SaabCentral Forums banner
1 - 20 of 35 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So about a month ago, I noticed my car didn't have as much power as it had when I bought it. It seemed kind of sluggish, and seemed to hesitate and surge a bit, but I thought nothing of it at the time since it's very cold out.

After a while it got worse... and worse... and even more progressively worse.

After Google'ing for an answer, I found changing the spark plugs solved some people's problems. I changed the spark plugs with brand new iridiums. This seemed to help a little but not a lot. This lasted for about a week until the CEL came and LHM (limp-home mode) came.

Everything sounded the same engine wise, so I figured there was nothing wrong with the engine internally. After Google'ing my CEL codes and lots of searching, people were constantly mentioning throttle body issues. People were saying they needed a whole brand new throttle body unit, and things were starting to look bad for my case.

Since P2135 is TPS (Throttle body positioning sensor) not agreeing by 4.5 percent or more for 1 second, something must be wrong with my throttle body. I searched high and low for SOMETHING on how to clean my model and year's throttle body on the internet. Absolutely nothing, unless I'm terrible at searching, but I think that's not the case.


This is how I cleaned my 2007 Saab 9-3 2.0T's throttle body, and solved all of the mentioned issues.

1.) After taking off the black cover on your engine, you'll see a huge black hose going into your throttle body. This was EXTREMELY hard to get off, and took quite a bit of prying. It seemed as though it had never been taken off.




2.) If you look inside, you can see the carbon buildup on the throttle body flapper, which I believe is called the butterfly flap(per?) It's all around the edges, and that is what makes it stick or get blocked if not cleaned.




3.) This is where it gets kind of weird. We used CRC Throttle Body cleaner, but it specifically states on the back NOT to use it on cars with turbos. So make sure you're careful. My Dad put a rag inside the throttle body itself to soak up extra fluid as he sprayed it in. After a fair amount of spraying and rubbing, it looked shiny again. But, I should mention that these rags were white when we started... Throttle bodies get very dirty over time.




4.) Finally, the results. Clean as can be!





5.) After we finished cleaning the throttle body, we moved to the MAF sensor, for which I bought CRC Mass Air Flow sensor cleaner. To be honest, it didn't look like the MAF sensor was even dirty, unless it always looks that way, so I believe the throttle body was causing all these issues.

6.) We put it all back together and let it sit for about 30 minutes in case there was extra cleaner that needed to evaporate yet. We took a battery cable off for those 30 minutes to reset my CEL and codes that were stored so we had a fresh start. People claim to pull fuse 17 as well, but that wasn't necessary for us.

7.) Here's another part that I found to be weird that we also did just for additional steps. While searching on the internet, people claim you can reset or re-calibrate the throttle positioning sensor by...

a.) Holding the key fab in your hand.
b.) Pressing the accelerator ALL the way to the floor with the key in your hand.
c.) Putting the key in, and turning it to on.
d.) WAIT for it say "Check OK." like it normally does, with your foot still to the floor.
e.) Start the car, and wait for it to idle like normal before taking your foot off.

The engine will NOT race once started. It will idle just like normal with your foot all the way to the floor. This apparently resets or re-calibrates this sensor.
I don't know if anyone can confirm or deny this, but it would be nice to know.



After that, I fired it up and there was no rough idle anymore to start. After a minute or so of sitting, it took it out and let it warm up at lower speeds. Once it was warmed up, it took off like a bullet without even the slightest hesitation. When I'd go up a hill before the cleaning, my turbo and RPMs would surge and flutter constantly. After the cleaning, it moved smoothly and not even a flutter at all. I drove around and tested it for an hour and nothing seemed to be wrong at all.



I hope someone finds this of use, as I couldn't find anything about cleaning or locating the throttle body for my year.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
265 Posts
im going to ask our mechanic to do this for us

So about a month ago, I noticed my car didn't have as much power as it had when I bought it. It seemed kind of sluggish, and seemed to hesitate and surge a bit, but I thought nothing of it at the time since it's very cold out.

After a while it got worse... and worse... and even more progressively worse.

After Google'ing for an answer, I found changing the spark plugs solved some people's problems. I changed the spark plugs with brand new iridiums. This seemed to help a little but not a lot. This lasted for about a week until the CEL came and LHM (limp-home mode) came.

Everything sounded the same engine wise, so I figured there was nothing wrong with the engine internally. After Google'ing my CEL codes and lots of searching, people were constantly mentioning throttle body issues. People were saying they needed a whole brand new throttle body unit, and things were starting to look bad for my case.

Since P2135 is TPS (Throttle body positioning sensor) not agreeing by 4.5 percent or more for 1 second, something must be wrong with my throttle body. I searched high and low for SOMETHING on how to clean my model and year's throttle body on the internet. Absolutely nothing, unless I'm terrible at searching, but I think that's not the case.


This is how I cleaned my 2007 Saab 9-3 2.0T's throttle body, and solved all of the mentioned issues.

1.) After taking off the black cover on your engine, you'll see a huge black hose going into your throttle body. This was EXTREMELY hard to get off, and took quite a bit of prying. It seemed as though it had never been taken off.




2.) If you look inside, you can see the carbon buildup on the throttle body flapper, which I believe is called the butterfly flap(per?) It's all around the edges, and that is what makes it stick or get blocked if not cleaned.




3.) This is where it gets kind of weird. We used CRC Throttle Body cleaner, but it specifically states on the back NOT to use it on cars with turbos. So make sure you're careful. My Dad put a rag inside the throttle body itself to soak up extra fluid as he sprayed it in. After a fair amount of spraying and rubbing, it looked shiny again. But, I should mention that these rags were white when we started... Throttle bodies get very dirty over time.




4.) Finally, the results. Clean as can be!





5.) After we finished cleaning the throttle body, we moved to the MAF sensor, for which I bought CRC Mass Air Flow sensor cleaner. To be honest, it didn't look like the MAF sensor was even dirty, unless it always looks that way, so I believe the throttle body was causing all these issues.

6.) We put it all back together and let it sit for about 30 minutes in case there was extra cleaner that needed to evaporate yet. We took a battery cable off for those 30 minutes to reset my CEL and codes that were stored so we had a fresh start. People claim to pull fuse 17 as well, but that wasn't necessary for us.

7.) Here's another part that I found to be weird that we also did just for additional steps. While searching on the internet, people claim you can reset or re-calibrate the throttle positioning sensor by...

a.) Holding the key fab in your hand.
b.) Pressing the accelerator ALL the way to the floor with the key in your hand.
c.) Putting the key in, and turning it to on.
d.) WAIT for it say "Check OK." like it normally does, with your foot still to the floor.
e.) Start the car, and wait for it to idle like normal before taking your foot off.

The engine will NOT race once started. It will idle just like normal with your foot all the way to the floor. This apparently resets or re-calibrates this sensor.
I don't know if anyone can confirm or deny this, but it would be nice to know.



After that, I fired it up and there was no rough idle anymore to start. After a minute or so of sitting, it took it out and let it warm up at lower speeds. Once it was warmed up, it took off like a bullet without even the slightest hesitation. When I'd go up a hill before the cleaning, my turbo and RPMs would surge and flutter constantly. After the cleaning, it moved smoothly and not even a flutter at all. I drove around and tested it for an hour and nothing seemed to be wrong at all.



I hope someone finds this of use, as I couldn't find anything about cleaning or locating the throttle body for my year.

ok, coley.... i have had the exact same symptoms the last few days since the weather went to single digits around here... 09 2.0t 110k highway...

i keep going into limp home mode, and i have the low power, the surging, etc... i have done the reset a bunch ot times, which has restored normal operation, only to fall back into limp home mode again....

this info is very helpful.... thank for your time and the pictures.... i would be tempted to try it myself, but.... well.... anyway.... its too friggin cold in the garage...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
You're welcome, I was hoping this would help out others since there wasn't as much information on the internet as I thought there would be about this.

I assume your car's engine layout will be very similar to mine, so you shouldn't have that many problems.

The throttle body cleaner costs like $6.00 and the MAF sensor cleaner costs like $8.00. So for that little it's well worth the clean-up, even if it doesn't help your situation.


Also, when you go into LHM, you are getting a check engine light, correct? Have you had it read, and are you getting P2135 and/or P1681 for codes? If you are, I think this will help you out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
265 Posts
engine code p2135 and p1681 is what im getting

You're welcome, I was hoping this would help out others since there wasn't as much information on the internet as I thought there would be about this.

I assume your car's engine layout will be very similar to mine, so you shouldn't have that many problems.

The throttle body cleaner costs like $6.00 and the MAF sensor cleaner costs like $8.00. So for that little it's well worth the clean-up, even if it doesn't help your situation.


Also, when you go into LHM, you are getting a check engine light, correct? Have you had it read, and are you getting P2135 and/or P1681 for codes? If you are, I think this will help you out.

yes, i'm getting the codes mentioned above...have you been operating problem free during this cold snap... and how long have you felt like it was fixed without reoccurnence... just curious
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
yes, i'm getting the codes mentioned above...have you been operating problem free during this cold snap... and how long have you felt like it was fixed without reoccurnence... just curious
Well we did it all yesterday, and it seemed to be at 100% yesterday. It has been sitting for close to 20 hours before I leave for work, so we'll see how it runs then, and I'll report back with results.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
yes, i'm getting the codes mentioned above...have you been operating problem free during this cold snap... and how long have you felt like it was fixed without reoccurnence... just curious
Well, it is still working absolutely perfectly. Not the slightest surge, hesitation, OR the dreaded CEL and LHM! It is roughly 10-17 degrees out, and it sat out all night in nearly below zero to a little above zero temps. It started just fine, with a little roughness that smoothed out after 5-10 seconds like normal.

After work, the same thing. I really recommend doing this once it warms up by you. It will be about 38 degrees Monday, so that's car wash day finally! Hahah.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
265 Posts
thanks for the update

Well, it is still working absolutely perfectly. Not the slightest surge, hesitation, OR the dreaded CEL and LHM! It is roughly 10-17 degrees out, and it sat out all night in nearly below zero to a little above zero temps. It started just fine, with a little roughness that smoothed out after 5-10 seconds like normal.

After work, the same thing. I really recommend doing this once it warms up by you. It will be about 38 degrees Monday, so that's car wash day finally! Hahah.
thx coleys, yeah its going to warm up on mon tues around here....I'm going to print your post and give to the mechanic we use, probably next week...

today i tried some driving around and reset procedures (start car with acc all the way down procedure, and i used my scan tool to clear the codes...) but it kept throwing p2135 and going into LHM after about 30 seconds... So, I,m going to ask the mechanics to do what you did plus clean the throttle body connector pins and clean the air horn that covers the throttle body opening... as was posted by someone else...unless he finds something else...

hope they have found and fixed this before.. they have been doing saabs for quite some time...

car needs to run nomally, LHM is very unpleasant... no low end power, surging turbo boost, until you reach > 30mph when it seems to act normal... but in stop and go, it will cause a lot of angry tailgaters or an accident...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
thx coleys, yeah its going to warm up on mon tues around here....I'm going to print your post and give to the mechanic we use, probably next week...

today i tried some driving around and reset procedures (start car with acc all the way down procedure, and i used my scan tool to clear the codes...) but it kept throwing p2135 and going into LHM after about 30 seconds... So, I,m going to ask the mechanics to do what you did plus clean the throttle body connector pins and clean the air horn that covers the throttle body opening... as was posted by someone else...unless he finds something else...

hope they have found and fixed this before.. they have been doing saabs for quite some time...

car needs to run nomally, LHM is very unpleasant... no low end power, surging turbo boost, until you reach > 30mph when it seems to act normal... but in stop and go, it will cause a lot of angry tailgaters or an accident...
I agree, it's so annoying to drive in LHM, but then again I'm glad my car watches out for itself!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Hey Coleys, has your car been working trouble free?

I had the CEL come on and the car went into LHM yesterday. My turbo has been fluttering for some time now...but only when it has gotten cold (below 30 deg. F or so). And, I've noticed the idle has been very rough lately too. But yesterday is when it finally took a dump.

I dropped the car off at the dealership and they pulled code P1681. The dealership could not figure out what to do because they could not reach their support hotline, but their next move was to replace the ECU, per the manual. I'm not confident that this will fix the issue...so I decided to scour the web and see if others have had this issue.

Thanks for this thread Coleys...my next step will be to do exactly what you did.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
265 Posts
p1681 and p2135 and lhm

Hey Coleys, has your car been working trouble free?

I had the CEL come on and the car went into LHM yesterday. My turbo has been fluttering for some time now...but only when it has gotten cold (below 30 deg. F or so). And, I've noticed the idle has been very rough lately too. But yesterday is when it finally took a dump.

I dropped the car off at the dealership and they pulled code P1681. The dealership could not figure out what to do because they could not reach their support hotline, but their next move was to replace the ECU, per the manual. I'm not confident that this will fix the issue...so I decided to scour the web and see if others have had this issue.

Thanks for this thread Coleys...my next step will be to do exactly what you did.
sashok, I had a severe case of what you had recently... stumped the mechanic, and his WIS said to replace the ECU... a $500 part.... long story short... that part did not fix my problem....

topsaab, a contributor on this board replied to my posts and said to check the wiring harness connector under the battery box, which my mechanic also traced down after he had replaced the ECM and had my throttle body sent out for repair....

so before you do anything drastic, have the shop access the connector, clean it, spray it, and recouple it, reset the engine fault, drive it for a while and see if it clears...

coleys suggestion did not fix our problem, although we did clean all areas around the throttle body anyway, and it does seem to run with more smoothness and peppiness after all this work... but the culprit was the connector... you can see it if you pop the hood and look down from the battery box.... it seems to be in an exposed place, where moisture and airflow would get at the pins... also, we did a major engine rehab job to fix a major problem, and it may have been disturbed during the process....

hope this helps....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
134 Posts
connector h42-1

sashok, I had a severe case of what you had recently... stumped the mechanic, and his WIS said to replace the ECU... a $500 part.... long story short... that part did not fix my problem....

topsaab, a contributor on this board replied to my posts and said to check the wiring harness connector under the battery box, which my mechanic also traced down after he had replaced the ECM and had my throttle body sent out for repair....

so before you do anything drastic, have the shop access the connector, clean it, spray it, and recouple it, reset the engine fault, drive it for a while and see if it clears...

coleys suggestion did not fix our problem, although we did clean all areas around the throttle body anyway, and it does seem to run with more smoothness and peppiness after all this work... but the culprit was the connector... you can see it if you pop the hood and look down from the battery box.... it seems to be in an exposed place, where moisture and airflow would get at the pins... also, we did a major engine rehab job to fix a major problem, and it may have been disturbed during the process....

hope this helps....
+1

connector h42-1
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
265 Posts
connector

+1

connector h42-1
hey topsaab.... question... after we did all the work i previously described.... i noticed on the way home that the dash fuel gauge was dead...

when our mechanic replaced the ECM and cleaned and did the connectors, was it possible that he forgot to reconnect something...does that gauge also communicate through that connector...

what would you check first if you had a fuel gauge that wasn't responding?

thanks....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
793 Posts
Gage does communicate thru that connector...a black wire on pin 19(black/blue on the other side) and a gray on pin 16(blue/white)...sometimes there is corrosion at that connector.

Is there ANY chance that this is related to the intake valves "chamfering", losing compression when very cold? For some reason, bad heat-treating? during/after 07 (even though these valves started to be used in 05) these IVs are having their problems.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
134 Posts
hey topsaab.... question... after we did all the work i previously described.... i noticed on the way home that the dash fuel gauge was dead...

when our mechanic replaced the ECM and cleaned and did the connectors, was it possible that he forgot to reconnect something...does that gauge also communicate through that connector...

what would you check first if you had a fuel gauge that wasn't responding?

thanks....
it would prob be the fuel sending unit.. once the connector is connected everything sits tight.. unless the pin is loose.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
265 Posts
fuel gauge connector

Gage does communicate thru that connector...a black wire on pin 19(black/blue on the other side) and a gray on pin 16(blue/white)...sometimes there is corrosion at that connector.

Is there ANY chance that this is related to the intake valves "chamfering", losing compression when very cold? For some reason, bad heat-treating? during/after 07 (even though these valves started to be used in 05) these IVs are having their problems.
thx dslsabe, I'll be sure to tell the tech... next time i go in for an oil change, i'll ask to have the thing checked... although, i'm nervous about fiddling with the thing at this point...

my intake valves had to be replaced.... it's a long story.... I don't see how that problem could have anything to do with a connector...

the valves were worn down by some reaction that i'm guessing was related to insufficient heat tolerance... because the turbocharging?. .. the exhaust gases being forced into the intake stroke? hotter than the intake valves could withstand?... still not totally sure why these saabs valves are failing.... it would take an thermodynamic engineer to figure it out... and I'm not one....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
265 Posts
fuel sending unit

it would prob be the fuel sending unit.. once the connector is connected everything sits tight.. unless the pin is loose.
thx topsaab...is the fuel sending unit anywhere near the connector that was worked on recently.... if you unplug the connector, clean the crap out of it to fix the p2135.... could you loosen or damage the pin that talks to the fuel sending unit?

i'll ask the tech to double check the connector, but you've got to get the battery out...etc... so it's not the easiest thing to do... and as i say..i'm not sure i want to fiddle with the thing too much... i can live without the gauge for a while...

thx for the info
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
I would like to provide an update on the work I did over the weekend – maybe this will help some people…

The problem that I was having was that my vehicle (2009 9-3) was going into limp home mode and I had and engine light MIL come on. The codes that I pulled were P1681 and P0245 (I found about this second code after pulling codes on my own). The symptoms were a rough idle and turbo flutter. The symptoms were initially detected a long time ago, but they were mostly present when the temperature was below ~30 deg. F.

I dropped of the vehicle at the dealership last week, but they were not sure of how to fix the problem. Their next step was to replace the ECU ($600 + $100 for labor), which was not in stock. I wasn’t certain that this would fix the problem and didn’t want to drop that kind of money just to try it. Therefore, I decided to do some research and came upon this post…

So I followed the advice that I found in this post, and some others. I did three things…so I’m not certain as to what exactly fixed my issues. But, doing all three did not take long, 3-4 hours – not bad, considering that I had a tough time taking apart some of these things.

1) I took off and cleaned the throttle body as explained by Coleys. When I managed to take off the hose from the throttle body (this was a pain!), I noticed that the throttle body was not even that dirty. It looked very clean, with just a little bit of carbon/oil build-up around the perimeter of the neck. The flap was clean. Regardless, I took it off and cleaned it thoroughly with throttle body cleaner and a rag. I re-installed it with a new gasket ($6 @ the dealership).
2) I cleaned the MAF sensor using MAF sensor cleaner. This was easy…but I don’t think this was the cause of the problem.
3) I cleaned the gray connector underneath the battery box, as explained by RICHARDBROWN. The connector is underneath the battery box, which is easy to remove. Unfortunately, the connector is not easy to access even with the battery box removed because it is attached to the body. I disconnected it by carefully prying/pulling up on the red portion/clip at the top, sprayed both sides with the MAF sensor cleaner, and blew the excess liquid out with a compressor.

I took the vehicle out for a drive and (almost) everything was good. The rough idle issue was gone, and the throttle response was smooth. No more turbo flutter!

But…my fuel gauge appeared to be not functioning. I had a low fuel light come on and the message told me to re-fuel right away. I thought that I disturbed something in the connector when I cleaned it, so I ended up spending another hour taking everything apart and carefully checking the connector, only to find…nothing. I reassembled everything and the fuel gauge was still at zero. Then, it occurred to me that maybe the fuel sender needed to be re-calibrated (just a theory). I had a 1/4 tank of fuel before I disconnected the battery…so maybe this was low enough for the fuel sender to think that there was no fuel in the tank. I filled up my car completely, started it up, and the gauge went to FULL!

As of right now, I have driven ~35 miles and everything appears to be working great. If I have issues, I’ll provide updates. Thanks for everyone’s help! I hope this helps somebody…
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
265 Posts
good info

I would like to provide an update on the work I did over the weekend – maybe this will help some people…

The problem that I was having was that my vehicle (2009 9-3) was going into limp home mode and I had and engine light MIL come on. The codes that I pulled were P1681 and P0245 (I found about this second code after pulling codes on my own). The symptoms were a rough idle and turbo flutter. The symptoms were initially detected a long time ago, but they were mostly present when the temperature was below ~30 deg. F.

I dropped of the vehicle at the dealership last week, but they were not sure of how to fix the problem. Their next step was to replace the ECU ($600 + $100 for labor), which was not in stock. I wasn’t certain that this would fix the problem and didn’t want to drop that kind of money just to try it. Therefore, I decided to do some research and came upon this post…

So I followed the advice that I found in this post, and some others. I did three things…so I’m not certain as to what exactly fixed my issues. But, doing all three did not take long, 3-4 hours – not bad, considering that I had a tough time taking apart some of these things.

1) I took off and cleaned the throttle body as explained by Coleys. When I managed to take off the hose from the throttle body (this was a pain!), I noticed that the throttle body was not even that dirty. It looked very clean, with just a little bit of carbon/oil build-up around the perimeter of the neck. The flap was clean. Regardless, I took it off and cleaned it thoroughly with throttle body cleaner and a rag. I re-installed it with a new gasket ($6 @ the dealership).
2) I cleaned the MAF sensor using MAF sensor cleaner. This was easy…but I don’t think this was the cause of the problem.
3) I cleaned the gray connector underneath the battery box, as explained by RICHARDBROWN. The connector is underneath the battery box, which is easy to remove. Unfortunately, the connector is not easy to access even with the battery box removed because it is attached to the body. I disconnected it by carefully prying/pulling up on the red portion/clip at the top, sprayed both sides with the MAF sensor cleaner, and blew the excess liquid out with a compressor.

I took the vehicle out for a drive and (almost) everything was good. The rough idle issue was gone, and the throttle response was smooth. No more turbo flutter!

But…my fuel gauge appeared to be not functioning. I had a low fuel light come on and the message told me to re-fuel right away. I thought that I disturbed something in the connector when I cleaned it, so I ended up spending another hour taking everything apart and carefully checking the connector, only to find…nothing. I reassembled everything and the fuel gauge was still at zero. Then, it occurred to me that maybe the fuel sender needed to be re-calibrated (just a theory). I had a 1/4 tank of fuel before I disconnected the battery…so maybe this was low enough for the fuel sender to think that there was no fuel in the tank. I filled up my car completely, started it up, and the gauge went to FULL!

As of right now, I have driven ~35 miles and everything appears to be working great. If I have issues, I’ll provide updates. Thanks for everyone’s help! I hope this helps somebody…
sashok... thanks for posting this info... I'm sure it will help someone, you were smart to refuse the ECM replacement... you saved a big chunk of dough... better still, it would not have fixed it....

this problem with code 1681 and 2135 is coming up a lot.... and it seems that replacing the ECM is not necessary... the connector seems to the culprit, as i learned from topsaab on this board....

we also experienced the fuel gauge not reading correctly after unplugging the connector... however, when i filled up, it still showed a bad reading...half full... ours seems to just sit at half full... right now, we are just working around the problem with the trip odometer... next time we go for an oil change I'll ask the tech to see if he can fix it.. i could take out the battery box... but I'm afraid to fiddle with it... it's a minor' annoyance compared to Limp Home Mode....i wonder if the ECM needs to be reset... we did end up replacing our ECM before we traced down the connector as the culprit:(
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
I know this is an old thread, but for anyone else lurking, Coleys suggestion to clean the TB worked wonders for my 2007 9-3 w/ 140k miles. I had the same symptoms, rough idle, surging, horrible acceleration and the turbo needle looked to be swaying in the breeze.

I was pulling P2135 and P1681 constantly during my 20mi commute and going into LHM. Later, I actually failed inspection since I reset the CEL on my own and didn't realize I needed to drive 100mi with no issues for the system to reset.

After the mechanic who inspected told me cleaning the TB would NOT work and I would need a rebuilt TB @ $600 plus labor, I said f%&k off and cleaned it anyway. 4 days later I have driven over 150mi and no issues with idle, acceleration is much better, cruising at 80-85mph is smooth. I really can't believe how much better the car runs for a $9 can and some elbow grease.

PS - make sure you have a pick tool if you attempt to clean the TB, that hose is tough to remove, mine was fused to the TB.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
736 Posts
Same problems here, same solution (cleaning) and everything's OK now.
The classic easy to do 20$ job, that fixes a problem! :cool:
 
1 - 20 of 35 Posts
Top