[ggervais92]

Hello all,

I am replacing the rear passenger caliper on my 2000 9-3. It's different than calipers I have replaced on other cars because it doesn't have a mounting bracket and slide pins, just a piston on either side of the rotor.

Also, it doesn't have a flex hose connecting to it, just the steel line connected directly.

Does anyone know of any write ups or videos on how to do the swap? I don't want to mess up the brake line and have to replace that as well.

Thanks!

 

[Borntoroll]

You will definitely need brake line wrench. DO NOT use regular open wrench or you will have to replace the line

Seems like pretty straight forward job.

 

[ggervais92]

so does the nut just spin independent of the line? I wont have to worry about the line twisting or anything?

 

[Borntoroll]

Independent... must be

 

[EdT]

In theory, the nut will turn and the line will detach.

In practice, if it's rusty back there, the line may twist and break.

First off, you want to soak the nut with a good penetrating oil like PB Blaster (not WD40).

Anyway, why are you replacing the caliper?

 

[FC Saab]

Rear calipers common rust up and seize on the 9-3. I've replaced several.

Remove the pins
Remove the spring clips
Pry on the pads to push the piston in, remove pads.
Loosen the 2 caliper bolts
Prep the new caliper, bleeder, anti squeak, anti seize
Loosen the brake line.
Get ready and no stopping until new caliper is in and brake line installed.
Remove brake line, gently push aside. Cap or cover to stop fluid flow.
Remove caliper bolts
Remove caliper
Install caliper
Install 2 caliper bolts, threaded only to hold weight
Install and finger tighten brake line
Torque 2 caliper bolts
Tighten brake line
Install pads, spring clips, pins
Bleed caliper

 

[EdT]

Rear calipers common rust up and seize on the 9-3. I've replaced several.

The shop assured me that the rear calipers on my 900 were seized.

It took a couple of rounds of cleaning out rust and filing rusty parts smooth, and they remain on the car, which has now gone 370,000 km (230,000 mi) and 20 years in the worst of the salt belt.

The pads do seize against the caliper surfaces, but that can be fixed without pulling the calipers, you just need a selection of narrow files.

 

[BobSaabit]

In theory, the nut will turn and the line will detach.

In practice, if it's rusty back there, the line may twist and break.

If there's any question about the nut spinning. I will loosen just a little, like a 1/8th turn, then tighten, then repeat, going a little further, tighten a little less, etc, until the fitting seems to be moving freely on the line. Works most of the time... but if it's too badly corroded, it's going to break no matter what you do.

 

[ggervais92]

The outside piston on the caliper seized, and is pretty badly corroded. Its actually crumbling a little bit. My concern was pretty much limited to the brake line breaking while attempting to take it off.

I noticed that rather than having the flex line attached to the caliper, there is a flexible portion of line at the pivot point of the rear axle.

Does anyone know if there is an aftermarket brake line that would run the ~18" that attaches to the caliper, but is flexible? maybe a braided stainless steel line or something?

Also, I appreciate all the help. you guys have answered everything I wanted to know. Gotta love the SAAB community.

 

[jakejm79]

https://genuinesaab.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=56_57_81&products_id=282

But they will only run from the end of the flex line to the caliper (basically replacing the hard line that is in there).

You could easily get something custom made.

I'd crack the line nut free just a bit, then remove the caliper and rotate the caliper while holding the nut still, this should allow you to remove the caliper without worrying about a nut rusted to the line moving and causing damage, one the caliper is removed you should have plenty of access to lube and work the nut nice and free on the line.