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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK, so I've read several descriptions of this repair on the board, and every one of them used a different method for removing the pin from the swivel.

It seems that most preferred is chisel and hammer.
The next favorite was a simple hard smack with a mallet or heavy hammer.
There were several that liked the pickle fork.
Finally, some folks used a joint tool as suggested by WIS and the repair manuals.

So, dear readers, what say you? (I guess that I could do a poll.....)
 

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I took the steering knuckle off of my son's 99 this past weekend to get a new bearing pressed into it and hit the tie rod end a couple of times with a BFH (Big xxx Hammer) a couple of times and it popped right out. The threads don't come all the way to the end of the tapered part so you can hit it pretty hard without worrying about damaging the threads.
 

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Did mine last night and used a Pittman arm puller. $15 at the auto store and the tie rod end came out with little effort in a minute or so. The Hammer works 90% of the time, but is usually more work, and the pickle forks f-up your tie rod ends too often.

If you don't want to get fancy and buy the $15 tool, you can borrow it from Vato Zone, Advance, etc...

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ac...tman-arms/_/N-264w?itemIdentifier=555631_0_0_

$10 at autozone.
 

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I used a pickle fork and it was a piece of cake.
+1 if you are putting on new ones it is the best one to use imo.

Are you doing ball joints and sway bar links at the same time? Also after you do your tie rod ends your front end needs to be aligned. So if you do all of them at once then you kill 2 birds with 2 stone.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
+1 if you are putting on new ones it is the best one to use imo.

Are you doing ball joints and sway bar links at the same time? Also after you do your tie rod ends your front end needs to be aligned. So if you do all of them at once then you kill 2 birds with 2 stone.
Already replaced the sway bar links thinking that they were the clanking that I heard (one was really worn out). I was wrong. Tie rod ends seem to be the culprit.

Ball joints seem to be OK. Good suggestion, however.
 

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If have more than 75k on your car I would definitely do ball joints and a 4 wheel alignment.

Have fun, this is what it's all about.;ol;
Already replaced the sway bar links thinking that they were the clanking that I heard (one was really worn out). I was wrong. Tie rod ends seem to be the culprit.

Ball joints seem to be OK. Good suggestion, however.
 

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Does anyone know the nut size at the end of the tie rod? And what size wrench fits over the tie rod to hold it in place?
 

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Does anyone know the nut size at the end of the tie rod? And what size wrench fits over the tie rod to hold it in place?[/QUOTE

On the old one, I think it's a 14 or 15mm. I just used two massive adjustables and heated the crap out of it. It was trash anyway, so I wasn't too worried about marring the finish. I think a vise grips may have even come into play at some point.

On the new one, I think it may depend on the brand. I think on the Moogs that I put on it was a 17mm, but I can't be sure.

OK, so that response was of little help...:roll:
 

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Does anyone know the nut size at the end of the tie rod? And what size wrench fits over the tie rod to hold it in place?
when i changed mine I used a 12mm to hold the tie rod in place and used a 15mm on the nut end :lol:. I replaced mine with Deeza parts and it was a 13mm to hold it in place and a 17mm on the nut side
 

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Whatever you do, don't buy this tie rod/pitman arm puller and expect it to work. It's not big enough.

I changed my tie rod ends about six weeks ago. I used a 3-jaw puller and both of them popped out with little effort.
That's a pretty tiny Pitman arm puller. There's a much larger one that works perfectly on our cars. As mentioned before, most auto parts stores rent one.
 
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