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Discussion Starter #1
The car (92 900s) was cranking but not starting, so I pulled the rotor and took it in to the parts store. I was told it looked worn and (the rotor arm?) was bent. I bought a new one and a distributor cap. The rotor was not going on so I gently tapped it. Apparently I tapped it with enough force to break it. Is it usually difficult to get the rotor on? BTW, I know there is only one way it goes.:D
 

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Shouldn't really be too difficult. Sometimes they were secured with locktite or similar and there may be some of that remaining. I've never found locktite very neccesary.
 

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Auto-zone lists the wrong cap and rotor for 16v engines, perhaps its a similar issue. Take the broken one back to where you got it.
 

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there is a thin and thick shaft type for rotor arm but the cap is the same for all. always keep the old set by the battery,(in the boxes with no's on) then if you need to get a new one you can take it in to shop, and if you break one you have a spare(even if its nackered, better than bust):cheesy:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the help...it looks like I got the thin shaft (hehehe). I just put the old one back on, since it really doesn't look that burned to me. In any case, I will order the correct one tomorrow from eEuroparts. Should I order the Bougicord wire set at the same time? I think that I have read on this forum that other wire sets are far inferior and may be the cause of many small problems. It this the general consensus?

I know that I still have the old rotor, but I get the sense that this will not solve my starting problem. In the last few weeks, the car would run a little rough for the first 5 minutes or so. During this time the check engine light would be on. Then at some point it would turn off. Does this indicate a usual problem?

Thanks again for the help.

Jason
 

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bougicords are ok any good make are normally suitable,i once had a new set of a scrap bmw, bonnet was up next to the saab and they must have been on a week at the most. air mass meter(AMM) might be a problem, try a another if possible before buying one.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the suggestion. The AMM on the car was replaced about 9 months ago (and as I recall, it was expensive), so I hope that that is not the problem. When I turn the key, I hear the fuel pump. The engine will crank for 5 seconds, and then for 2 seconds act like it is going to start and then continue cranking. I'll get a new rotor and hope that fixes it.
 
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