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Discussion Starter #1
Patient is a 2006 9-5 SC with Sport Suspension. I replaced the RF wheel bearing and the intermediate shaft bearing. With input from Uncle Miltie I used the WIS procedure - removed the clamp bolt for the ball joint and levered between the sway bar and the lower arm (FCA). This took me quite a while until I got the angles right. Stuck a piece of oak 1 1/2" square in between the sway bar and the lower arm. It similarly took some time to get the ball joint shaft to go back into the knuckle when I reassembled. But that said, I'm hopeful about alignment

I could tell right away that the RF wheel bearing was my daughter's noise maker. Because of a prior experience with my 1999 9-5, I also pulled the intermediate shaft to be sure I didn't fix half of a problem. That bearing was still smooth - but not so stiff as a new well-greased one, and I replaced the bearing for peace of mind. Of course, that also meant a new Corteco axle seal for the transmission.

I had a little SCOPE CREEP too. The alternator had to be removed for access to the intermediate shaft bracket / bearing carrier. When I Disconnected the positive battery cable, I discovered melted insulation at the alternator stud & nut. Sudden change of plan, and I replaced the positive battery cable with a used one that I had on hand. That's temporary, until I either spring for a new cable ($138 at eEuroparts) or have one rebuilt locally.

Thanks again Uncle Miltie for the quick response to my SOS on which method to use to remove the ball joint with least change to alignment.

P.S. I attached photos of my 'axle seal install tool'. It's a piece of 2 inch diameter white PVC pipe 54 cm (21.25 in) length. I made an "end cap" by duct taping a 955-06 press plate with its bolt onto one end. The plate is from a generic (e.g. Harbor Freight) bearing press kit, and its ID lip slips over the PVC pipe. My daughter held the knuckle & strut to one side so I could get a good hit on the pipe.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Adding a Question on Rotor retaining screw in new bearing / hub

The new hub / bearing I installed is a Timken brand - with no evidence of country of origin. I purchased it based upon Timken reputation and because the online photo (Rock Auto) showed a bearing with clear F A G logo. What I received is definitely not OE, nor is it an F A G bearing. It was not the cheapest by far, but I am wondering about quality. I know others have commented about receiving F A G bearings repackaged - but not here.

When I reinstalled the brake rotor onto the hub, the retaining screw "shouldered out" in the hub before it clamped the rotor to the hub. I know it should not really matter as long as the wheel has a recess for the protruding retaining screw and the lug bolts are all tight.

Just throwing this out there for what it's worth. The part supposedly has a 12 month warranty, so we'll see how it goes.
 

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Did you purchase the hub from RockAuto or elsewhere? If from RA, you could have grounds for complaint that it wasn't as advertised.
 
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