SaabCentral Forums banner

1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,035 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
ratated the wheels and found out a (bomb went off?), anywho on the passenger side wheel area has some damaged parts, my c/v boot has seemed to have collapsed in on itself, i hear no noticeable click or any noises, should a simple boot repair do the trick? or is the joint damaged? hasn't been like this too long as i check these things every couple weeks. next is this piece of rubber falling off inside my suspension!, something to worry about? and then on the drivers side, pic comming soon! the shock mount is rusted!!! starnge as the rest of the car is very very rust free!(except a small bit on the wheel arch, coin sized area under the car, and a few specks)
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,222 Posts
You have to take the C/V joint off in order to replace the boot, so you can do a thorough inspection then. It's a messy job.

The bump stop should be replaced so you don't bottom out too bad (Which is probably what caused the damage).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
569 Posts
i don't know if you guys have autozone where you live... but go to a large parts house. you should be able to buy a compelete axle/cv/boot assembly for about $120 USD. it comes with both inner and outer joints, both boots, the axle, and even a new axle nut... all of it is already put together, so all you have to do is pull the old one out and slide the new one in--no messy swapping of CV's themselves. check it out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18,382 Posts
Ha, I can get rebuilt CV's for 80$.

I think not much has happened here actually. Looks like the boot was installed poorly and there is a vacuum inside. If you feel bad still, go and slightly open the clamp, it will suck in some air and close it again. If it ain't broke don't fix it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
569 Posts
yes, but you're talking about rebuilt CV'S, i'm talking about the WHOLE AXLE ASSEMBLY. that's EVERYTHING included. inner and outer CV's, boots, axle, axle nut, EVERYTHING. and it's all assembled. the outer joint even already has grease and everything. all you have to do is pull the whole old one out, grease the inner joint, and slide it in. no messing with swapping boots and cleaning joints, no messing with old dirty axles, no messing with removing Cv's from axles... just pull old out, swap new in. oh yeah, and it comes with a lifetime warranty. somehow the first one i put in snapped (not sure how that happened, it wasn't even a hard launch) and i got a second one for free, not too bad and it hasn't given me any trouble for almost a year. you'll take much less chance in messing it up by buying the whole thing. and being that you're only 17, i expect you're a very busy person. tell ya what. i've seen CV's on europarts or something for like $70. i've swapped CV's before, the hard way, and it sucked. spend the extra $50, work a few more hours at your job instead of on your car, and rest assured that you've just replaced that whole side of your driveline. you won't have to replace the inner joint in a month. think about it.;)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,220 Posts
Just today, I replaced the LH drive axle on our 1990 900S with an exchange-rebuilt unit. It was from NAPA, and cost $68. (The repair was needed because the CV boot had torn sometime over the winter, and the joint started clicking and popping alarmingly loudly on full lock.)

You could just replace a damaged boot on a CV joint, but this will only help if the boot ruptured very recently and if you thoroughly clean out and repack the joint's insides.

It's a gamble, because you can never be sure how much grit got in through that torn boot. This is why I, too, recommend buying a complete exchange-rebuilt axle.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
569 Posts
ProfZ said:
Just today, I replaced the LH drive axle on our 1990 900S with an exchange-rebuilt unit. It was from NAPA, and cost $68. (The repair was needed because the CV boot had torn sometime over the winter, and the joint started clicking and popping alarmingly loudly on full lock.)

You could just replace a damaged boot on a CV joint, but this will only help if the boot ruptured very recently and if you thoroughly clean out and repack the joint's insides.

It's a gamble, because you can never be sure how much grit got in through that torn boot. This is why I, too, recommend buying a complete exchange-rebuilt axle.
wait a minute... you bought the WHOLE assembly, just as i described for only $68?! holy crap... shoulda shopped napa :eek:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,220 Posts
I just looked at my receipt, and the axle actually cost me $62:cheesy:

For the Classic 900, if you're looking for consumables like brake parts, shocks, belts, water and power-steering pumps, axles, ball joints, etc., you can often get great prices from the big autoparts places--but you have to shop around, because prices vary tremendously:cool:

For items the "big guys" don't carry, I've never found anybody whose prices beat www.eeuroparts.com :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
219 Posts
ProfZ said:
I stopped looking other places for my saab parts.
This place is wonderful...fast shipping, best price, best designed website for car parts ever (I always know exactly what part to buy).

I buy used parts at english/swedish spares, get cheap as dirt used parts from the 15 Classic 900s at my pull-apart yard, and buy my new parts from eeuroparts.com
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,035 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
900t said:
Ha, I can get rebuilt CV's for 80$.

I think not much has happened here actually. Looks like the boot was installed poorly and there is a vacuum inside. If you feel bad still, go and slightly open the clamp, it will suck in some air and close it again. If it ain't broke don't fix it.
i think your right. from past experience when a boot leaks or is damaged it will make a big gressy mess! i have no noise (except turning full lock has more resistence than i noticed before i went away a few weeks ago, prob more related to the rack) i can't find a split or hole or anything in the boot either. so really i'm dealing with a collapsed c/v boot, it hasn't been this way for anymore than a month as i check these things on a regular basis. i wouldn't mind just fixing it if i didn't have other repairs to do. just this morning i think i discovered my headgasket is prob bad too:cry: , missfire on cold starts with some grey smoke out the back. hopefully this could be the issue to my white smoke on extended idle and not the turbo:confused:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18,382 Posts
Time for eeuroparts. I have to change my 1990 900t headgasket too.

Maybe they'll give us a package deal, with everyone here, how about we buy 12 gasket sets and they give us a break? :)
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top