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Florida to Canada, 2,400 miles...what should I have done/checked prior to leaving other than oil change? 134k.

Have new master & slave, hoses, water pump, brakes, tires, exhaust, all under 500 miles.
 

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How's your a/c working? We drive all over the country in our vert and sometimes it's just too hot to have the top down. The a/c was pretty anemic until I had it serviced recently - nice and chilly now.

I'd also make sure you have a good spare tire (full sized, preferably) and jack/tools.

Although I live in Chicago now, I grew up in Canada. Where are you visiting Canada? Sounds like a wonderful trip ;ol;
 

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Accessory belts...t-stat...get the charging system checked too (battery, starter, alternator)...just to play it safe, if your car has a factory clock, I'd remove the fuse for it, so there isn't a constant drain on the battery...

I'm making plans on driving my '91 t16 vert from VA to CA in Aug, and it'll probably have 143K on it by then...but I think she's pretty much good to go, with the exception of not having replaced the radiator, but everything else in the cooling system has been replaced (hoses, t-stat, and water pump). The previous owner replaced the starter, alternator, battery, distributor, ignition coil, sparkplug wires, plugs, fuel tank, oil pump, oil pan gasket, AC hoses with R134 conversion, and had the transmission serviced and adjusted. I put on a new exhaust from the collector on back, new front ball joints, the tires are BFG Comp TAs in great shape, new FMIC, etc.

The last time I attempted this was in a '91 Mitsubishi Montero V6 that had 270K miles, and it blew a head gasket just outside Amarillo, TX. I had to rent a car for the rest of the drive back to CA, so I'm hoping if I make this trip in the Saab, I'll actually make it this time!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I'm going around Toronto but just one way, it's a move back home.

My a/c is apathetic at best but better than nothing. I had it charged but IIFC he said it needed the upper something or other and that was a lot of money. On the bright side there is no place hotter than here, well maybe hell :cool:
 

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I guess the way to look at it is from a single point of failure perspective. If a major component fails, will that stop you from completing your trip? If the AC fails, no. If the starter fails, yes. If the transmission fails, yes. If a part of the cooling system fails, depending on what it is, yes. If the rear drive fails, yes. Brakes, probably not. Tires, no. Shocks, probably not. Remember, you're driving a Saab, not a Honda or Toyota, so repair facilities will be few and far between.

But it sounds like you've taken some preventive measures for the trip, so I say roll the dice and go for it. It's not like you're in some third world country, or will be in that part of the US where you'd be at the mercy of Junior or Billy Bob.

Have fun, and be safe!
 

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Florida to Canada, 2,400 miles...what should I have done/checked prior to leaving other than oil change? 134k.

Have new master & slave, hoses, water pump, brakes, tires, exhaust, all under 500 miles.
you need nothing then, except mabe a litre of oil and a gallon of water just in case. these cars don't break down(rarely) over the 16yrs+ I have owned saab 900's the only prob I have had which made me stop was a rad leak(stone? hit) on an 8v,(my 1st 900) put some rad weld in got me back home no leak 100+mile. proper spare tyre(if available) headlight bulb, bottle of drinking water a packet of biscuits and that will do. why worry about something that probably will not happen, you see more new cars on the back of tow trucks than you ever see old ones:lol:
have a good trip;ol;
 

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I have always been of the opinion that if you wouldn't take you vehicle 1000 miles, you shouldn't be driveing around town. I guess that comes from driveing commercially and in vehicles with over 1M miles on them. I never think twice about driveing anywhere, even 200 miles from the nearest "help".
Basic things like belts (carry spares) or hoses (replace every few years and/or carry spares) and few basic tools will get you out of most minor breakdowns.
Age has little to do with if a vehicle will make it or not. I once put 900 mile in 3 days in the dead of winter where temps dropped to -23 in a 1942 International. The truck was sound so I had little fear. It was a cold drafty trip however.
 

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I, and all manufacturers agree.
In many owner's manuals they give differing maintenance schedules for light, normal, and heavy-duty operating conditions. The lightest duty, requiring the least maintenance is highway driving.
 

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I, and all manufacturers agree.
In many owner's manuals they give differing maintenance schedules for light, normal, and heavy-duty operating conditions. The lightest duty, requiring the least maintenance is highway driving.
Interesting...is that because the engine and everything else is pretty much operating at a very small rpm range? Most of our c900's, be they manual or automatics, at highway speeds, aren't turning that many rpms, so they're not putting that much stress on the drivetrain, cooling system, etc?

I could see city driving being heavy, with the constant accelerating and slowing down, starting and stopping, turning back and forth, etc. So from that perspective, once you're on the highway and cruising along, that's pretty light duty driving.
 

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Steady speed, fewer cold starts, etc all add up to long life.
An oversize load escorter that I knew had a old Ford pick-up with the 300 six. At over 450,000 miles it still didn't burn a qt in 2000 miles and looked and ran great. All easy miles being stuck ahead or behind a slow moveing load. Went through more then his share of windshields, but thats another story.
 

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Perhaps also could be considered light driving because the engine isn't working as hard to cool itself. For example, it's 90 degrees out and you're doing all that turning, starting, stopping, breaking, and accelerating in a city, thus forcing your engine to work incredibly hard to cool. Or it's 90 degrees out and you're cruising at 65 down the highway. Thus allowing the forced air into your radiator cool your car much more effortlessly and efficiently.
 

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The only other thing I would be sure was with me in my car would be my basic tool box. Frankly, it sounds like you have the car in good working order. Like Geoff Weeks, if I'm confident driving my daily commute, I'm confident taking the car on a long trip. The tool box is just in case!
 

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Actually, they have little value and are a hard sell up here. Ask me I know.
If she had a ready buyer and a decent price, good move to sell it.
 

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Now she goes looking for one to drive BACK to the Keys in (smart girl):lol:
 

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In keeping with the spirit of this thread, I'm making plans on driving my '91 from VA to CA in August. One issue that concerns me is a noise I've noticed. At idle, in drive, there's a noise that sounds like the front end is full of marbles. If I shift the car into neutral (it's an automatic), the noise goes away. The car has 143K, and the previous owner had the transmission serviced and adjusted about a year ago. I'd have to look at the receipt to get a better idea of exactly what was done, but it doesn't look like the car's been abused at all. It only seems to do it when the car is stopped and is in drive, and sound goes away as soon as you start to accelerate or put it in neutral.

Any ideas? I'm probably going to change the plugs, wires, and dist cap/rotor this weekend, as part of my preventive plan to help me make it across the country.
 

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In keeping with the spirit of this thread, I'm making plans on driving my '91 from VA to CA in August. One issue that concerns me is a noise I've noticed. At idle, in drive, there's a noise that sounds like the front end is full of marbles. If I shift the car into neutral (it's an automatic), the noise goes away. The car has 143K, and the previous owner had the transmission serviced and adjusted about a year ago. I'd have to look at the receipt to get a better idea of exactly what was done, but it doesn't look like the car's been abused at all. It only seems to do it when the car is stopped and is in drive, and sound goes away as soon as you start to accelerate or put it in neutral.

Any ideas? I'm probably going to change the plugs, wires, and dist cap/rotor this weekend, as part of my preventive plan to help me make it across the country.
Silly as it may sound, air trapped in the torque converter?
 
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