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Discussion Starter #1
Good day. I have a Saab 93 2002 Turbo 2.0. My gears change smooth When in Drive Mode. When I have to reverse the car I push my accelerator resulting in revving the car before it goes backwards. It was explained that if the transmission fluid is low it can be the problem. I checked my dipstick for the level and it seemed to me that it was fine however what bothers me a lot it had a black colour and smell like normal oil. Does the Engin oil and transmission oil differ from each other.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The fact that I rev the car before it reverse, can this be because of bad transmission oil
 

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Yes, but typically it happens as a result of wear to the clutches or bands. Definitely start with a full fluid replacement.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
can you provide me with a diagram as to where the drain plug is for the transmission. I checked underneath the car and it seems the oil pan has a screw but bit scared to take it off.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
how much transmission oil must I pour into gearbox when empty ? I have a 5 liter. all of it ?
 

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There is a 27mm hex bolt st the bottom of the transmission, right next to the exhaust pipe.

Drain as much as you can out - usually about 3l - then refill the exact same amount. Drive it around the block, then do it again. Repeat the process until you have drained and refilled 9-12l. When are done the fluid should be bright red. Use Dexron III or VI. IME, VI may cause slightly harsher shifts but it's lower viscosity is probably better for the transmission.

DO NOT overfill or underfill - there are marks on the dipstick for 40C and 80C. Watch the transmission temp with a scan tool. When the transmission temp is 80C, check the level. Checking the level is done with the car running, transmission in P or N, and immediately after shifting through P R N D pausing 2 seconds in each gear. Add or drain as necessary.

If you don't have a scan tool, my experience is that about 25m of idling will get a stone cold transmission to 80C. I would recommend against driving the car to warm up the transmission. Just let it idle to warm up.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
24mm HEX Bolt not 27mm. I managed to remove the bolt with a 24mm Socket and drain the oil ( Black and dirty and does not even smell like transmission oil, had a burned smell sensation and had a lot of dirt packed on the bolt itself ) After the drain, I screwed the bolt back on after I cleaned it and pour the transmission oil in from the dipstick with a funnel. I kept on checking reading after car idle, levels seems right although I have to say the dipstick does not give you any reading when the car runs, cause it works the oil through the transmission. It does have that red color on the tip of the dipstick. At this point I have used the exact amount what came out of the transmission and the 5 Liter Bottle is about half.
 

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It is difficult to read the dipstick after filling as fluid sticks to the tube. Once it has drained off the tube it becomes easier to read. That is why it's easiest to measure what comes out until you get an exact reading on the last pass.

One drain/refill is of no value. You need to repeat the process 3-4 times to do any good. Very little fluid hangs around in th sump - most of it is in the torque converter, fluid cooler, and working parts of the transmission. Keep going.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
You said not to overfill. What about the oil at the bottom of the sump ? The tip of the dipstick goes into the sump ? When the car runs it picks up the oil from the sump and runs it through the parts. If process have to repeated, does the fluid stick to the parts ? I noticed one thing that actually makes sense. The tube is still oily as you said. But not to go pass the mark by pouring more fluid in. Even with an oily tube you can actually see the level. As I am trying to explain when the car runs it does not give ANY reading. Are you saying it have to give reading even when the car runs ?
 

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The ONLY time the dip stick can be checked is with the car running. Checking it with the engine stopped, without having gone through the gears as above, will give an erroneous reading.

Checking the level is done with the transmission fluid temperature at 80C, car running, transmission in P or N, and immediately after shifting through P R N D pausing 2 seconds in each gear. That is the ONLY/PROPER way to check the fluid level.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I checked after 80C. and shifting through the gears, 2 seconds in each gear. It gives me a very low reading below MIN. Now must I pour in more fluid - while the engine is running ? Because I am asking is when the car is cold, the reading shows me just above MAX but when the car is 80C - while running it gives me reading on the MIN mark.
 

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You can add fluid with the engine running or stopped, but the level can only be checked when running. This is how virtually all automatics are checked.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I poured in more oil and checked while the engine is running. Now I can see the 80c on the Max Mark. I just hope I have not waited too long. But I will not give up
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Hi people. I have changed the oil but it still have bit of problems with the reverse. I have done bit of research and dirty oil over time can cause clogged areas within the filter itself, and explained that this filter is like a maze like shape. although I actually seen the simulation on how a auto transmission works and I doubt if there might be broken parts and shifting from drive position without any issues.
 

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As I mentioned above, delayed shifts are almost always caused by worn bands or clutches. Sometimes old fluid can make problems worse, so it's a good idea to change it, but it's really not likely to help.

The filter in the AW50 cannot be easily changed. The entire transmission must be taken apart.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Okay, let us leave the filter. Worn bands or clutches - is this something that can be replaced without replacing the whole transmission or adjusted by a screw of some kind. either way taking the transmission apart to fix these and I doubt it can be the teeth on the reverse gear because the small parts from the gear would really cause trouble for the whole transmission.
 

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I don't think there are any adjustments for the AW50. Someone might know better than I do, but I think generally speaking these transmissions are considered disposable.

Be SURE you are waiting for the transmission to engage reverse before putting your foot on the throttle pedal. Revving the engine before a gear has been engaged is a lot of stress. Shift to reverse, wait for engagement, apply throttle.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I have noticed something very odd about red oil above my transmission. Just below where the power steering bottle is I noticed two holes where there is thread present to put a screw or something into it. note that my power steering bottle does not leak but what are these two holes and must there be something in them like a screw or something that came out by vibration. The first though was breather holes but those holes must be closed or is it overflowing holes. And holes is the word.
 
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