the IAC too for a different one but not tested yet.

Thanks again.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
FYI. The used IAC swap I did made no difference. I may get an obd-ii scanner but in the UK, I am not sure they fully (if at all) implemented until 2001 unlike the US where regs forced manufacturers to do so from 1996.

I was looking at getting a TEXA USB OBD-II data logger? Bit expensive though so any suggestions? Will a ELM one from eBay be OK?

Thanks.
 

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Fun fact: SAAB was one of the first manufacturers to support OBDII. They rolled it out on the new model SAAB 900 in 1994 with Trionic5.5 ECUs. I've no idea if Motronic NG900s had it, but all turbocharged NG900/9-3s are Trionic. If you've got it, you should find an OBDII connector below your steering wheel and above the pedals, though it's possible it'd be on the left if yours is right-hand drive. My only uncertainty is if they omitted the connector on UK regional vehicles, although the UK-published Haynes manual does make reference to a fault code reader.

I most frequently use a bluetooth ELM327 adapter I bought for perhaps US$25 and the 'Torque' app on my Android smartphone, though there are similar apps for iPhones. In addition to monitoring OBDII PIDs, it can read and clear fault codes. I also have an ELM327 USB adapter I bought, although I've never gotten it to work satisfactorily, the laptop I tried to use was highly suspect as well...
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Hi,

Thanks. I bought a Texa OBD-log in the end and it seems to work to some degree with my car (some readings are empty, some are not but ALL say *not supported next to them. However the Engine rpm seems correct so I think I believe the readings that are shown. However, when the car cut out everything looked ok! Engine rpm was 998, coolant temp was 74 deg C, air temp is 66 deg C, intake air manifold is 46 kPaA, battery voltage is 13.8v and engine load is 31.7% (not sure I get that one?). Fuel pressure is reading 0 all the way (never had a reading on this). No errors logged at all.

So, not really sure still what is wrong but still need to check remaining earth points and do that resistance test on the temp sensor. I tried to start her up and it started and then cut out pretty much straight away (not unusual once it starts doing this). At this point the readings are similar but the coolant and air temperature both read -40 deg C. The engine load is 0 and so is the rpm and accelerator pedal position 0% (usually reads 11%).

Time to throw in the towel I reckon (well it will be once the grounds and resistance test are done!)
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Thanks Ron. Another thing to check then. Will have to read up on it. Is that the bit after the barel? Or the barel too?

Done the EVAP canister today (had already bought it 2nd hand so thought I may as well), cleaned all the ground points in the engine bay, also the strap from battery to block and one from block to wheel arch. Not found the others (in door entries? I also thought there was one on the tailgate? I have a cab, so not sure if they are different?

Noticed tonight that the intake temp sensor was very loose so took it out and cleaned it and nipped it up tighter. No stall as yet (see what tomorrow brings). My friend turned up tonight and saw it stall earlier and reckons my battery is weak (only reading 12.3v when car off) as when fan kicked in the lights really dimmed and it read only 11.2 and at one point with air con on and the fan it dropped to 10.6v. Hmmm. What capacity battery should I have as not sure it is that good!
 
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