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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm replacing the tire rod boot may should only do this boot but unfortunately for me the Outer CV joint boot to the drive axle is bad also.

Is that more of a 2 man job? because if you remove the lower and upper ball joint to remove the steering swivel member from the drive axle then looks like you need extra pair hands to either hold the steering swivel and one holding drive axle while you tie the swivel up by wire as Bentley manual suggests. Fig 5 774-3

At one point they seem to suggest to remove the rotor and brake caliper , Fig 5 still shows them attached?

In other words are you able to replace this boot by yourself? hee hee

And does the hold side drive shaft have to come out to get this one boot on ( the inner boot and inner universal joint )?
 

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It's a one man job.

For me it has been easier to remove the entire half shaft and change the boot on the bench. Just reach down from the top and loosen the hose clamp in the driver.

It is much easier to remove the caliper and hang it out of the way. Remove both ball joints and the tie rod end you can take the whole bearing housing and half shaft to the bench.

With that stuff out of the way you can tackle the rack boot. You will have to remove the tie rod end so count turns or measure where it was or you will need at least a toe alignment, but since you will be removing the ball joints may be best to have it checked anyway.
 

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You can actually do this yourself. No problem. Just put the car up and then remove the upper and lower ball joints from the control arms, but leave the upper ball joint wedged a little ways into the upper arm. Trust me, the ball joints won't WANT to come out of the arms (you'll probably have to hammer them out) so it's easy to leave the upper in. Remember also to use a spacer between the arm and the hole it comes out of, so the spring won't be putting tension on the assembly. Then with the lower ball joint out, just crank the steering wheel a bit to one side (make the side you're working on's tie rod longer (steer away from the side you're working on) to give the brake hose a bit of slack, and lift the swivel member up, and you should have enough clearance to get the axle out.

This long description makes it seem harder than it actually is. One thing that helps is to have an extra jack around to support the swivel member instead of having a guy hold it up.

OH and if you're replacing the rack boot, you'll have the tie rod off anyway, and you might not even need to take off the upper ball joint at all! I'd try with just lower ball joint and tie rod off first. You definitely don't need to remove the brake disc and caliper.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
You all are some Excellent advisors, I think I can do it following you alls suggestions!!!

Also is it better to do like the book and not Reuse the Nuts on the bottom of the tie rod end that goes through the swivel and the ball joints? And the Drive Shaft nut also?

Or do you all reuse yours?
 

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It is an easier job if you do not remove both ball joints. Do a search [I am having some trouble with the site search right now] and Jim Mesthene has a proceedure that works like a charm. I did this about 3 months ago. Basically you remove the axle nut [on the ground] then remove the top ball joint bolts after you shim the A Arm [suspension block]. Then pull the axle from the disc and manipulate the axle out. Just enough clearance to do this and you avoid having to remove the lower joint and caliper. Have a pan under the inner driver...it will pour out and make a mess.

I avoid re-using axle nuts and the like...besides, they are not expensive and it's good insurance. But that's me ;)

Found the proceedure [Use It!]

Install Suspension Block
Remove 2 bolts from Upper Ball Joint
Remove Axle Nut
Pull Upper Ball Joint out of Upper Control Arm
Pull C/V Joint out of the Hub
Remove Joint and Boot
Clean & Grease Joint
Fit new Boot
Reassemble
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
It is an easier job if you do not remove both ball joints. Do a search [I am having some trouble with the site search right now] and Jim Mesthene has a proceedure that works like a charm. I did this about 3 months ago. Basically you remove the axle nut [on the ground] then remove the top ball joint bolts after you shim the A Arm [suspension block]. Then pull the axle from the disc and manipulate the axle out. Just enough clearance to do this and you avoid having to remove the lower joint and caliper. Have a pan under the inner driver...it will pour out and make a mess.

I avoid re-using axle nuts and the like...besides, they are not expensive and it's good insurance. But that's me ;)

Found the proceedure [Use It!]

Install Suspension Block
Remove 2 bolts from Upper Ball Joint
Remove Axle Nut
Pull Upper Ball Joint out of Upper Control Arm
Pull C/V Joint out of the Hub
Remove Joint and Boot
Clean & Grease Joint
Fit new Boot
Reassemble
And this is without having to remove the entire side of the drive shaft correct?

Anybody know what size the Axle Nut is?
 

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And this is without having to remove the entire side of the drive shaft correct?

Anybody know what size the Axle Nut is?
I removed the assembly and did it on the bench...others do it on the car. You must remove the CV Joint to replace the boot. Getting it off on the car can be difficult if the joint is stuck on the axle. Remove the circlip and see if it comes off easily, if not you may have to remove the axle. Not a big deal and it's a good time to inspect the inner driver and bearings. May as well do it now.

The axle nut on mine is 32mm.

If you do a search you will find a lot of info.
 

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I just did mine and it's a one man job. Jim Mesthene's writeup of the procedure is slightly different from my Haynes but makes more sense.
In retrospect it would have been easier to replace the whole axle than just the boot but I saved $20.
 

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It may be a 1 man job....

but I would have appreciated a second pair of hands when I changed the CV boots.
As noted, best done if whole driveshaft is off the car as the CV obviously needs to be removed off the shaft........problem I had was that the joints did NOT come off the shafts as one would seem to read about. Mine didn't just slide off...........they were pretty much an interference fit between spline and joint - very tight.

My fight to edge the joint/s off the shafts was very nerve racking and tedious. Co-coordinating the cir-clip pliers, holding the heavy duty blade screwdriver AND then belting the screwdriver with the hammer to nudge the joint off it's tight bind on the spline............

A heavy duty bench vice is strongly advisable.
 

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I removed the assembly and did it on the bench...others do it on the car. You must remove the CV Joint to replace the boot. Getting it off on the car can be difficult if the joint is stuck on the axle. Remove the circlip and see if it comes off easily, if not you may have to remove the axle. Not a big deal and it's a good time to inspect the inner driver and bearings. May as well do it now.

The axle nut on mine is 32mm.

If you do a search you will find a lot of info.
The spanner size is 32 mm for the axle nut but that's not the thread spec. I'm not actually sure what the thread spec is.

I usually leave the top ball joint in place so the steering member has something to hang on (and it makes it easier to swivel the whole lot out of the way of the splined shaft of the outer CV joint), and disconnect the steering member from the steering tie-rod end as well.

Craig.
 
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