[cleeland]

Not sure how far you've gotten with this, but, yes, you'll either have to spin the caliper or go to the other end of the hose. I've always just spun the caliper.

A flare-nut wrench set might be a good investment for you. They're usually used for the bleed screw's nut, but considering how rusty the rest of the things are you might find the additional contact on the brake hose's nut to be helpful.

You should not experience fluid shooting out when you remove the hose. There will be a drip. You should catch it in a pan and avoid contact with painted surfaces as brake fluid likes to eat paint. Capture some of it in a clear container--it should not be dark, and my guess is that it will be. If it's dark, you should plan on a fluid change/flush soon.

Don't have both calipers completely free and then try to compress one; the other may pop out.

When installing new caliper, you will want a brake bleed vacuum pump (autozone has these in the loaner tool arsenal) to bleed air. Use new clean brake fluid from a sealed bottle.

 

[cleeland]

Green fluid makes me wonder if it might be something like a CHF or Pentosin fluid. US fluid manufacturers tend to sell brake fluid that looks pretty clear, but some euro manufacturers offer fluid of the same spec but in different colors, presumably to facilitate knowing when new fluid is fully flushed through the lines. What color is the stuff in the reservoir under the hood?

As far as parts suppliers go, FCP is a good source, though their selection has dwindled in the last few years for saabs. Rock has a large selection, but they make mistakes, too. Esaabparts is well-priced for OE or oe-level parts and I've never had an issue. My preferred local source for parts is Carquest/Advance Auto parts. Some things are just easier to deal with locally--heavy stuff, stuff with cores, etc.