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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I have done a lot of work lately and new things keep popping up. I'm starting to get exasperated.

I have a clickety klack noise most apparently heard from under the car transmission side. Mechanic dropped the pan and found the piston rod end caps too have excessive side to side play. He slapped it back together and did not get a good seal on the pan and used ****ty blue RTV gasket maker. I noticed the pan was leaking onto the DP and first started to notice a some hiccups at idle.

I DIYed the big end bearings after this - put the caps on backwards first @&$!. Redid the job the next weekend and got the car running again. I cleaned the Seating surfaces of the pan and bottom end to perfection, resealed the pan with Permatex 518 and torqued all the bolts to 17 ft/lbs. well it is still leaking right next to the timing cover and dripping onto the DP.

Car is idling like complete crap still until it has been driven for 20 mins or so. Klackity klack noise which I replaced the bearings to make go away is still there too. I checked the PCV check valve and it is functioning. Idle dives down, chugs, then comes back up. Putting my foot on the gas and trying to hold RPMs anywhere below 2500 also is futile. RPMs keep fluctuating below that mark with my foot unwavering.

Car cruises around town and on the freeway smoothly, just a lower RPM band issue when the engine is not warm.

So, question, besides "what the heck is this?:". The flex pipe on the DP before the cat appears to be a bit ratty on top, possibly leaking. The oil pan is dripping right onto this area. I can smell a sulfurous stench if I turn the vent on. Is it possible that o2 sensor #2 has become fouled by this? Will an o2 sensor cause crappy readings (rich fuel) to be reported to the ECU and will this cause the engine to retard ignition from these false readings and cause the stumbling?

How do I get this blasted pan sealed without dropping the subframe again...

I am at my wits and and really tired of throwing parts at this car. If this ends up being an easy fix I will move onto the Klickety Klack. If not I might just give up...

Btw this is a B205 T7 base model.
 

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Idle could be a bad MAF or IAC valve.
There is a tutorial posted on removing and cleaning up the IAC valve. (That's free before you go and replace it)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I've had a bad MAF before and it caused poor running conditions at WOT. T7 has electronically controlled TB and no IAC. Both TB and MAF were replaced some years ago.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Fixed! I started doing PCV #6 update (I only have #4) and replaced the pcv breather nipple on the valve cover. The bushing surrounding the plastic was hardened and the nipple was very brittle and I could only remove it in pieces. I took the valve cover off just to make sure no pieces made it inside and resealed everything with a thin veneer of Permatex 518.

No more idle problems. I imagine the nipple was not getting a good seal anymore and causing the oil pressure to fluctuate. It could have been the valve cover also, but there was no oil seep. The only oil on the cover was around the nipple. I just assumed I had spilled a tad On my last fill.
 
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