[kfink]

Just bought 2000 Saab 9-3, 5-speed, 185hp engine. Anyhow, car has 75K miles, and will soon need replacement of front/rear brake pads/rotors. I am fairly mechanically-inclined, and have done other repairs on past cars. Does anyone know of a site that has detailed, step-by-step outline (photos would be great!) of how to replace brakes in this model Saab? Thanks for your help!!

Also, is there any easy way to disable the "SHIFT UP" dash light?

 

[earthworm]

Just bought 2000 Saab 9-3, 5-speed, HP engine. Anyhow, car has 75K miles, and will soon need replacement of front/rear brake pads/rotors. I am fairly mechanically-inclined, and have done other repairs on past cars. Does anyone know of a site that has detailed, step-by-step outline (photos would be great!) of how to replace brakes in this model Saab? Thanks for your help!!

Also, is there any easy way to disable the "SHIFT UP" dash light?

There must be quite a quantity of threads on this subject.
I just replace the worn down pads - that how it was done in the 60s and 70s..Pad life was much shorter then..
But, with high mileage, the rotors do wear, so it pays to know the numbers and to measure.
eEuroParts has some good brands, as does NAPA and others.
Also change the fluid at the same time, if necessary.
Do you have the service history ??

As to the light, I do not know if it can be re-programmed via the software..
I guess some simply extricate the lamp; others ignore it; the smart ones use it as they see fit..I had one of these silly things on the Golf Diesel, it was mechanically fed, easy to unfunction...

 

[stromer]

To get rid of that light you can take out the gauge cluster and pull the bulb. I just lived to ignore mine though.

 

[kfink]

There must be quite a quantity of threads on this subject.
I just replace the worn down pads - that how it was done in the 60s and 70s..Pad life was much shorter then..
But, with high mileage, the rotors do wear, so it pays to know the numbers and to measure.
eEuroParts has some good brands, as does NAPA and others.
Also change the fluid at the same time, if necessary.
Do you have the service history ??

As to the light, I do not know if it can be re-programmed via the software..
I guess some simply extricate the lamp; others ignore it; the smart ones use it as they see fit..I had one of these silly things on the Golf Diesel, it was mechanically fed, easy to unfunction...

Thanks for your help~ The car came with the book stamped with interval servicing, but no actual service records. The last owner told me, however, that the brakes have never been done, and that they have about 5-10,000 miles left in them. I did find a link with photos outlining brake job for the 9-5, which, I assume, should be equivalent in terms of the steps/process. Let me know if you know otherwise... Thanks again!

 

[20Ted]

Have a look at Eric's site

Your best bet, though, would be to go ahead and get a copy of the HAynes manual for the NG900. No - it's not for a 9-3, but still basically the same vehicle. For example, my 1998 model is a mix of NG900 and 9-3 (many of the 'upgraded' features of the 9-3: brakes, clutch, etc.) and the Haynes manual gets me through most of the time!

 

[Jeremy R.]

will soon need replacement of front/rear brake pads/rotors.

You might want to check the rears and see how they are for yourself. At only 75,000 miles, you shouldn't need rear pads or rotors. The fronts probably do need to be replaced. If you go with pads that aren't so hard on the rotors, you might even get more than 75,000 miles out of your new rotors.

 

[euroMANN93]

Be sure to do the job right the first time. Dont cut any corners or work hastily. I got my front and rear brakes replaced at about 120,000 and had to go back because they were squeaking so often. Kind of a hassle that could have been avoided. So just make sure you are careful with your repairs!

 

[earthworm]

You might want to check the rears and see how they are for yourself. At only 75,000 miles, you shouldn't need rear pads or rotors. The fronts probably do need to be replaced. If you go with pads that aren't so hard on the rotors, you might even get more than 75,000 miles out of your new rotors.

But at 7 to 10 years, 75K miles , with all the sodium chloride that some states love to use, there could be damage back there, so everything should be checked on a lift by an expert on an annual basis..
And I have no lift...

 

[Munki]

To get rid of that light you can take out the gauge cluster and pull the bulb.

Instructions on how to remove the cluster can be found here.

 

[sethsev7n]

I just disabled the light today actually. You dont have to take apart the assembly, just cut the wire going out of the ECU. The wire is listed on eric's site, but heres what i did:

Take out the glovebox, and pull away the carpet. The ECU is on the side of the footwell on the drivers side. All the wires come out on the bottom of the ecu. I had to unscrew some little black box to make room for the arm to swing down to detach the whole wire thing. Get a magnifying glass, the numbers are very tiny. Right around number 56 there is a yellow/blue wire. Cut that one. (Supposed to be wire #55 but I didnt see that number). What happened to me is i just yanked on the wire and I pulled it out. So i guess you could do that too and if you wanted the light back anytime you would just stick it back in.

Anyways good luck with it.