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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Today I was replacing my back brakes. I happened to notice that the undercoating near the top of the shock was bubbling. I little poking with a screwdriver revealed a gaping hole 2x3"!!! :cry:

I chipped away at it until I got solid metal, coated it with por-15 and glued in a piece of flashing to fill the gap, then I sprayed the whole mess with undercoating. Not my finest work, but I was kind of ticked off to find such a major hole, and it's only a temporary repair to keep the water out for now.

It turns out the strut is mounted to another solid frame like piece of metal, so no immediate worries on that front, but the hole certainly explains my leaky trunk. I didn't pull the trunk liner since I had to finish the brakes, I'll do this eventually and try to make a slightly more permanent repair.

Anyhow, there's a new place for you all to check for rust.

DOH!!
 

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Not good news at all,rust never is.

Good to use POR-15
Check up front by the strut towers, we have a rust hole at 9 o'clock, RS upper..This car was but 7 years old then.., and not even in the horrible rust belt...
Rust helped to do in my Saab 93 - the rear shock mount bracket rusted off - I never saw this one coming as the undercoating was about 1/4 inch thick here...hiding the slowing expanding corrosion- year after year..
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Yeah, I thought I was immune since cincinnati only has 3 months of winter a year, and that's pretty mild mostly.
 

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2003FXSTB said:
people in the south will never understand the evils of rust and salt:x
Yeah, my list of rust spots to look after has just been expanded to include the entire length of the lower inside hatch seam, that is the biggest so far. A few years ago I touched up a couple spots there, and now there is a line of rust running the length of the seam... sometimes I think the new "sticky" thread should have been finding rust spots, not boost leaks.

Previous interesting places were under the plastic trim on the lower edge of the door, both fuel tank straps, a few choice spots in the engine compartment, hand brake shoes (one of those actually almost rusted away), power steering cooling pipe below the oil cooler, rear calipers of course...
 

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strut towers

Can anyone here tell me how to properly fix the rusted hole the strut comes through into the trunk? Just had rubbers replaced and shop said I should to something about it withing the year as the hole is bigger than it should be. If I want to keep my car, I have to fix it properly........help.
 

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JMarkert said:
Never Sleeps!
chowe3 said:
Can anyone here tell me how to properly fix the rusted hole the strut comes through into the trunk? Just had rubbers replaced and shop said I should to something about it withing the year as the hole is bigger than it should be. If I want to keep my car, I have to fix it properly........help.
Cut out the rusted metal and weld new in. Paint the whole thing on both side with good old fashioned catalyzing epoxy primer, sand, seal, sand and cover with two color coats. Then apply undercoating to the wheel arch side.
 

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PMI or EARTHWORM, do you know where we can obtain some POR-15? Is it a special rust inhibitor or primer? Thank you for your reply!
 

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The POR-15 store in Indiana is a good retail outlet for the stuff. Yes, it is a tough and resilient primer, but it is difficult to paint over. Get some TieCoat too, to seal it. That can be painted over easily.

Frankly, I have found that epoxy primer is quite superior to POR 15.
 

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Hey! Thank you! Is epoxy primer like rustoleum primer in a can? Or does it specifically say EPOXY and where do you think I could look for it? I'm wondering because ever since I got my car, I first learned about how it could rust around the towers there, but every time I wash my car, I constantly flush water up there and it's as smooth as can be (no bubbling whatsoever) but recently when I was cleaning up my hatch, I noticed that on the passenger's side carpet, there was a streak going downward right in front of there the top of the strut would be on the carpet? Wondering where that came from, I pulled the carpet back and sure enough, the carpet was touching the tower and there was a rust stain going down from the rubber thingy where it touches the top mount as well as a black type of sealant that was sticky. So it's a little rusted, but not bad at all and I want to stop it from rusting further when I change my rear shock absorbers. Thanks a lot!
 

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JMarkert said:
Yeah, I thought I was immune since cincinnati only has 3 months of winter a year, and that's pretty mild mostly.
Just to be an ****, there are 12 months and 4 seasons, so it should be 3 months, not "only 3 months". :p
 

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struts

Leon, that is exactly what mine looked like when I had the rubbers replaced. they told me the rust had already made the hole bigger even though it looks and feels solid and that I would need to have something welded there.......hope yours is in better shape than mine.
 

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Leon said:
Hey! Thank you! Is epoxy primer like rustoleum primer in a can? Or does it specifically say EPOXY and where do you think I could look for it? I'm wondering because ever since I got my car, I first learned about how it could rust around the towers there, but every time I wash my car, I constantly flush water up there and it's as smooth as can be (no bubbling whatsoever) but recently when I was cleaning up my hatch, I noticed that on the passenger's side carpet, there was a streak going downward right in front of there the top of the strut would be on the carpet? Wondering where that came from, I pulled the carpet back and sure enough, the carpet was touching the tower and there was a rust stain going down from the rubber thingy where it touches the top mount as well as a black type of sealant that was sticky. So it's a little rusted, but not bad at all and I want to stop it from rusting further when I change my rear shock absorbers. Thanks a lot!
Take a wire brush to it then sandpaper. Get all the rust off mechanically that you can. Then paint some naval jelly or some other chemical rust dissolver on it. Wash it all off and dry it real well. Mask around it real well and spray some cold galvanizing compound on it. Let dry one hour and then spray your epoxy primer. You will have to get the epoxy from a body shop supply store or maybe online. It is a two stage paint - you must mix a catalyst into it. It has a pot life of about 2 hours after you mix it up. Since you are painting where no one will see, you can brush it on. Let it dry at least 12 hours or force dry for 8.
 

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Thank you all for your replies! I sure hope that the hole isn't bigger than it should be... So do you guys suggest that when I change my struts, should I just use some black RTV silicone sealant around the hole and under the rubber piece? I don't know why, but on both sides, the black stuff saab had used is really sticky and I think it just wasn't sealed up right so it got past the lower washer you can see in the wheel arch and seeped inside trickling down the tower. I just basically want to do a good job resealing everything so the water won't come inside again. ( I think that when the new struts are in, from the outside above the tire, I'll spray the underbody coating stuff all around that rubber grommet to help seal stuff up. Peace!
 

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follow up to struts

Tell me I'm lazy, but found a body guy that is going to sandblast all the rust, weld in a new plate for the struts and then put the por stuff all over. for the price sure beats doing it myself and my car will be whole again:cheesy:. I am also going to oil undercoat the hell out of it to stave off any further rust from forming. Thank you all for you input, the body shop is doing everything you guys have talked about. not a whole lot to cut out though, rust is still real new, mostly just blasting and welding in a new plate. thanks again.
 
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