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not to bad. remove front passenger wheel.

remove fender lining. just afew bolts and snaps off.

loosen the tension on the belt by putting a 1/2 socket in the tensioner pulley and pulling back to loosen the belt

remove crankshaft bolt. gonna need an imapct or breaker bar for this bolt.

(when you re-install and remove crankshaft pulley bolt you have have to lock the flywheel. i used a pry bar and stuck it in between the teeth on the flywheel. had to get help from a friend for this step.)

remove c clip with needle nose pliers.

replace seal.

re-install. i may have forgotten a step. been awhile since i did this. but hope this helps alittle. its a pretty easy job.
 

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If it was me I would do the PCV#6 update first and see if it stops wheeping. Also IMO the PCV#6 update is one of the main things that need to be done. Do a search on it and you will see what I mean. Good luck
 

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not to change subject, because i also need to do this seal as well, but is that also how you change the drive belt? mine has seen better days...
 

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RE PCV 6 :

no i havent.
If you took your car to a dealer with a complaint of oil leaks, the VERY FIRST thing they do is install the latest PCV update to reduce crankcase pressure.

You should too.

Are you sure your leak isn't from the head gasket leaking & oil running down the timing cover behind the crank seal? That's way more common. Especially on a 2001 engine that's known to have problems with loose head bolts wanting retorquing.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
i am pretty sure it is the seal, i busted a serpintine belt, and it got caught in the pullies, and busted the seal i believe.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
the leak is so intense that it spills about a quart in 5-10 minutes. leaking to the point that the new belt slips right off. it is a much bigger issue than just doing a PVC #6 to fix it. although i will take your advice and look into it after i replace the seal. thank you for your advice guys. :)
 

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Well with this info provided I would think it was the front main seal. So next time just give us everything you know and then we can all give you a better idea of what to do. Good luck.
 

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Saab PCV upgrade 9-3, 9-5

On Saab 9-5 and 9-3 models years 99-03 Saab is suggesting a PCV(Posite Crankcase Ventilation) upgrade. If you are having troubles with oil leaks and/or oil backing up into your turbo causing smoke to billow out of your exhaust pipe this may be what your Saab needs. Regardless of your year or model if you have an oil leak you should check the function of your PCV system. This can be done by checking that all hoses and passages are clear and that the check valve still works as a one way valve.
The need for a crankcase ventilation system comes in play due to piston blow-by. During each power stroke gases escape past the piston rings and into the crankcase. These gases cause high pressure that can push oil out of seals and gaskets. In the old days engines had what they called a road draft tube to vent excessive crankcase pressure. This was a very simple system just a small tube running from the crankcase and down behind the engine opening under the car to the atmosphere. As air flowed by the tube it created a negative pressure pulling the blow-by out of the engine.
In the 60's Smog control came into play and the PCV system was created. This system draws the crankcase blow-by back into the air intake and re-burns these gases keeping them from the atmosphere. This system is comprised of 2 hoses and a check valve. One large hose from the valve cover to the air cleaner and one small vacuum hose from the valve cover to the intake with a check valve in-between on Turbo models (non turbo has no check valve). This is the most basic of systems that you may find on older Saab models. Today it is basically the same but there is a few more hoses and a oil separator box connecting to the turbo.
Current Service Information from Saab.
Saab has determined that the oil separator box on 9-3 and 9-5's PCV system has inadequate flow. This is responsible for oil leaks at the timing cover area and smoke from the tail pipe during start up. It is also recommended to change the hoses and check valve at the same time to be sure all is in proper shape.


(This article is meant to educate a consumer,or as a guideline for professionals. You can cause serious damage to your vehicle and/or cause yourself injury. Only those qualified should attempt repairs. I do my best to assure that the above info is correct but take no responsibility for any damages incurred.)

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Discussion Starter #16
i replaced the seal and now it runs again without an oil leak. thank you to everyone for your tips/help/references. :D i am so happy to have my car back! yay!
 

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crank shaft seal leaking alot .

Updated pvc 6# on the car still have oil leaking around the crank shaft seal. Anybody got any suggestion.
 

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Get a Saab electronic service manual, cdlled a WIS [WORKSHOP INFORMATION SYSTEM] Google it and download it for free. After you go through the step by step then ask this site any questions.

Bottom line it is a little annoying to old timers IMHO to ask for all the details here....do a little of your own homework before askink.

You can also download EPC electronics parts cata log.......good information for part numbers and how things go together.
 
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