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I've searched and searched (actually the advanced search is not working for me right now) but I've done a basic search and looked all throughout the stickys and threads and don't see the answer. I know how to reset the SID warnings but will this also reset the check engine light on the gauge cluster? I have the intermittent ABS module fault and would like to reset the check engine light when the fault is not active. Thank you for your assistance.
 

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I believe disconnecting the battery for 15 minutes will do the trick, or pulling the right fuse will also do - I am not sure what # fuse
 

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Thanks!

It seems to have reset itself today. It was on for a 15 minute drive, then the car sat for about 30 minutes and then it was off. I find it interesting that the "shift up" light does not work when the check engine light is on.
 

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You may want to pull the code before you clear the CEL. Autozone can do it for free or you can carry a reader in your trunk since they are about $50.00 on eBay these days.
 

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first-saab said:
I believe disconnecting the battery for 15 minutes will do the trick, or pulling the right fuse will also do - I am not sure what # fuse
this is known as a swedish reboot ! a saab mechanic told me :lol:
 

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After searching for how to reset the check engine light on 2006 Saab 93 turbo I finally figured it out. On this car the fuse is under the hood beside the battery - #17. Obviously if there is something going on witb the car you should 6kd have it checked and the light will (should) come back on eventually if there is a problem.
 

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Thanks!

It seems to have reset itself today. It was on for a 15 minute drive, then the car sat for about 30 minutes and then it was off. I find it interesting that the "shift up" light does not work when the check engine light is on.
That works, but the failure code is still active in the computer until someone erases it with the code reader. The other poster was correct, many of the auto parts places will read it for free. Some will erase it. In the state I live in, they are supposed to check for codes for the yearly inspection, and won't approve if there are codes showing up until you show that you had the issue resolved.
It is a good idea to find the failure code that was causing it to illuminate so that the real problem can be addressed. There more than likely is a real issue going on, and wouldn't be suprised if the warning light comes back on in time. I cleared several using the method you used, it always came back on until I resolved the issue.
They can still read the code even though the light is off.
Hope that helps.
 

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I've searched and searched (actually the advanced search is not working for me right now) but I've done a basic search and looked all throughout the stickys and threads and don't see the answer. I know how to reset the SID warnings but will this also reset the check engine light on the gauge cluster? I have the intermittent ABS module fault and would like to reset the check engine light when the fault is not active. Thank you for your assistance.
The most simply way to do is to run your engine ...cut the contact go to the battery disconnect both cables, put them together, the residual current erase errors and some failures....reconnect and it's done ....easy and effective ...i have a major issue with carburetor my car stall on the highway and the only way to pursue my trip is to do the thing above..i have been doing this more than 20 times with any problems ....
 

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The most simply way to do is to run your engine ...cut the contact go to the battery disconnect both cables, put them together, the residual current erase errors and some failures....reconnect and it's done ....easy and effective ...i have a major issue with carburetor my car stall on the highway and the only way to pursue my trip is to do the thing above..i have been doing this more than 20 times with any problems ....
interesting. do you know if that erases the fault from the computer memory also?
 

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The most simply way to do is to run your engine ...cut the contact go to the battery disconnect both cables, put them together, the residual current erase errors and some failures....reconnect and it's done ....easy and effective ...i have a major issue with carburetor my car stall on the highway and the only way to pursue my trip is to do the thing above..i have been doing this more than 20 times with any problems ....
:eek: That sounds like a good way to damage the alternator, if not some expensive modules, if you are doing it while the engine is running. Or even slowing down--the alternator will still be active. I would totally not do this on a Saab. Heck, I would not have done it on my old carburated car, either.

interesting. do you know if that erases the fault from the computer memory also?
Any time you disconnect the battery (nothing more than take off the negative wire) the codes that make your Check Engine light come on are erased. I am not 100% sure if codes in systems like ABS, SRS, etc are erased this way--I know on other Saabs they are not.

There can be a whole pile of codes in the system that ODB-II readers can't read or reset. An obvious one is if SRS light is on, ODB-II reader won't tell you anything, you need a Tech II.
 

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:eek: That sounds like a good way to damage the alternator, if not some expensive modules, if you are doing it while the engine is running. Or even slowing down--the alternator will still be active. I would totally not do this on a Saab. Heck, I would not have done it on my old carburated car, either.



Any time you disconnect the battery (nothing more than take off the negative wire) the codes that make your Check Engine light come on are erased. I am not 100% sure if codes in systems like ABS, SRS, etc are erased this way--I know on other Saabs they are not.

There can be a whole pile of codes in the system that ODB-II readers can't read or reset. An obvious one is if SRS light is on, ODB-II reader won't tell you anything, you need a Tech II.
I think i have ¨maybe not be clear when i say cut the contact or you read too much faster ....the engine is dead ...understand the contact is off no way with alternator and others silly maybe happen things it works perfectly and BASTA !!
and yu're totally wrong when you said if you disconnect the wires it erase the codes.
and the srs sytem is only for saab technicians to work with for the excellent reason for avoiding dumb people to put current in and start the airbag.

and save your A** from going home on your feet
and he isn't said its SRS/GPL/GSM/ABS/GPS or whatever but the engine warning light.

I've searched and searched (actually the advanced search is not working for me right now) but I've done a basic search and looked all throughout the stickys and threads and don't see the answer. I know how to reset the SID warnings but will this also reset the check engine light on the gauge cluster? I have the intermittent ABS module fault and would like to reset the check engine light when the fault is not active. Thank you for your assistance.
 

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why wouldn't you buy an OBD2 scanner for $30 to whatever and read the code and then delete it and see if it comes back.

The code is there is for a reason, maybe something is wrong.
 

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i don't want to make a big argument about but i think it can be important.
i know for a fact that even using the hand held unit if they turn it off it still shows up until they erase it, same for the battery disconnecting method.
i know because it happened to me when i tried to have it inspected for the state i live in.

theoretically, shorting the disconnected positive wire to chassis ground shouldn't hurt, but i'm with swisssaabist. i wouldn't do it just because saabs are touchier about shorts, particularly when it comes to the motor control unit.
 

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The best way to clear any fault codes is to get the fault fixed...thats why they are generated and the safety critical ones can only be cleared with a Tech2.

Most people use mobile phones so its very easy to buy a $3 ELM327 with bluetooth and with a free app you can read and clear codes.

Personally I avoid battery disconnects as its a PITA having to reset the SID and tune/reset my aftermarket sound system etc

An OBD2 or fuse pull/battery disconnect will only clear Trionic engine codes.
The sytem will constantly check itself and if an error condition is seen then it will log as pending and if seen again n times will trigger the EML code.


Similarly if a fault isnt seen for n times then the EML will be cleared.
 

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you're right everyone except when you are on the highway with others cars nearly brushes you, waiting for an hypothetical towing at that moment you remember my trick and you said Ho he is right do what he said and miracle you finally arrived at destination, more better if you have like mine an official visit each X years and your car have an issue they refused you and you don't have millions boxes for repairing what do you do in that case... buy a cheap reader from China who's doesn't work more than 3 times or in your gigantic country doing 500 miles for finding an official dealer who's charge you maybe 60-100$just for read your codes.
so do what you want after all !!
the natural way is to fix the problem ok but i have for long time a sensor who's detect wrong water temperature this is in relation with certainly sludge in oil ( my other new problem ) it come and go randomly.
the garage change this one and it happen again, this not a problem itself but for long distance trip i need to have free spirit about new warnings so i'll do like that
 

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I don't know why people are obsessed with turning off their check engine lights. Get yourself a scanner (buy one, borrow one, go to a parts store) and read the codes. The car has something wrong with it and the warning light is there for a reason and its NOT to inconvenience you or annoy you. You're supposed to read the codes and correct the problem and the light will go out on its own after three trips in the car IF you corrected the issue.

Yes you can clear them with an OBD II scanner, your smartphone or by unhooking the battery and holding the wires together for a few minutes...but the problem will still be there and the light will just come back on.

I'm having a difficult time accepting that clearing the codes for a check engine light with the battery terminal trick is going to prevent a breakdown on the highway though...you're not correcting a fault, you're just resetting the fault counters in the computer. if you have a bad cps, you're not going to fix it by clearing the engine codes...if its going to fail on you and leave you stranded on the side of the road, then its going to do that, resetting the check engine light isn't going to prevent that from happening.

Find the problem, fix it and let the check engine light go out because the car is working properly.
 

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The best way to clear any fault codes is to get the fault fixed...thats why they are generated and the safety critical ones can only be cleared with a Tech2.

Most people use mobile phones so its very easy to buy a $3 ELM327 with bluetooth and with a free app you can read and clear codes.

Personally I avoid battery disconnects as its a PITA having to reset the SID and tune/reset my aftermarket sound system etc

An OBD2 or fuse pull/battery disconnect will only clear Trionic engine codes.
The sytem will constantly check itself and if an error condition is seen then it will log as pending and if seen again n times will trigger the EML code.


Similarly if a fault isnt seen for n times then the EML will be cleared.
I don't know why people are obsessed with turning off their check engine lights. Get yourself a scanner (buy one, borrow one, go to a parts store) and read the codes. The car has something wrong with it and the warning light is there for a reason and its NOT to inconvenience you or annoy you. You're supposed to read the codes and correct the problem and the light will go out on its own after three trips in the car IF you corrected the issue.

Yes you can clear them with an OBD II scanner, your smartphone or by unhooking the battery and holding the wires together for a few minutes...but the problem will still be there and the light will just come back on.

I'm having a difficult time accepting that clearing the codes for a check engine light with the battery terminal trick is going to prevent a breakdown on the highway though...you're not correcting a fault, you're just resetting the fault counters in the computer. if you have a bad cps, you're not going to fix it by clearing the engine codes...if its going to fail on you and leave you stranded on the side of the road, then its going to do that, resetting the check engine light isn't going to prevent that from happening.

Find the problem, fix it and let the check engine light go out because the car is working properly.
Because you don't have same issue like me on my late 2.3 se :i drove on the highway for 5-6 hours for going vacations in France with any problems left the car for a week and when we want to go back ...after some meters 500 -600 she's stall ...after a visit to a saab garage they say it's the DIC cassette ..they change this but after 100 km it's the same song ...so i need to call towing company for another reparation in a general garage ...they say it's electrical problem ...want to go she's stall again and again ...So i learn after this is the butterfly need to be changed ( cost in my country around 1200 $ but i scrap this car without change cause i refit my old Saab

  • first towing cost me 90 euros
  • the Saab garage doing wrong first time with the cassette cost 400 euros
  • second towing cost me 90 euros
  • second fixing cost me 50 euros and car doing again straight out from the garage
  • which solution i had to adopt in that case call assistance rent a car with 1000 euros charged,maybe rent an hotel room, losing an huge amount of time, going mad with that situation.
That's why I say that this solution can save you
 

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Because you don't have same issue like me on my late 2.3 se :i drove on the highway for 5-6 hours for going vacations in France with any problems left the car for a week and when we want to go back ...after some meters 500 -600 she's stall ...after a visit to a saab garage they say it's the DIC cassette ..they change this but after 100 km it's the same song ...so i need to call towing company for another reparation in a general garage ...they say it's electrical problem ...want to go she's stall again and again ...So i learn after this is the butterfly need to be changed ( cost in my country around 1200 $ but i scrap this car without change cause i refit my old Saab

  • first towing cost me 90 euros
  • the Saab garage doing wrong first time with the cassette cost 400 euros
  • second towing cost me 90 euros
  • second fixing cost me 50 euros and car doing again straight out from the garage
  • which solution i had to adopt in that case call assistance rent a car with 1000 euros charged,maybe rent an hotel room, losing an huge amount of time, going mad with that situation.
That's why I say that this solution can save you
The solution is to disconnect the battery to erase engine lights? Will that make the problems go away?

Much better to read them and deal with them when maybe it's still a minor problem. Reading the code on the throttle body might mean you get it cleaned and no more problems. Waiting until it fails means getting it rebuilt, or getting a working one. Much more expensive.

There is no way I would own an ODB-II car without an ODB-II reader. A good reader cost me $200 Canadian (hundred Euro maybe) when I bought my NG900 and it's been working fine ever since when I need it.

Now, on the 9-5, a Tech II is really useful. I currently have one sitting in the back seat. ;ol;
 
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